13,144 sheep.
Micheltorena's decree in 1843 restored the temporalities of the Mission
to the padres. This was one of the two Missions, Santa Inés being the
other, that was able to provide a moderate subsistence out of the wreck
left by secularization. On the 5th of December, 1845, Pico rented San
Buenaventura to José Arnaz and Marcisco Botello for $1630 a year. There
are no statistics of the value of the property after 1842, though in
April of 1843 Padre Jimeno reports 2382 cattle, 529 horses, 2299 sheep,
220 mules and 18 asses, 1032 fruit trees and 11,907 vines. In November
of that same year the bishop appointed Presbyter, Resales, since which
time the Mission has been the regular parish church of the city.

In 1893 the Mission church was renovated out of all its historic
association and value by Father Rubio, who had a good-natured but
fearfully destructive zeal for the "restoration" of the old Missions.
Almost everything has been modernized. The fine old pulpit, one of the
richest treasures of the Mission, was there several years ago; but when,
in 1904, I inquired of the then pastor where it was, I was curtly
informed that he neither knew nor cared. All the outbuildings have been
demolished and removed in order to make way for the modern spirit of
commercialism which in the last decade has struck the town. It is now an
ordinary church, with little but its history to redeem it from the look
of smug modernity which is the curse of the present age.

Before leaving San Buenaventura it may be interesting to note that a few
years ago I was asked about two "wooden bells" which were said to have
been hung in the tower at this Mission. I deemed the question absurd,
but on one of my visits found one of these bells in a storeroom under
the altar, and another still hanging in the belfry. By whom, or why,
these dummy bells were made, I have not been able to discover.



CHAPTER XIX

SANTA BARBARA

After the founding of San Buenaventura. Governor Neve arrived from San
Gabriel, inspected the new site, and expressed himself as pleased with
all that had been done. A few days later he, with Padre Serra, and a
number of soldiers and officers, started up the coast, and, selecting a
site known to the Indians after the name of their chief, _Yanonalit_,
established the presidio of Santa Barbara. Yanonalit was very friendly,
and as he had authority over thirteen rancherías he was able to help
matters along easily. This was April 21, 1782.

When Serra came to the establishment of the presidio, he expected also
to found the Mission, and great was his disappointment. This undoubtedly
hastened his death, which occurred August 28, 1782.

[Illustration: MISSION SANTA BARBARA.]

[Illustration: MISSION SANTA BARBARA FROM THE HILLSIDE.]

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF MISSION SANTA BARBARA.]

It was not until two years later that Neve's successor, Fages,
authorized Serra's successor, Lasuen, to proceed. Even then it was
feared that he would demand adherence to new conditions which were to
the effect that the padres should not have control over the temporal
affairs of the Indians; but, as the guardian of the college had
positively refused to send missionaries for the new establishments,
unless they were founded on the old lines, Fages tacitly agreed. On
December 4, therefore, the cross was raised on the site called
_Taynayan_ by the Indians and _Pedragoso_ by the Spaniards, and formal
possession taken, though the first mass was not said until Fages's
arrival on the 16th. Lasuen was assisted by Padres Antonio Paterna and
Cristobal Oramas. Father Zephyrin has written a very interesting account
of Santa Barbara Mission, some of which is as follows:

"The work of erecting the necessary buildings began early in 1787. With
a number of Indians, who had first to be initiated into the mysteries of
house construction, Fathers Paterna and Oramas built a dwelling for
themselves together with a chapel. These were followed by a house for
the servants, who were male Indians, a granary, carpenter shop, and
quarters for girls and unmarried young women.

"In succeeding years other structures arose on the rocky height as the
converts increased and industries were introduced. At the end of 1807
the Indian village, which had sprung up just southwest of the main
building, consisted of 252 separate adobe dwellings harboring as many
Indian families. The present Mission building, with its fine corridor,
was completed about the close of the eighteenth century. The fountain in
front arose in 1808. It furnished the water for the great basin just
below, which served for the general laundry purposes of the Indian
village. The water was led through earthen pipes from the reservoir
north of the church, which to this day furnishes Santa Barbara with
water. It was built in 1806. To obtain the precious liquid from the
mountains, a very strong dam was built across 'Pedragoso' creek about
two miles back of the Mission. It is still in good condition. Then there
were various structures scattered far and near for the different trades,
since everything that was used in the way of clothing and food had to be
raised or manufactured at the Mission.

