probability, did these people now save my life, who, a few hours before,
were going to take it from me for throwing away a shell.

In two days after I joined my companions again, but don't remember that
there was the least joy shewn on either side at meeting. At this place was
a very large canoe belonging to our guide, which would have required at
least six men to the oar to have made any kind of expedition; instead of
that, there was only Campbell and myself, besides the Indian, his companion
or servant, to row, the cacique himself never touching an oar, but sitting,
with his wife all the time much at his ease. Mr Hamilton continued in the
same canoe he had been in all along, and which still was to keep us company
some way further, though many of the others had left us. This was dreadful
hard work to such poor starved wretches as we were, to be slaving at the
oar all day long in such a heavy boat; and this inhuman fellow would never
give us a scrap to eat, excepting when he took so much seal that he could
not contrive to carry it all away with him, which happened very seldom.

After working like galley slaves all day, towards night, when we landed,
instead of taking any rest, Mr Campbell and I were sometimes obliged to go
miles along shore to get a few shell-fish; and just as we have made a
little fire in order to dress them, he has commanded us into the boat
again, and kept us rowing the whole night without ever landing. It is
impossible for me to describe the miserable state we were reduced to: Our
bodies were so emaciated, that we hardly appeared the figures of men.

It has often happened to me in the coldest night, both in hail and snow,
where we had nothing but an open beach to lay down upon, in order to
procure a little rest, that I have been obliged to pull off the few rags I
had on, as it was impossible to get a moment's sleep with them on for the
vermin that swarmed about them, though I used as often as I had time, to
take my clothes off, and putting them upon a large stone, beat them with
another, in hopes of killing hundreds at once, for it was endless work to
pick them off. What we suffered from this was ten times worse even than
hunger. But we were clean in comparison to Captain Cheap, for I could
compare his body to nothing but an ant-hill, with thousands of those
insects crawling over it; for he was now past attempting to rid himself in
the least from this torment, as he had quite lost himself, not recollecting
our names that were about him, or even his own. His beard was as long as a
hermit's; that and his face being covered with train-oil and dirt, from
having long accustomed himself to sleep upon a bag, by the way of pillow,
in which he kept the pieces of stinking seal. This prudent method he took
to prevent our getting at it whilst he slept. His legs were as big as
millposts, though his body appeared to be nothing but skin and bone.

One day we fell in with about forty Indians, who came down to the beach we
landed on, curiously painted. Our cacique seemed to understand but little
of their language, and it sounded to us very different from what we had
heard before. However, they made us comprehend that a ship had been upon
the coast not far from where we then were, and that she had a red flag:
This we understood some time after to have been the Anne pink, whose
adventures are particularly related in Lord Anson's Voyage; and we passed
through the very harbour she had lain in.

As there was but one small canoe that intended to accompany us any longer,
and that in which Mr Hamilton had been to this time intended to proceed no
further to the northward, our cacique proposed to him to come into our
canoe, which he refused, as the insolence of this fellow was to him
insupportable; he therefore rather chose to remain where he was, till
chance should throw in his way some other means of getting forward; so here
we left him, and it was some months before we saw him again.




CHAPTER VII.


We land on the Island of Chiloe.--To our great Joy we at length discover
Something having the Appearance of a House.--Kindness of the Natives.--We
are delivered to the Custody of a Spanish Guard.--Transactions with the
Spanish Residents.--Arrival at Chaco.--Manners of the Inhabitants.


We now got on, by very slow degrees, to the northward; and as the
difficulties and hardships we daily went through would only be a repetition
of those already mentioned, I shall say no more, but that at last we
reached an island about thirty leagues to the southward of Chiloe. Here we
remained two days for a favourable opportunity to cross the bay, the very
thoughts of which seemed to frighten our cacique out of his senses; and
indeed there was great reason for his apprehensions, for there ran a most
dreadful hollow sea, dangerous indeed for any open boat whatever, but a
thousand times more for such a crazy vessel as we were in. He at length
mustered up resolution enough to attempt it, first having crossed himself
for an hour together, and made a kind of lug-sail out of the bits of
blankets they wore about them, sewed together with split supple-jacks. We
then put off, and a terrible passage we had. The bottom plank of the canoe
was split, which opened upon every sea; and the water continually rushing
over the gunnel, I may say that we were in a manner full the whole way
over, though all hands were employed in bailing, without ceasing a moment.

As we drew near the shore, the cacique was eager to land, having been
terrified to that degree with this run, that if it had not been for us,
every soul must have perished; for he had very near got in amongst the
breakers, where the sea drove with such violence upon the rocks, that not
even an Indian could have escaped, especially as it was in the night. We
kept off till we got into smooth water, and landed upon the island of
Chiloe, though in a part of it that was not inhabited. Here we staid all
the next day, in a very heavy snow, to recover ourselves a little after our
fatigue; but the cold was so excessive, having neither shoe nor stocking,
we thought we should have lost our feet; and Captain Cheap was so ill, that
if he had had but a few leagues further to have gone without relief, he
could not have held out. It pleased God now that our sufferings, in a great
measure, were drawing to an end.

