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Somerset, amongst whom were seen some of the articles carried in the
mule's pack bags. On questioning them he found that they were
familiar with all the incidents of the journey, many of which they
described minutely. The mule had been found dead, having shared the
fate of Lucifer and Deceiver, and perished from thirst, and his packs
of course ransacked. They had watched the formation of the Cache,
when the party abandoned the heaviest articles of the equipment, and
in like manner ransacked it. These blacks must have travelled nearly
500 miles, for the Staaten is nearly 450 miles in a straight line
from Somerset, and were probably amongst those who dogged the steps
of the party so perseveringly to within 100 miles of Cape York,
frequently attacking it as described. From their accounts it appears
that the expedition owed much of its safety to their horses, of which
the blacks stood in great dread. They described minutely the
disasters of the poison camp on the Batavia, particularising the fact
of Frank Jardine having shot one of the poisoned horses, his
favourite, with his revolver, their start on foot, and other things.
From this is would appear that they closely watched and hung on to
the steps of the party, though only occasionally daring to attack
them; and proves that but for the unceasing and untiring vigilence of
the Brothers, and their prompt action when attacked, the party would
in all probability have been destroyed piece meal. The utter
faithlessness, treachery, and savage nature of the northern natives
is shown by their having twice attempted to surprise the settlement
whilst Mr. Jardine, senior, was resident there, although they had
been treated with every kindness from the first. In these encounters
two of the marines were wounded, one of whom has since died from the
effects, whilst others had narrow escapes, John Jardine, junr. having
had a four-pronged spear whistle within two inches of his neck.
Since then they have not ceased to molest the cattle, and in an
encounter they wounded Mr. Scrutton. They have utilized their
intercourse with the whites so far as to improve the quality of their
spears by tipping them with iron, a piece of fencing wire, 18 inches
long, having been found on one taken from them on a late occasion.
In his last letter Frank Jardine mentions an encounter with a
"friendly" native detected in the act of spearing cattle, in which he
had a narrow escape of losing his life, and states that, despite
their professions of friendship, they are always on the watch for
mischief. It is evident therefore, that no terms can safely be held
with a race who know no law but their own cowardly impulse of evil,
and that an active and watchful force of bushmen well acquainted with
savage warfare is necessary to secure the safety of the young
settlement. For a description of the habits and the character of the
Australian and Papuan races, which people the Peninsula and the
adjacent islands of Torres Straits, the reader is referred to the
interesting narrative of the voyage of the Rattlesnake, by Mr. John
McGillivray, in which the subject is ably and exhaustively treated,
and which leaves but little to add by succeeding writers.
THE MIDAMO.
The "villanous compound, a mixture of mangrove roots and berries,"
which was presented to the explorers by the friendly natives as a
peace-offering on first meeting them near Somerset, was probably what
is described as the "Midamo" in Mr. Anthelme Thozets' valuable
pamphlet already alluded to above on "the roots, tubers, bulbs, and
fruits used as vegetable food by the aboriginals of Northern
Queensland." The midamo is made by baking the root of the common
mangrove ('Avicennia Tomentosa'), which is called Egaie by the tribes
of Cleveland Bay, and Tagon-Tagon by those of Rockhampton. Its
preparation is described at page 13.
_____________
SOMERSET.
A description of the settlement at Port Albany, Cape York, at the
time of the arrival of the Brothers has been carefully drawn up in
the shape of a report to the Colonial Secretary of Queenslandby Mr.
Jardine. It is so full and interesting that I cannot do better than
publish it in extenso. It first appeared in the 'Queensland Daily
Guardian' of 24th June, 1865. A letter from Mr. Jardine to Sir
George Bowen, reporting the arrival of the sons, and epitomising the
events of the journey, together with the report of Dr. Haran, R.N.,
Surgeon in charge of the detachment of Royal Marines, on the climate
of Cape York, showing its great salubrity, are also added:--
PORT ALBANY.
Somerset, March 1st, 1865.
Sir,--My former reports to you having been, to a certain extent,
necessarily taken up with matters of detail in reference to the
formation of the new settlement of Somerset, and that object being
now in such a state of completion as to enable me to say that it is
fairly established, so far as the comfort and safety of the present
residents are concerned, I now do myself the honor to lay before you
the result of such general observations as I have been able to make
on what may be termed general matters of interest.
2. The portion of the country to which my observations will
particularly apply is that which, I think, may correctly be termed
the "York Peninsula proper," and comprises the land lying to the
northward of a line drawn from the estuary of the Kennedy River, at
the head of Newcastle Bay, to the opposite or north-west coast. The
general course of the Kennedy River runs in this line, and from the
head of the tideway to the north-west coast the breadth of land does
not exceed six miles. The mouth of the river falling into the sea a
short distance to the southward of Barn Island will be nearly met by
the western extremity of this line.
3. The land on the neck thus formed presents singular features.
There is no defined or visible water shed; a succession of low
irregular ridges, divided by swampy flats, extends from coast to
coast, and the sources of the streams running into either overlap in
a most puzzling manner. The large ant-hills which are spread over
the whole of this country may be taken as sure indicators of the
nature of the soils; on the ridges a reddish sandy loam, intermixed
with iron-stone gravel, prevails; on the flats a thin layer of
decomposed vegetable matter overlays a white sand, bearing
'Melaleuca' and 'Pandanus', with a heavy undergrowth of a plant much
resembling tall heath. Nearly every flat has its stream of clear
water; the elegant "pitcher" plant grows abundantly on the margins.