"The chapel grew too small within a year from the time it was dedicated,
Sunday, May 21, 1787. It was therefore enlarged in 1788, but by the year
1792 this, also, proved too small. Converts were coming in rapidly. The
old structure was then taken down, and a magnificent edifice took its
place in 1793. Its size was 25 by 125 feet. There were three small
chapels on each side, like the two that are attached to the present
church. An earthquake, which occurred on Monday, December 21, 1812,
damaged this adobe building to such an extent that it had to be taken
down. On its site rose the splendid structure, which is still the
admiration of the traveler. Padre Antonio Ripoll superintended the work,
which continued through five years, from 1815 to 1820. It was dedicated
on the 10th of September, 1820. The walls, which are six feet thick,
consist of irregular sandstone blocks, and are further strengthened by
solid stone buttresses measuring nine by nine feet. The towers to a
height of thirty feet are a solid mass of stone and cement twenty feet
square. A narrow passage leads through one of these to the top, where
the old bells still call the faithful to service as of yore. Doubtless
the Santa Barbara Mission church is the most solid structure of its
kind in California. It is 165 feet long, forty feet wide and thirty feet
high on the outside. Like the monastery, the church is roofed with tiles
which were manufactured at the Mission by the Indians."

The report for 1800 is full of interest. It recounts the activity in
building, tells of the death of Padre Paterna, who died in 1793, and was
followed by Estévan Tapis (afterwards padre presidente), and says that
1237 natives have been baptized, and that the Mission now owns 2492
horses and cattle, and 5615 sheep. Sixty neophytes are engaged in
weaving and allied tasks; the carpenter of the presidio is engaged at a
dollar a day to teach the neophytes his trade; and a corporal is
teaching them tanning at $150 a year.

In 1803 the population was the highest the Mission ever reached, with
1792. In May, 1808, a determined effort lasting nine days was made to
rid the region of ground squirrels, and about a thousand were killed.

The earthquakes of 1812 alarmed the people and damaged the buildings at
Santa Barbara as elsewhere. The sea was much disturbed, and new springs
of asphaltum were formed, great cracks opened in the mountains, and the
population fled all buildings and lived in the open air.

On the sixth of December, in the same year, the arrival of Bouchard,
"the pirate," gave them a new shock of terror. The padres had already
been warned to send all their valuables to Santa Inés, and the women
and children were to proceed thither on the first warning of an expected
attack. But Bouchard made no attack. He merely wanted to exchange
"prisoners." He played a pretty trick on the Santa Barbara comandante in
negotiating for such exchange, and then, when the hour of delivery came,
it was found he had but one prisoner,--a poor drunken wretch whom the
authorities would have been glad to get rid of at any price.

In 1824 the Indian revolt, which is fully treated in the chapters on
Santa Inés and Purísima, reached Santa Barbara. While Padre Ripoll was
absent at the presidio, the neophytes armed themselves and worked
themselves into a frenzy. They claimed that they were in danger from the
Santa Inés rebels unless they joined the revolt, though they promised to
do no harm if only the soldiers were sent and kept away. Accordingly
Ripoll gave an order for the guard to withdraw, but the Indians insisted
that the soldiers leave their weapons. Two refused, whereupon they we're
savagely attacked and wounded. This so incensed Guerra that he marched
up from the presidio in full force, and a fight of several hours ensued,
the Indians shooting with guns and arrows from behind the pillars of the
corridors. Two Indians were killed and three wounded, and four of the
soldiers were wounded. When Guerra retired to the presidio, the Indians
stole all the clothing and other portable property they could carry
(carefully respecting everything, however, belonging to the church), and
fled to the hills. That same afternoon the troops returned and, despite
the padre's protest, sacked the Indians' houses and killed all the
stragglers they found, regardless of their guilt or innocence. The
Indians refused to return, and retreated further over the mountains to
the recesses of the Tulares. Here they were joined by escaped neophytes
from San Fernando and other Missions. The alarm spread to San
Buenaventura and San Gabriel, but few, if any, Indians ran away. In the
meantime the revolt was quelled at Santa Inés and Purísima, as
elsewhere recorded.