What things our cacique had brought with him from the wreck, he here buried
under ground, in order to conceal them from the Spaniards, who would not
have left him a rusty nail if they had known of it. Towards evening we set
off again; and about nine the same night, to our great joy, we observed
something that had the appearance of a house, It belonged to an
acquaintance of our cacique; and as he was possessed of my fowling-piece,
and we had preserved about one charge of powder, he made us load it for
him, and desired we would shew him how to discharge it; upon which,
standing up, and holding his head from it as far as possible, he fired, and
fell back into the bottom of the canoe. The Indians belonging to the house,
not in the least used to fire-arms, ran out and hid themselves in the
woods. But after some time, one of them bolder than the rest, got upon a
hill and hollowed to us, asking who and what we were. Our cacique now made
himself known, and they presently came down to the boat, bringing with them
some fish and plenty of potatoes. This was the most comfortable meal we had
made for many long months; and as soon as this was over, we rowed about two
miles farther to a little village, where we landed. Here our cacique
presently awaked all the inhabitants by the noise he made, and obliged one
of them to open his door to us, and immediately to make a large fire, for
the weather was very severe, this being the month of June, the depth of
winter in this part of the world. The Indians now flocked thick about us,
and seemed to have great compassion for us, as our cacique related to them
what part be knew of our history. They knew not what countrymen we were,
nor could our guide inform them; for he had often asked us if we were
French, Dutch, or English, the only nations he had ever heard of besides
the Spaniards. We always answered we were from Grande Bretagne, which he
could make nothing of; for we were afraid, if he knew us to be English, as
he had heard that nation was at war with the Spaniards, he never would have
conducted us to Chiloe.

These good-natured compassionate creatures seemed to vie with each other
who should take the most care of us. They made a bed of sheep-skins close
to the fire for Captain Cheap, and laid him upon it; and indeed, had it not
been for the kind assistance he now met with, he could not have survived
three days longer. Though it was now about midnight, they went out and
killed a sheep, of which they made broth, and baked a large cake of barley-
meal. Any body may imagine what a treat this was to wretches who had not
tasted a bit of bread, or any wholesome diet, for such a length of time.
After we could eat no longer, we went to sleep about the fire, which the
Indians took care to keep up. In the morning, the women came from far and
near, each bringing with her something. Almost every one had a pipkin in
her hand, containing either fowls or mutton made into broth, potatoes,
eggs, or other eatables. We fell to work as if we had eat nothing in the
night, and employed ourselves so for the best part of the day.

In the evening, the men filled our house, bringing with them some jars of a
liquor they called chica, made of barley-meal, and not very unlike our oat-
ale in taste, which will intoxicate those who drink a sufficient quantity
of it, for a little has no effect. As soon as the drink was out, a fresh
supply of victuals was brought in; and in this manner we passed the whole
time we remained with these hospitable Indians. They are a strong well-made
people, extremely well-featured, both men and women, and vastly neat in
their persons. The men's dress is called by them a puncho, which is a
square piece of cloth, generally in stripes of different colours, with a
slit in the middle of it, wide enough to let their heads through, so that
it hangs on their shoulders, half of it falling before and the other behind
them: Under this they wear a short kind of flannel shirt without sleeves or
neck. They have wide-knee'd breeches, something like the Dutch seamen, and
on their legs a sort of knit buskins without any feet to them, but never
any shoes. Their hair is always combed very smooth, and tied very tight up
in a great bunch close to the neck; some wear a very neat hat of their own
making, and others go without. The women wear a shift like the men's
shirts, without sleeves, and over it a square piece of cloth, which they
fasten before with a large silver pin, and a petticoat of different
stripes. They take as much care of their hair as the men; and both have
always a kind of fillet bound very tight about the fore-head, and made fast
behind. In short, these people are as cleanly as the several savage nations
we had met with before were beastly.

Upon our first coming here, they had dispatched a messenger to the Spanish
corregidore at Castro, a town a considerable distance from hence, to inform
him of our arrival. At the end of three days, this man returned with an
order to the chief caciques of these Indians we were amongst, to carry us
directly to a certain place, where there would be a party of soldiers to
receive us. These poor people now seemed to be under great concern for us,
hearing by the messenger the preparations that were making to receive us;
for they stand in vast dread of the Spanish soldiery. They were very
desirous of knowing what countrymen we were. We told them we were English,
and at that time at war with the Spaniards, upon which they appeared fonder
of us than ever; and I verily believe, if they durst, would have concealed
us amongst them, lest we should come to any harm. They are so far from
being in the Spanish interest, that they detest the very name of a
Spaniard. And, indeed, I am not surprised at it, for they are kept under
such subjection, and such a laborious slavery, by mere dint of hard usage
and punishments, that it appears to me the most absurd thing in the world
that the Spaniards should rely upon these people for assistance upon any
emergency.