On the strength of reports that he heard, Governor Argüello recalled the
Monterey troops; but this appeared to be a mistake, for, immediately,
Guerra of Santa Barbara sent eighty men over to San Emigdio, where, on
April 9 and 11, severe conflicts took place, with four Indians killed,
and wounded on both sides. A wind and dust storm arising, the troops
returned to Santa Barbara.

In May the governor again took action, sending Captain Portilla with a
force of 130 men. The prefect Sarría and Padre Ripoll went along to make
as peaceable terms as possible, and a message which Sarría sent on ahead
doubtless led the insurgents to sue for peace. They said they were
heartily sorry for their actions and were anxious to return to Mission
life, but hesitated about laying down their arms for fear of summary
punishment. The gentiles still fomented trouble by working on the fears
of the neophytes, but owing to Argüello's granting a general pardon,
they were finally, in June, induced to return, and the revolt was at
an end.

After these troubles, however, the Mission declined rapidly in
prosperity. Though the buildings under Padre Ripoll were in excellent
condition, and the manufacturing industries were well kept up,
everything else suffered.

In 1817 a girls' school for whites was started at the presidio of Santa
Barbara, but nothing further is known of it. Several years later a
school was opened, and Diego Fernandez received $15 a month as its
teacher. But Governor Echeandía ordered that, as not a single scholar
attended, this expense be discontinued; yet he required the comandante
to compel parents to send their children to school.

In 1833 Presidente Duran, discussing with Governor Figueroa the question
of secularization, deprecated too sudden action, and suggested a partial
and experimental change at some of the oldest Missions, Santa Barbara
among the number.

When the decree from Mexico, came, however, this was one of the first
ten Missions to be affected thereby. Anastasio Carrillo was appointed
comisionado, and acted from September, 1833. His inventory in March,
1834, showed credits, $14,953; buildings, $22,936; furniture, tools,
goods in storehouse, vineyards, orchards, corrals, and animals,
$19,590; church, $16,000; sacristy, $1500; church ornaments, etc.,
$4576; library, $152; ranches, $30,961; total, $113,960, with a debt to
be deducted of $1000.

The statistics from 1786 to 1834, the whole period of the Mission's
history, show that there were 5679 baptisms, 1524 marriages, 4046
deaths. The largest population was 1792 in 1803. The largest number of
cattle was 5200 in 1809, of sheep, 11,066 in 1804.

Here, as elsewhere, the comisionados found serious fault with the pueblo
grog-shops. In 1837 Carrillo reports that he has broken up a place where
Manuel Gonzalez sold liquor to the Indians, and he calls upon the
comandante to suppress other places. In March, 1838, he complains that
the troops are killing the Mission cattle, but is told that General
Castro had authorized the officers to kill all the cattle needed without
asking permission. When the Visitador Hartwell was here in 1839 he found
Carrillo's successor Cota an unfit man, and so reported him. He finally
suspended him, and the Indians became more contented and industrious
under Padre Duran's supervision, though the latter refused to undertake
the temporal management of affairs.

Micheltorena's decree of 1843 affected Santa Barbara, in that it was
ordered returned to the control of the padres; but in the following year
Padre Duran reported that it had the greatest difficulty in supporting
its 287 souls. Pico's decree in 1845 retained the principal building for
the bishop and padres; but all the rest and the orchards and lands were
to be rented, which was accordingly done December 5, to Nicholas A. Den
and Daniel Hill for $1200 per year, the property being valued at
$20,288. Padre Duran was growing old, and the Indians were becoming more
careless and improvident; so, when Pico wrote him to give up the Mission
lands and property to the renters, he did so willingly, though he stated
that the estate owed him $1000 for money he had advanced for the use of
the Indians. The Indians were to receive one third of the rental, but
there is no record of a cent of it ever getting into their hands. June
10, 1846, Pico sold the Mission to Richard S. Den for $7500, though the
lessees seem to have kept possession until about the end of 1848. The
land commission confirmed Den's title, though the evidences are that it
was annulled in later litigation. Padre Duran died here early in 1846, a
month after Bishop Diego. Padre Gonzalez Rubio still remained for almost
thirty years longer to become the last of the old missionaries.