We embarked in the evening, and it was night before we got to the place
where we were to be delivered up to the Spanish guard. We were met by three
or four officers and a number of soldiers, all with their spados drawn, who
surrounded us as if they had the most formidable enemy to take charge of,
instead of three poor helpless wretches, who, notwithstanding the good
living we had met with amongst these kind Indians, could hardly support
ourselves. They carried us to the top of a hill, and there put us under a
shed, for it consisted of a thatched roof without any sides or walls, being
quite open; and here we were to lie upon the cold ground. All sorts of
people now came to stare at us as a sight; but the Indian women never came
empty-handed; they always brought with them either fowls, mutton, or some
kind of provision to us, so that we lived well enough. However, we found a
very sensible difference between the treatment we had met with from the
Indians and what we now experienced from the Spaniards. With the former, we
were quite at liberty to do as we pleased; but here, if we only went ten
yards to attempt at getting rid of some of the vermin that devoured us, we
had two soldiers with drawn spados to attend us.

About the third day, a Jesuit from Castro came to see us, not from a motive
of compassion, but from a report spread by our Indian cacique, that we had
some things of great value about us. Having by chance seen Captain Cheap
pull out a gold repeating watch, the first thing the good father did was to
lug out of his pocket a bottle of brandy and give us a dram, in order to
open our hearts. He then came roundly to the point, asking us if we had
saved no watches or rings. Captain Cheap declared he had nothing, never
suspecting that the Indian had seen his watch, having, as he thought,
always taken great care to conceal it from him; but knowing that Campbell
had a silver watch, which had been the property of our surgeon, he desired
him to make it a present to the Jesuit, telling him at the same time, that
as these people had great power and authority, it might be of service to us
hereafter. This Campbell very unwillingly did, and received from the
father, not long after, a pitiful present, not a quarter part of the value
of the rim of the watch. We understood afterwards that this had come to the
governor's ears, who was highly offended at it, as thinking that if any
thing of that sort had been to be had, it was his due, and did not spare
the Jesuits in the least upon the occasion.

Soon after this, the officer of the guard informed us there was an order
come to carry us to Castro. In the evening, we were conducted to the water-
side, and put into a large periago, and there were several more to attend
us, full of soldiers. About eight o'clock at night we were off the town.
Their boats all laid upon their oars, and there was a great deal of
ceremony used in hailing and asking for the keys, as if it had been a
regular fortification. After some time, we landed, but could see neither
gates nor walk, nor any thing that had the appearance of a garrison. As we
walked up a steep hill into the town, the way was lined with men, who had
broomsticks upon their shoulders instead of muskets, and a lighted match in
their hands. When we came to the corregidore's house, we found it full of
people. He was an old man, very tall, with a long cloak on, a tye-wig
without any curl, and a spado of immense length by his aide. He received us
in great state and form; but as we had no interpreter, we understood little
or nothing of the questions he asked us. He ordered a table to be spread
for us with cold ham and fowls, which we three only sat down to, and in a
short time dispatched more than ten men with common appetites would have
done. It is amazing, that our eating to that excess we had done, from the
time we first got among these kind Indians, had not killed us; we were
never satisfied, and used to take all opportunities for some months after,
of filling our pockets when we were not seen, that we might get up two or
three times in the night to cram ourselves. Captain Cheap used to declare,
that he was quite ashamed of himself.

After supper, the corregidore carried us to the Jesuits college, attended
by the soldiers and all the rabble of the town. This was intended at
present for our prison, till orders were received from the governor, who
resided at Chaco, above thirty leagues from this place. When we got to the
college, the corregidore desired the father provincial, as they stiled him,
or head of the Jesuits here, to find out what religion we were of, or
whether we had any or not. He then retired, the gates were shut, and we
were conducted to a cell. We found in it something like beds spread on the
floor, and an old ragged shirt apiece, but clean, which was of infinite
service to us; nor did eating at first give me half the satisfaction this
treasure of an old shirt did. Though this college was large, there were but
four Jesuits in it, nor were there any more of that order upon the island.

In the morning, Captain Cheap was sent for by the father provincial: Their
conversation was carried on in Latin, perhaps not the best on either side;
however, they made shift to understand one another. When he returned, he
told us the good fathers were still harping upon what things of value we
might have saved and concealed about us; and that if we had any thing of
that sort, we could not do better than let them have it. Religion seemed to
be quite out of the question at present; but a day or two after, the
corregidore being informed that we were heretics, he desired these Jesuits
would convert us; but one of them told him it was a mere joke to attempt
it, as we could have no inducement upon that island to change our religion;
but that when we got to Chili, in such a delightful country as that was,
where there was nothing but diversions and amusements, we should be
converted fast enough. We kept close to our cell till the bell rang for
dinner, when we were conducted into a hall, where there was one table for
the fathers, and another for us. After a very long Latin prayer, we sat
down and eat what was put before us, without a single word passing at
either table. As soon as we had finished, there was another long prayer,
which, however, did not appear so tedious as the first, and then we retired
to our cell again. In this manner we passed eight days without ever
stirring out, all which time one might have imagined one's self out of the
world; for excepting the bell for dinner, a silence reigned throughout the
whole, as if the place had been uninhabited.

A little before dark, on the eighth evening, we heard a violent knocking at
the gate, which was no sooner opened than there entered a young officer
booted and spurred, who acquainted the fathers that he was sent by the
governor to conduct us to Chaco. This young man was the governor's son, by
which means he obtained a command next in authority, upon this island, to
his father. He ought to have been kept at school, for he was a vain empty
coxcomb, much disliked by the people upon the island. After taking leave of
the Jesuits, who, I imagine, were not sorry to be rid of us, after finding
their expectations baulked, we set out, having about thirty soldiers on
horseback to attend us. We rode about eight miles that night, when we came
to an Estancia, or farm-house, belonging to an old lady, who had two
handsome daughters. Here we were very well entertained, and the good old
lady seemed to have great compassion on us. She asked the governor's son if
he thought his father would have any objection to my passing a month with
her at her farm. As she was a person of rank in this island, he said he
would acquaint his father with her request, and made no doubt but he would
grant it. I observed our soldiers, when they came into the house, had none
of them any shoes on, but wore buskins, like the Indians, without any feet
to them. They all had monstrous great spurs, some of silver and others of
copper, which made a rattling when they walked, like chains. They were all
stout strong-looking men, as the Spaniards, natives of the island, in
general are. After a good supper, we had sheep-skins laid near the fire for
us to sleep on.

Early in the morning we mounted again, and after riding some miles across
the country, we came to the water-side, where we found several periagoes
waiting for us, with some officers in them. Most of the soldiers dismounted
and embarked with us, few only being sent round with the horses. It was
three days before we arrived at Chaco, as the tides between this island and
the main are so rapid that no boat can stem them. The same precaution was
taken here as at Castro; we passed through a whole lane of soldiers, armed
as I mentioned those to have been before, excepting a few who really had
match-locks, the only fire-arms they have here. The soldiers, upon our
journey, had given a pompous account of el Palacio del Rey, or the king's
palace, as they stiled the governor's house, and therefore we expected to
see something very magnificent; but it was nothing better than a large
thatched barn, partitioned off into several rooms. The governor was sitting
at a large table covered with a piece of red serge, having all the
principal officers about him. After some time, he made us sit down,
attempting to converse with us by his linguist, who was a stupid old
fellow, that could neither talk English nor Spanish, but said he was born
in England, had resided above forty years in that country, and having
formerly been a buccaneer, was taken by the Spaniards near Panama. The
governor kept us to supper, and then we were conducted across the court to
our apartment, which was a place that had served to keep the fire-wood for
the governor's kitchen; however, as it was dry over head, we thought
ourselves extremely well lodged. There was a soldier placed at the door
with a drawn spado in his hand, to prevent our stirring out, which was
quite unnecessary, as we knew not where to go if we had been at liberty.
One of these soldiers took a fancy to my ragged grieko, which had still
some thousands about it, and in exchange gave me an old poncho, the sort of
garment with a hole in the middle to put one's head through, as above
related to be worn by the Indians; and for the little bit of my waistcoat
that remained, he gave me a pair of breeches. I now should have thought
myself very handsomely equipped, if I had had but another shirt.

The next day, about noon, the governor sent for us, and we dined at his
table, after which we returned to our lodging, where we were never alone,
for every body was curious to see us. We passed about a week in this
manner, when the centinel was taken off, and we were allowed to look about
us a little, though not to go out of the palace, as they were pleased to
call it. We dined every day with the governor, but were not very fond of
his fast days, which succeeded each other too quickly. I contrived to make
friends with his steward and cook, by which means I always carried my
pockets full to my apartment, where I passed my time very agreeably. Soon
after, we had leave to walk about the town, or go wherever we pleased.
Every house was open to us; and though it was but an hour after we had
dined, they always spread a table, thinking we never could eat enough after
what we had suffered; and we were much of the same opinion. They are, in
general, a charitable, good sort of people, but very ignorant, and governed
by their priests, who make them believe just what they please.

The Indian language is chiefly spoken here, even by the Spaniards one
amongst another; and they say they think it a finer language than their
own. The women have fine complexions, and many of them are very handsome;
they have good voices, and can strum a little upon the guitar; but they
have an ugly custom of smoking tobacco, which is a very scarce commodity
here, and therefore is looked upon as a great treat when they meet at one
another's houses. The lady of the house comes in with a large wooden pipe
crammed with tobacco, and after taking two or three hearty whiffs, she
holds her head under her cloak lest any of the smoke should escape, and
then swallows it; some time after, you see it coming out of her nose and
ears. She then hands the pipe to the next lady, who does the same, till it
has gone through the whole company. Their houses are but very mean, as will
be easily imagined by what I have said of the governor's. They make their
fire in the middle of their rooms, but have no chimneys; there is a small
hole at each end of the roof to let the smoke out.