In 1853 a petition was presented to Rome, and Santa Barbara was erected
into a Hospice, as the beginning of an Apostolic College for the
education of Franciscan novitiates who are to go forth, wherever sent,
as missionaries. St. Anthony's College, the modern building near by, was
founded by the energy of Father Peter Wallischeck. It is for the
education of aspirants to the Franciscan Order. There are now
thirty-five students.

[Illustration: DOOR TO CEMETERY, SANTA BARBARA.]

[Illustration: MISSION BELL AT SANTA BARBARA.]

[Illustration: THE SACRISTY WALL, GARDEN AND TOWERS, MISSION SANTA
BARBARA.]

[Illustration: FACHADA OF MISSION LA PURÍSIMA CONCEPCIÓN, NEAR LOMPOC,
CALIF]

Five of the early missionaries and three of later date are buried in the
crypt, under the floor of the sanctuary, in front of the high altar; and
Bishop Diego rests under the floor at the right-hand side of the altar.

The small cemetery, which is walled in and entered from the church, is
said to contain the bodies of 4000 Indians, as well as a number of
whites. In the northeast corner is the vault in which are buried the
members of the Franciscan community.

In the bell tower are two old bells made in 1818, as is evidenced by
their inscriptions, which read alike, as follows: "Manvel Vargas me
fecit ano d. 1818 Mision de Santa Barbara De la nveba
California"--"Manuel Vargas made me Anno Domini 1818. Mission of Santa
Barbara of New California." The first bell is fastened to its beam with
rawhide thongs; the second, with a framework of iron. Higher up is a
modern bell which is rung (the old ones being tolled only).

The Mission buildings surround the garden, into which no woman, save a
reigning queen or the wife of the President of the United States, is
allowed to enter. An exception was made in the case of the Princess
Louise when her husband was the Governor-general of Canada. The wife of
President Harrison also has entered. The garden, with its fine Italian
cypress, planted by Bishop Diego about 1842, and its hundred varieties
of semi-tropical flowers, in the center of which is a fountain where
goldfish play, affords a delightful place of study, quiet, and
meditation for the Franciscans.

It is well that the visitor should know that this old Mission, never so
abandoned and abused as the others, has been kept up in late years
entirely by the funds given to the Franciscan missionaries, who are now
its custodians, and it has no other income.

The Mission Library contains a large number of valuable old books
gathered from the other Missions at the time of secularization. There
are also kept here a large number of the old records from which Bancroft
gained much of his Mission intelligence, and which, recently, have been
carefully restudied by Father Zephyrin, the California historian of the
Franciscan Order. Father Zephyrin is a devoted student, and many results
of his zeal and kindness are placed before my readers in this volume,
owing to his generosity. His completed history of the Missions and
Missionaries of California is a monumental work.



CHAPTER XX

LA PURÍSIMA CONCEPCIÓN

Although the date of the founding of this Mission is given as December
8, 1787,--for that was the day on which Presidente Lasuen raised the
cross, blessed the site, celebrated mass, and preached a dedicatory
sermon,--there was no work done for several months, owing to the coming
of the rainy season. In the middle of March, 1788, Sergeant Cota of
Santa Barbara, with a band of laborers and an escort, went up to prepare
the necessary buildings; and early in April Lasuen, accompanied by
Padres Vicente Fuster and José Arroita, followed. As _early_ as August
the roll showed an acquisition of seventy-nine neophytes. During the
first decade nearly a thousand baptisms were recorded, and the Mission
flourished in all departments. Large crops of wheat and grain were
raised, and live-stock increased rapidly. In 1804 the population
numbered 1522, the highest on record during its history, and in 1810 the
number of live-stock reported was over 20,000; but the unusual
prosperity that attended this Mission during its earlier years was
interrupted by a series of exceptional misfortunes.

The first church erected was crude and unstable, and fell rapidly into
decay. Scarcely a dozen years had passed, when it became necessary to
build a new one. This was constructed of adobe and roofed with tile. It
was completed in 1802, but although well built, it was totally destroyed
by an earthquake, as we shall see later on.