It is only the better sort of people that eat bread made of wheat, as they
grow but very little here, and they have no mills to grind it; but then
they have great plenty of the finest potatoes in the world: These are
always roasted in the ashes, then scraped, and served up at meals instead
of bread. They breed abundance of swine, as they supply both Chili and Peru
with hams. They are in no want of sheep, but are not overstocked with cows,
owing, in a great measure, to their own indolence in not clearing away the
woods, which if they would be at the pains to do, they might have
sufficient pasture. Their trade consists in hams, hogs-lard, which is used
throughout all South America instead of butter; cedar-plank, which the
Indians are continually employed in cutting quite to the foot of the
Cordilleras, little carved boxes, which the Spanish ladies use to put their
work in, carpets, quilts, and punchos neatly embroidered all round; for
these, both in Chili and Peru, are used by the people of the first fashion,
as well as the inferior sort, by way of riding-dress, and are esteemed to
be much more convenient for a horseman than any kind of coat whatever.

They have what they call an annual ship from Lima, as they never expect
more than one in the year; though sometimes it happens that two have come,
and at other times they have been two or three years without any. When this
happens, they are greatly distressed, as this ship brings them baize,
cloth, linens, hats, ribbons, tobacco, sugar, brandy, and wine, but this
latter article is chiefly for the use of the churches: Matte, an herb from
Paraguay, used over all South America instead of tea, is also a necessary
article. This ship's cargo is chiefly consigned to the Jesuits, who have
more Indians employed for them than all the rest of the inhabitants
together, and of course engross almost the whole trade. There is no money
current in this island. If any person wants a few yards of linen, a little
sugar, tobacco, or any other thing brought from Peru, he gives so many
cedar-planks, hams, or punchos, in exchange. Some time after we had been
here, a snow arrived in the harbour from Lima, which occasioned great joy
amongst the inhabitants, as they had no ship the year before, from the
alarm Lord Anson had given upon the coast.

This was not the annual vessel, but one of those that I mentioned before
which come unexpectedly. The captain of her was an old man, well known upon
the island, who had traded here once in two or three years for more than
thirty years past. He had a remarkably large head, and therefore was
commonly known by a nick-name they had given him of Cabuco de Toro, or
Bull's-head. He had not been here a week, before he came to the governor,
and told him, with a most melancholy countenance, that he had not slept a
wink since he came into the harbour, as the governor was pleased to allow
three English prisoners liberty to walk about instead of confining them,
and that he expected every moment they would board his vessel and carry her
away: This he said when he had above thirty hands aboard. The governor
assured him he would be answerable for us, and that he might sleep in
quiet; though at the same time he could not help laughing at the man, as
all the people in the town did. These assurances did not satisfy the
captain; he used the utmost dispatch in disposing of his cargo, and put to
sea again, not thinking himself safe till he had lost sight of the island.
It was about three months after this that Mr Hamilton was brought in by a
party that the governor had sent to the southward on purpose to fetch him.
He was in a wretched condition upon his first arrival, but soon recovered
with the good living he found here.

It is usual for the governor to make a tour every year through the several
districts belonging to his government: On this occasion he took us with
him. The first place he visited was Carelmapo, on the main, and from thence
to Castro. At these places he holds a kind of court, all the chief caciques
meeting him, and informing him of what has passed since his last visit, and
receiving fresh orders for the year to come. At Castro we had the same
liberty we enjoyed at Chaco, and visited every body. It seemed they had
forgot all the ceremony used upon our first landing here, which was with an
intent to make us believe it was strongly fortified; for now they let us
see plainly that they had neither fort nor gun. At Chaco they had a little
earthen fort, with a small ditch palisadoed round it, and a few old
honeycombed guns without carriages, and which do not defend the harbour in
the least. Whilst we were at Castro, the old lady (at whose house we lay
the first night upon leaving the Jesuits college) sent to the governor, and
begged I might be allowed to come to her for a few weeks; this was granted,
and accordingly I went and passed about three weeks with her very happily,
as she seemed to be as fond of me as if I had been her own son. She was
very unwilling to part with me again, but as the governor was soon to
return to Chaca, he sent for me, and I left my benefactress with regret.




CHAPTER VIII.


Adventure with the Niece of an old Priest at Castro.--Superstition of the
People.--The Lima Ship arrives, in which we depart for Valparaiso, January
1743.--Arrival at and Treatment there.--Journey to Chili.--Arrival at St
Jago.--Generous Conduct of a Scotch Physician.--Description of the City and
of the People.


Amongst the houses we visited at Castro, there was one belonging to an old
priest, who was esteemed one of the richest persons upon the island. He had
a niece, of whom he was extremely fond, and who was to inherit all he
possessed. He had taken a great deal of pains with her education, and she
was reckoned one of the most accomplished young ladies of Chiloe. Her
person was good, though she could not be called a regular beauty. This
young lady did me the honour to take more notice of me than I deserved, and
proposed to her uncle to convert me, and afterwards begged his consent to
marry me. As the old man doated upon her, he readily agreed to it; and
accordingly, on the next visit I made him, acquainted me with the young
lady's proposal, and his approbation of it, taking me at the same time into
a room where there were several chests and boxes, which he unlocked, first
shewing me what a number of fine clothes his niece had, and then his own
wardrobe, which he said should be mine at his death. Amongst other things,
he produced a piece of linen, which he said should immediately be made up
into shirts for me. I own this last article was a great temptation to me;
however, I had the resolution to withstand it, and made the best excuses I
could for not accepting of the honour they intended me; for by this time I
could speak Spanish well enough to make myself understood.

Amongst other Indians who had come to meet the governor here, there were
some caciques of those Indians who had treated us so kindly at our first
landing upon Chiloe. One of these, a young man, had been guilty of some
offence, and was put in irons, and threatened to be more severely punished.
We could not learn his crime, or whether the governor did not do it in a
great measure to shew us his power over these Indian chiefs; however, we
were under great concern for this young man, who had been extremely kind to
us, and begged Captain Cheap to intercede with the governor for him. This
he did, and the cacique was released; the governor acquainted him at the
same time, with great warmth, that it was to us only he owed it, or
otherwise he would have made a severe example of him. The young man seemed
to have been in no dread of farther punishment, as I believe he felt all a
man could do from the indignity of being put in irons in the public square,
before all his brother caciques and many hundreds of other Indians. I
thought this was not a very politic step of the governor, as the cacique
came after to Captain Cheap to thank him for his goodness, and in all
probability would remember the English for some time after; and not only
he, but all the other caciques who had been witnesses of it, and who seemed
to feel, if possible, even more than the young man himself did.

We now returned to Chaco, and the governor told us, when the annual ship
came, which they expected in December, we should be sent in her to Chili.
We felt several earthquakes while we were here. One day, as I happened to
be upon a visit at a house where I was very well acquainted, an Indian came
in, who lived at many leagues distance from this town, and who had made
this journey in order to purchase some little trifles he wanted; amongst
other things, he had bought some prints of saints. Very proud of these, he
produced them, and put them into the hands of the women, who very devoutly
first crossed themselves with them, and afterwards kissed them; then gave
them to me, saying at the same time, they supposed such a heretic as I was
would refuse to kiss them. They were right in their conjectures; I returned
them to the Indian without going through that ceremony. At that very
instant there happened a violent shock of an earthquake, which they imputed
entirely to the anger of the saints; and all quitted the house as fast as
they could, lest it should fall upon their heads. For my part, I made the
best of my way home for fear of being knocked on the head when out of the
house by the rabble, who looked on me as the cause of all this mischief,
and did not return to that house again till I thought this affair was
forgotten.

Here is a very good harbour; but the entrance is very dangerous for those
who are unacquainted with it, as the tides are so extremely rapid, and
there are sunken rocks in the midchannel. The island is above seventy
leagues round, and the body of it lies in about 40 deg. 20 min. south, and
is the most southern settlement the Spaniards have in these seas. Their
summer is of no long duration, and most of the year round they have hard
gales of wind and much rain. Opposite the island, upon the Cordilleras,
there is a volcano, which at times burns with great fury, and is subject to
violent eruptions. One of these alarmed the whole island whilst we were
there; it sounded in the night like great guns. In the morning, the
governor mounted his horse, and rode backwards and forwards from his house
to the earthen fort, saying it was the English coming in, but that he would
give them a warm reception; meaning, I suppose, that he would have left
them a good fire in his house, for I am certain he would soon have been in
the woods if he had seen any thing like an English ship coming in.

Women of the first fashion here seldom wear shoes or stockings in the
house, but only keep them to wear upon particular occasions. I have often
seen them coming to the church, which stood opposite to the governor's
house, bare-legged, walking through mud and water, and at the church-door
put on their shoes and stockings, and pull them off again when they came
out. Though they are in general handsome, and have good complexions, yet
many of them paint in so ridiculous a manner, that it is impossible to help
laughing in their faces when you see them.

The governor we found here was a native of Chili. The government, which is
appointed by that presidency, is for three years, which appears to be a
long banishment to them, as their appointments are but small, though they
make the most of it. The towns of Castro and Chaco consist only of
scattered houses, without a regular street, though both have their places
or squares, as almost all Spanish towns have. Chaco is very thinly
inhabited, excepting at the time the Lima ship arrives; then they flock
thither from all parts of the island to purchase what little matters they
want, and as soon as that is done, retire to their estancias or farms.