The Indians of this section were remarkably intelligent as well as
diligent, and during the first years of the Mission there were over
fifty rancherías in the district. According to the report of Padre
Payeras in 1810, they were docile and industrious. This indefatigable
worker, with the assistance of interpreters, prepared a Catechism and
Manual of Confession in the native language, which he found very useful
in imparting religious instruction and in uprooting the prevailing
idolatry. In a little over twenty years the entire population for many
leagues had been baptized, and were numbered among the converts.

This period of peace and prosperity was followed by sudden disaster. The
earthquake of 1812, already noted as the most severe ever known on the
Pacific Coast, brought devastation to Purísima. The morning of December
21 found padres and Indians rejoicing in the possession of the fruits of
their labor of years,--a fine church, many Mission buildings, and a
hundred houses built of adobe and occupied by the natives. A few hours
afterward little was left that was fit for even temporary use. The first
vibration, lasting four minutes, damaged the walls of the church. The
second shock, a half-hour later, caused the total collapse of nearly all
the buildings. Padre Payeras reported that "the earth opened in several
places, emitting water and black sand." This calamity was quickly
followed by torrents of rain, and the ensuing floods added to the
distress of the homeless inhabitants. The remains of this old Mission of
1802 are still to be seen near Lompoc, and on the hillside above is a
deep scar made by the earthquake, this doubtless being the crack
described by Padre Payeras. But nothing could daunt the courage or
quench the zeal of the missionaries. Rude huts were erected for
immediate needs, and, having selected a new and more advantageous
site--five or six miles away--across the river, they obtained the
necessary permission from the presidente, and at once commenced the
construction of a new church, and all the buildings needed for carrying
on the Mission. Water for irrigation and domestic purposes was brought
in cement pipes, made and laid under the direction of the padres, from
Salsperde Creek, three miles away. But other misfortunes were in store
for these unlucky people. During a drought in the winter of 1816-1817,
hundreds of sheep perished for lack of feed, and in 1818 nearly all the
neophytes' houses were destroyed by fire.

In 1823 the Mission lost one of its best friends in the death of Padre
Payeras. Had he lived another year it is quite possible his skill in
adjusting difficulties might have warded off the outbreak that occurred
among the Indians,--the famous revolt of 1824.

This revolt, which also affected Santa Inés and Santa Barbara (see their
respective chapters), had serious consequences at Purísima. After the
attack at Santa Inés the rebels fled to Purísima. In the meantime the
neophytes at this latter Mission, hearing of the uprising, had seized
the buildings. The guard consisted of Corporal Tapia with four or five
men. He bravely defended the padres and the soldiers' families through
the night, but surrendered when his powder gave out. One woman was
wounded. The rebels then sent Padres Ordaz and Tapia to Santa Inés to
warn Sergeant Carrillo not to come or the families would be killed.
Before an answer was received, the soldiers and their families were
permitted to retire to Santa Inés, while Padre Rodriguez remained, the
Indians being kindly disposed towards him. Four white men were killed in
the fight, and seven Indians.

Left now to themselves, and knowing that they were sure to be attacked
ere long, the Indians began to prepare for defense. They erected
palisades, cut loopholes in the walls of the church and other buildings,
and mounted one or two rusty old cannon. For nearly a month they were
not molested. This was the end of February.

In the meantime the governor was getting a force ready at Monterey to
send to unite with one under Guerra from Santa Barbara. On March 16
they were to have met, but owing to some mischance, the northern force
had to make the attack alone. Cavalry skirmishers were sent right and
left to cut off retreat, and the rest of the force began to fire on the
adobe walls from muskets and a four-pounder. The four hundred neophytes
within responded with yells of defiance and cannon, swivel-guns, and
muskets, as well as a cloud of arrows. In their inexperienced hands,
however, little damage was done with the cannon. By and by the Indians
attempted to fly, but were prevented by the cavalry. Now realizing their
defeat, they begged Padre Rodriguez to intercede for them, which he did.
In two hours and a half the conflict was over, three Spaniards being
wounded, one fatally, while there were sixteen Indians killed and a
large number wounded. As the governor had delegated authority to the
officers to summarily dispense justice, they condemned seven of the
Indians to death for the murder of the white men in the first conflict.
They were shot before the end of the month. Four of the revolt
ringleaders were sentenced to ten years of labor at the presidio and
then perpetual exile, while eight others were condemned to the presidio
for eight years.

There was dissatisfaction expressed with the penalties,--on the side of
the padres by Ripoll of Santa Barbara, who claimed that a general pardon
had been promised; and on the part of the governor, who thought his
officers had been too lenient.

An increased guard was left at Purísima after this affair, and it took
some little time before the Indians completely settled down again, as it
was known that the Santa Barbara Indians were still in revolt.

During all the years when contending with the destructive forces of
earthquake, fire, flood, and battle, to say nothing of those foes of
agriculture,--drought, frost, grasshoppers, and squirrels,--the material
results of native labor were notable. In 1819 they produced about
100,000 pounds of tallow. In 1821 the crops of wheat, barley, and corn
amounted to nearly 8000 bushels. Between 1822 and 1827 they furnished
the presidio with supplies valued at $12,921. The population, however,
gradually decreased until about 400 were left at the time of
secularization in 1835. The Purísima estate at this time was estimated
by the appraisers to be worth about $60,000. The inventory included a
library valued at $655 and five bells worth $1000. With the exception of
the church property this estate, or what remained of it, was sold in
1845 for $1110. Under the management of administrators appointed by the
government, the Mission property rapidly disappeared, lands were sold,
live-stock killed and scattered, and only the fragments of wreckage
remained to be turned over to the jurisdiction of the padres according
to the decree of Micheltorena in 1843. The following year an epidemic
of smallpox caused the death of the greater proportion of Indians still
living at Purísima, and the final act in the history of the once
flourishing Mission was reached In 1845, when, by order of Governor
Pico, the ruined estate was sold to John Temple for the paltry amount
stated above.

In regard to its present ownership and condition, a gentleman interested
writes:

"The abandoned Mission is on ground which now belongs to the
Union Oil Company of California. The building itself has been
desecrated and damaged by the public ever since its
abandonment. Its visitors apparently did not scruple to
deface it in every possible way, and what could not be stolen
was ruthlessly destroyed. It apparently was a pleasure to
them to pry the massive roof-beams loose, in order to enjoy
the crash occasioned by the breaking of the valuable tile.

"On top of this the late series of earthquakes in that
section threw down many of the brick pillars, and twisted the
remainder so badly that the front of the building is a
veritable wreck. During these earthquakes, which lasted
several weeks, tile which could not be replaced for a
thousand dollars were displaced and broken. To save the
balance of the tile, as well as to avoid possible accidents
to visitors, the secretary of the Oil Company had the
remaining tile removed from the roof and piled up near the
building for safety."



CHAPTER XXI

SANTA CRUZ

Lasuen found matters far easier for him in the founding of Missions than
did Serra in his later years. The viceroy agreed to pay $1000 each for
the expenses of the Missions of Santa Cruz and La Soledad, and $200 each
for the traveling expenses of the four missionaries needed. April 1,
1790, the guardian sent provisions and tools for Santa Cruz to the value
of $1021. Lasuen delayed the founding for awhile, however, as the
needful church ornaments were not at hand; but as the viceroy promised
them and ordered him to go ahead by borrowing the needed articles from
the other Missions, Lasuen proceeded to the founding, as I have
already related.

At the end of the year 1791 the neophytes numbered 84. In 1796 the
highest mark was reached with 523. In 1800 there were but 492. Up to the
end of that year there had been 949 baptisms, 271 couples married, and
477 buried. There were 2354 head of large stock, and 2083 small. In 1792
the agricultural products were about 650 bushels, as against 4300
in 1800.

[Illustration: RUINS OF MISSION LA PURÍSIMA CONCEPCIÓN.]

[Illustration: MISSION SANTA CRUZ.]

[Illustration]

[Illustration: RUINED WALLS OF MISSION LA SOLEDAD.]

The corner-stone of the church was laid February 27, 1793, and was
completed and formally dedicated May 10, 1794, by Padre Peña from
Santa Clara, aided by five other priests. Ensign Sal was present as
godfather, and duly received the keys. The neophytes, servants, and
troops looked on at the ceremonies with unusual interest, and the next
day filled the church at the saying of the first mass. The church was
about thirty by one hundred and twelve feet and twenty-five feet high.
The foundation walls to the height of three feet were of stone, the
front was of masonry, and the rest of adobes. The other buildings were
slowly erected, and in the autumn of 1796 a flouring-mill was built and
running. It was sadly damaged, however, by the December rains. Artisans
were sent to build the mill and instruct the natives, and later a smith
and a miller were sent to start it.