It was about the middle of December this ship came in, and the second of
January, 1742-3, we embarked on board of her. She was bound to Valparaiso.
We got out to sea with some difficulty, having been driven by the strength
of the tide very near those sunken rocks mentioned before. We found a great
sea without; and as the ship was as deep as any laden collier, her decks
were continually well washed. She was a fine vessel, of about two hundred
and fifty-tons. The timber the ships of this country are built of is
excellent, as they last a prodigious time; for they assured us that the
vessel we were then in had been built above forty years. The captain was a
Spaniard, and knew not the least of sea affairs; the second captain, or
master, the boatswain, and his mate, were all three Frenchmen, and very
good seamen; the pilot was a Mulatto, and all the rest of the crew were
Indians and negroes. The latter were all slaves and stout fellows, but
never suffered to go aloft, lest they should fall overboard, and the owners
lose so much money by it. The Indians were active, brisk men, and very good
seamen for that climate. We had on board the head of the Jesuits as
passenger. He and Captain Cheap were admitted into the great cabin, and
messed with the captain and his chaplain. As for us, we were obliged to
rough it the whole passage, that is, when we were tired we lay down upon
the quarter-deck in the open air, and slept as well as we could; but that
was nothing to us, who had been used to fare so much worse. We lived well,
eating with the master and boatswain, who always had their meals upon the
quarter-deck, and drank brandy at them as we do small-beer, and all the
rest of the day were smoking segars.

The fifth day we made the land four or five leagues to the southward of
Valparaiso, and soon after falling calm, a great western swell hurried us
in very fast towards the shore. We dropped the lead several times, but had
such deep water we could not anchor. They were all much alarmed when the
Jesuit came out of the cabin for the first time, having been sea-sick the
whole passage. As soon as he was informed of the danger, he went back into
the cabin and brought out the image of some saint, which he desired might
be hung up in the mizen-shrouds; which being done, he kept threatening it,
that if we had not a breeze of wind soon, he would certainly throw it
overboard. Soon after, we had a little wind from off the land, when the
Jesuit carried the image back with an air of great triumph, saying he was
certain that we should not be without wind long, though he had given
himself over for lost some time before it came. Next morning we anchored in
the port of Valparaiso. In that part which is opposite to the fort, ships
lay so near the land, that they have generally three anchors ashore, as
there is eight or ten fathom close to it; and the flaws come off the hills
with such violence, that if it was not for this method of securing them
they would be blown out. This is only in summer-time, for in the winter
months no ships ever attempt to come in here; the northerly winds then
prevail, and drive in such a sea that they must soon be ashore.

The Spanish captain waited upon the governor of the fort, and informed him
that he had four English prisoners on board. We were ordered ashore in the
afternoon, and were received as we got upon the beach by a file of soldiers
with their bayonets fixed, who surrounded us, and then marched up to the
fort, attended by a numerous mob. We were carried before the governor,
whose house was full of officers. He was blind, asked a few questions, and
then spoke of nothing but the strength of the garrison he commanded, and
desired to know if we had observed that all the lower battery was brass
guns. We were immediately after, by his order, put into the condemned hole.
There was nothing but four bare walls, excepting a heap of lime that filled
one third of it, and made the place swarm with fleas in such a manner that
we were presently covered with them. Some of Admiral Pizarro's soldiers
were here in garrison that had been landed from his ships at Buenos Ayres,
as he could not get round Cape Horn. A centinel's box was placed at our
door, and we had always a soldier with his bayonet fixed to prevent our
stirring out. The curiosity of the people was such, that our prison was
continually full from morning till night, by which the soldiers made a
pretty penny, as they took money from every person for the sight.

In a few days, Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were ordered up to St Jago, as
they were known to be officers by having saved their commissions; but Mr
Campbell and I were to continue in prison. Captain Cheap expressed great
concern when he left us; he told me it was what he had all along dreaded,
that they would separate us when we got into this country; but he assured
me, if he was permitted to speak to the president, that he would never
leave soliciting him till he obtained a grant for me to be sent up to him.
No sooner were they gone than we fared very badly. A common soldier, who
was ordered to provide for us by the governor, brought us each, once a day,
a few potatoes mixed with hot water. The other soldiers of the garrison, as
well as the people who flocked to see us, took notice of it, and told the
soldier it was cruel to treat us in that manner. His answer was, "The
governor allows me but half a real a day for each of these men; what can I
do? It is he that is to blame; I am shocked every time I bring them this
scanty pittance, though even that could not be provided for the money he
gives them."

We from this time lived much better, and the soldier brought us even wine
and fruit. We took it for granted that our case had been represented to the
governor, and that he had increased our pay. As to the first, we were right
in our conjectures; it had been mentioned to him, that it was impossible we
could subsist on what he allowed; and his answer to it was, that we might
starve, for we should have no more from him, and that he believed he should
never be repaid even that. This charitable speech of the governor was made
known everywhere, and now almost every one who came to see us gave us
something; even the mule-drivers would take out their tobacco-pouch, in
which they kept their money, and give us half a real. All this we would
have given to our soldier, but he never would receive a farthing from us,
telling us we might still want it; and the whole time we were there, which
was some weeks, he laid aside half his daily pay to supply us, though he
had a wife and six children, and never could have the least hope or
expectation of any recompence. However, two years after this I had the
singular pleasure of making him some return, when my circumstances were
much better than his.