In 1798 the padre wrote very discouragingly. The establishment of the
villa or town of Brancifort, across the river, was not pleasing. A
hundred and thirty-eight neophytes also had deserted, ninety of whom
were afterwards brought in by Corporal Mesa. It had long been the
intention of the government to found more pueblos or towns, as well as
Missions in California, the former for the purpose of properly
colonizing the country. Governor Borica made some personal explorations,
and of three suggested sites finally chose that just across the river
Lorenzo from Santa Cruz. May 12, 1797, certain settlers who had been
recruited in Guadalajara arrived in a pitiable condition at Monterey;
and soon thereafter they were sent to the new site under the direction
of Comisionado Moraga, who was authorized to erect temporary shelters
for them. August 12 the superintendent of the formal foundation,
Córdoba, had all the surveying accomplished, part of an irrigating canal
dug, and temporary houses partially erected. In August, after the
viceroy had seen the estimated cost of the establishment, further
progress was arrested by want of funds. Before the end of the century
everybody concerned had come to the conclusion that the villa of
Brancifort was a great blunder,--the "settlers are a scandal to the
country by their immorality. They detest their exile, and render
no service."

In the meantime the Mission authorities protested vigorously against the
new settlement. It was located on the pasture grounds of the Indians;
the laws allowed the Missions a league in every direction, and trouble
would surely result. But the governor retorted, defending his choice of
a site, and claiming that the neophytes were dying off, there were no
more pagans to convert, and the neophytes already had more land and
raised more grain than they could attend to.

In 1805 Captain Goycoechea recommended that as there were no more
gentiles, the neophytes be divided between the Missions of Santa Clara
and San Juan, and the missionaries sent to new fields. Of course nothing
came of this.

In the decade 1820-1830 population declined rapidly, though in
live-stock the Mission about held its own, and in agriculture actually
increased. In 1823, however, there was another attempt to suppress it,
and this doubtless came from the conflicts between the villa of
Brancifort and the Mission. The effort, like the former one, was
unsuccessful.

In 1834-1835 Ignacio del Valle acted as comisionado, and put in effect
the order of secularization. His valuation of the property was $47,000,
exclusive of land and church property, besides $10,000 distributed to
the Indians. There were no subsequent distributions, yet the property
disappeared, for, in 1839, when Visitador Hartwell went to Santa Cruz,
he found only about one-sixth of the live-stock of the inventory of four
years before. The neophytes were organized into a pueblo named Figueroa
after the governor; but it was a mere organization in name, and the
condition of the ex-Mission was no different from that of any of
the others.

The statistics for the whole period of the Mission's existence,
1791-1834, are: baptisms, 2466; marriages, 847; deaths, 2035. The
largest population was 644 in 1798. The largest number of cattle was
3700 in 1828; horses, 900, in the same year; mules, 92, in 1805; sheep,
8300, in 1826.

In January, 1840, the tower fell, and a number of tiles were carried
off, a kind of premonition of the final disaster of 1851, when the walls
fell, and treasure seekers completed the work of demolition.

The community of the Mission was completely broken up in 1841-1842,
everything being regarded, henceforth, as part of Brancifort. In 1845
the lands, buildings, and fruit trees of the ex-Mission were valued at
less than $1000, and only about forty Indians were known to remain. The
Mission has now entirely disappeared.



CHAPTER XXII

LA SOLEDAD

The Mission of "Our Lady of Solitude" has only a brief record in written
history; but the little that is known and the present condition of the
ruins suggest much that has never been recorded.

Early in 1791 Padre Lasuen, who was searching for suitable locations for
two new Missions, arrived at a point midway between San Antonio and
Santa Clara. With quick perception he recognized the advantages of
Soledad, known to the Indians as _Chuttusgelis_. The name of this
region, bestowed by Crespí years previous, was suggestive of its
solitude and dreariness; but the wide, vacant fields indicated good
pasturage in seasons favored with much rain, and the possibility of
securing water for irrigation promised crops from the arid lands. Lasuen
immediately selected the most advantageous site for the new Mission, but
several months elapsed before circumstances permitted the erection of
the first rude structures.