One night, when we were locked up, there happened a dreadful shock of an
earthquake. We expected every moment the roof and walls of our prison to
fall in upon us and crush us to pieces; and what added to the horror of it
was, the noise of chains and imprecations in the next prison which joined
to ours, where there were near seventy felons heavily loaded with irons,
who are kept here to work upon the fortifications, as in other countries
they are condemned to the gallies. A few days after this, we were told an
order was come from the president to the governor to send us up to St Jago,
which is ninety miles from Valparaiso, and is the capital of Chili. There
were at this time several ships in the port from Lima delivering their
cargoes, so that almost every day there were large droves of mules going up
to St Jago with the goods. The governor sent for one of the master
carriers, and ordered him to take us up with him. The man asked him how he
was to be paid our expences, as he should be five days upon the road. The
governor told him he might get that as he could, for he would not advance
him a single farthing.

After taking leave of our friendly soldier, who even now brought us some
little matters to carry with us, we set out, and travelled about fourteen
miles the first day, and lay at night in the open field, which is always
the custom of these people, stopping where there is plenty of pasture and
good water for the mules. The next morning we passed over a high mountain
called Zapata; and then crossing a large plain, we passed another mountain,
very difficult for the mules, who each carried two heavy bales: There were
above an hundred in this drove. The mules of Chili are the finest in the
world; and though they are continually upon the road, and have nothing but
what they pick up at night, they are as fat and sleek as high-fed horses in
England. The fourth night we lay upon a plain in sight of St Jago, and not
above four leagues from it.

The next day, as we moved towards the city, our master-carrier, who was
naturally well-disposed, and had been very kind to us all the way upon the
road, advised me, very seriously, not to think of remaining in St Jago,
where he said there was nothing but extravagance, vice, and folly, but to
proceed on with them as mule-driver, which, he said, I should soon be very
expert at; and that they led an innocent and happy life, far preferable to
any enjoyment such a great city as that before us could afford. I thanked
him, and told him I was very much obliged to him, but that I would try the
city first, and if I did not like it, I would accept of the offer he was so
good as to make me. The thing that gave him this high opinion of me was,
that as he had been so civil to us, I was very officious in assisting to
drive in those mules that strayed from the rest upon those large plains we
passed over; and this I thought was the least I could do towards making
some returns for the obligations we were under to him.

When we got into St Jago, the carrier delivered us to the captain of the
guard at the palace gate, and he soon after introduced us to the president,
Don Joseph Manso, who received us very civilly, and then sent us to the
house where Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were. We found them extremely
well lodged at the house of a Scotch physician, whose name was Don Patricio
Gedd. This gentleman had been a long time in this city, and was greatly
esteemed by the Spaniards, as well for his abilities in his profession as
his humane disposition. He no sooner heard that there were four English
prisoners arrived in that country, than he waited upon the president, and
begged they might be lodged at his house. This was granted, and had we been
his own brothers we could not have met with a more friendly reception; and
during two years that we were with him, his constant study was to make
every thing as agreeable to us as possible. We were greatly distressed to
think of the expence he was at upon our account, but it was in vain for us
to argue with him about it. In short, to sum up his character in a few
words, there never was a man of more extensive humanity.

Two or three days after our arrival, the president sent Mr Campbell and me
an invitation to dine with him, where we were to meet Admiral Pizarro and
all his officers. This was a cruel stroke upon us, as we had not any
clothes fit to appear in, and dared not refuse the invitation. The next
day, a Spanish officer belonging to Admiral Pizarro's squadron, whose name
was Don Manuel de Guiror, came and made us an offer of two thousand
dollars. This generous Spaniard made this offer without any view of ever
being repaid, but purely out of a compassionate motive of relieving us in
our present distress. We returned him all the acknowledgments his uncommon
generous behaviour merited, and accepted of six hundred dollars only, upon
his receiving our draught for that sum upon the English consul at Lisbon.
We now got ourselves decently clothed after the Spanish fashion, and as we
were upon our parole, we went out where we pleased to divert ourselves.

This city is situated in about 33 degrees and 30 minutes south latitude, at
the west foot of the immense chain of mountains called the Cordilleras. It
stands on a most beautiful plain of above thirty leagues extent. It was
founded by Don Pedro de Baldivia, the conqueror of Chili. The plan of it
was marked out by him, in squares, like Lima; and almost every house
belonging to people of any fashion has a large court before it, with great
gates, and a garden behind. There is a little rivulet, neatly faced with
stone, runs through every street, by which they can cool the streets or
water their gardens when they please. The whole town is extremely well