On October ninth the Mission was finally established.

There were comparatively few Indians in that immediate region, and only
eleven converts were reported as the result of the efforts of the first
year. There was ample room for flocks and herds, and although the soil
was not of the best and much irrigation was necessary to produce good
crops, the padres with their persistent labors gradually increased their
possessions and the number of their neophytes. At the close of the ninth
year there were 512 Indians living at the Mission, and their property
included a thousand cattle, several thousand sheep, and a good supply of
horses. Five years later (in 1805) there were 727 neophytes, in spite of
the fact that a severe epidemic a few years previously had reduced their
numbers and caused many to flee from the Mission in fear. A new church
was begun in 1808.

On July 24, 1814, Governor Arrillaga, who had been taken seriously ill
while on a tour of inspection, and had hurried to Soledad to be under
the care of his old friend, Padre Ibañez, died there, and was buried,
July 26, under the center of the church.

For about forty years priests and natives lived a quiet, peaceful life
in this secluded valley, with an abundance of food and comfortable
shelter. That they were blessed with plenty and prosperity is evidenced
by the record that in 1829 they furnished $1150 to the Monterey
presidio. At one time they possessed over six thousand cattle; and in
1821 the number of cattle, sheep, horses, and other animals was
estimated at over sixteen thousand.

[Illustration: ANOTHER VIEW OF THE WALLS OF MISSION LA SOLEDAD.]

[Illustration: MISSION SAN JOSÉ. SOON AFTER THE DECREE OF
SECULARIZATION. From an old print.]

[Illustration: FIGURE OF CHRIST, MISSION SAN JOSÉ ORPHANAGE.]

After the changes brought about by political administration the
number of Indians rapidly decreased, and the property acquired by their
united toil quickly dwindled away, until little was left but poverty and
suffering.

At the time secularization was effected in 1835, according to the
inventory made, the estate, aside from church property, was valued at
$36,000. Six years after secular authorities took charge only about 70
Indians remained, with 45 cattle, 25 horses, and 865 sheep,--and a large
debt had been incurred. On June 4, 1846, the Soledad Mission was sold to
Feliciano Soveranes for $800.

One of the pitiful cases that occurred during the decline of the
Missions was the death of Padre Sarría, which took place at Soledad in
1835, or, as some authorities state, in 1838. This venerable priest had
been very prominent in missionary labors, having occupied the position
of _Comisario Prefecto_ during many years. He was also the presidente
for several years. As a loyal Spaniard he declined to take the oath of
allegiance to the Mexican Republic, and was nominally under arrest for
about five years, or subject to exile; but so greatly was he revered and
trusted as a man of integrity and as a business manager of great ability
that the order of exile was never enforced. The last years of his life
were spent at the Mission of Our Lady of Solitude. When devastation
began and the temporal prosperity of the Mission quickly declined, this
faithful pastor of a fast thinning flock refused to leave the few
poverty-stricken Indians who still sought to prolong life in their old
home. One Sunday morning, while saying mass in the little church, the
enfeebled and aged padre fell before the altar and immediately expired.
As it had been reported that he was "leading a hermit's life and
destitute of means," it was commonly believed that this worthy and
devoted missionary was exhausted from lack of proper food, and in
reality died of starvation.

There were still a few Indians at Soledad in 1850, their scattered huts
being all that remained of the once large rancherías that existed here.

The ruins of Soledad are about four miles from the station of the
Southern Pacific of that name. The church itself is at the southwest
corner of a mass of ruins. These are all of adobe, though the
foundations are of rough rock. Flint pebbles have been mixed with the
adobe of the church walls. They were originally about three feet thick,
and plastered. A little of the plaster still remains.

In 1904 there was but one circular arch remaining in all the ruins;
everything else had fallen in. The roof fell in thirty years ago. At the
eastern end, where the arch is, there are three or four rotten beams
still in place; and on the south side of the ruins, where one line of
corridors ran, a few poles still remain. Heaps of ruined tiles lie here
and there, just as they fell when the supporting poles rotted and
gave way.

It is claimed by the Soberanes family in Soledad that the present ruins
of the church are of the building erected about 1850 by their