The timber is poor and stunted, chiefly bloodwood and 'grevillea';
and the grass is coarse and wiry.
4. Leaving this neck of barren and uninteresting country, the land
to the northward rises, and a distinct division or spine is formed,
ending in Cape York. From it, on either side, spurs run down to the
coast, frequently ending in abrupt precipices overhanging the sea; in
other places gradually declining to the narrow belt of flat land
which occasionally borders the shore. The formation is, I may say,
entirely sandstone, overlaid in many places by a layer of lava-like
ironstone. Porphyry occurs occasionally in large masses, split and
standing erect in large columns, at a distance resembling basalt.
The sandstone is of the coarsest quality, almost a conglomerate, and
is soft and friable; exposure to the air might probably harden it if
quarried, when it would be available for rough building. The ridges,
with very few exceptions, are topped with large blocks of ferruginous
sandstone, irregularly cast about, and are covered with a thick
scrub, laced and woven together with a variety of vines and climbers,
while the small valleys intervening bear a strong growth of tall
grass, through which numerous creeping plants twine in all
directions, some of them bearing beautiful flowers. Among them I may
particularise two species of 'Ipomea', which I believe to be
undescribed, and a vine-like plant, bearing clusters of fruit much
resembling in appearance black Hambro Grapes, wholesome and pleasant
to the taste. The scrubs are formed of an immense variety of trees
and shrubs, far too numerous for me toname, were I able to do so.
Some of them have fine foliage, and bear handsome flowers and
agreeably tasted fruit, and would form most ornamental additions to
our southern gardens and pleasure grounds. Several species of the
numerous climbing plants produce a fine and strong fibre, from which
the natives make their fishing lines. Some fine varieties of palm
are found on the moister lands near the creeks, two especially
elegant, a 'Seaforthia' and a 'Caryota'. A wild banana, with small
but good fruit, is also found in such localities. On the open
grounds the bloodwood, Moreton Bay ash, and a strong growing acacia
are the principal trees. Timber for building is scarce, and of very
indifferent quality. The iron-bark and pine are unknown here.
5. The soil on these grounds is a reddish loam, more or less sandy,
and thinly covered with a coarse ironstone gravel. Much of the
ironstone has a strong magnetic property--so much so as to suspend
a needle; and it was found a great inconvenience by Mr. Surveyor
Wilson, from its action on the instruments. As the land descends,
the soil becomes more sandy. Near the creek patches with a
considerable mixture of vegetable loam are found, which would be
suitable for the growth of vegetables, bananas, etc. The grass is
generally long and coarse, and soon after the rainy season ceases
becomes, under the influence of the strong south-east winds, withered
and dry. Horses and cattle keep their condition fairly, but sheep do
not thrive; the country is quite unsuited to them. Goats may be kept
with advantage; and pigs find an abundant supply of food in the
scrubs and swamps.
6. In the Zoology of the district, the careful researches of Mr.
M'Gillivray--the naturalist attached to H.M.'s surveying ship
Rattlesnake--have left little room for the discovery of many
positive novelties. I have, however, been able to note many
interesting facts in the economy and habits of the birds, especially
such as relate to their migration. Several of the species found here
are season visitors of New South Wales, and it is interesting to
compare the times of their arrival and departure in this place with
those in the southern colony.
7. The animals afford small variety. The dingo, or native dog, four
species of the smaller kangaroos, and two other marsupials are found.
One, an elegant little squirrel-like opossum, striped lengthways with
black and white, I believe to be new.
8. The birds are more plentiful. My collection comprises more than
one hundred species of land birds, many of them remarkable for beauty
of plumage, and peculiarity of form, structure, and habit. Among
them the most remarkable are the great black macaw, ('Microglossus
Atterrimus') the magnificent rifle bird, ('Ptiloris Magnifica') and
the rare and beautiful wood kingfisher, ('Tan Ts-ptera Sylvia'). The
latter first made its appearance here on the 30th of November last.
On the afternoon and night of the 28th and the 29th of that month
there was a heavy storm of rain, with wind from the north-east, and
the next morning the bush along the shore was ringing with the cries
of the new arrivals. To my constant enquiries of the blacks for this
bird, I was always told by them that when the wind and rain came from
the north-west the birds would come, and their prediction was
verified to the letter. They also say the birds come from "Dowdui"
(New Guinea). I think this probable, as several of the birds
described by the French naturalist, M. Lesson, as found by him in New
Guinea have also appeared here for the breeding season. The
'Megapodius Tumulus' is also worthy of mention, on account of the
surprising structure of its nest. The mound resembles, and is
composed of the same materials as that of the brush turkey
('Talegulla'), but is very much larger in size. Some that I have
measured are upwards of thirty (30) feet in diameter at the base, and
rise at the natural angle to a height of fifteen (15) feet or more.
It is wonderful how birds so comparitively diminutive can accumulate
so large a pile. These birds live in pairs, and several pairs use
the same mound. The eggs are deposited at a depth of from one to
three feet; the heat at that depth is very great, more than the hand
can bear for any length of time. I cannot say whether the young,
when released from the mounds, are tended by the parents; they,
however, return and roost in the mounds at night. The flesh of the
'Megapodius' is dark and flavorless, being a mass of hard muscle and
sinew. birds, which may be called game, are not numerous. The brush
turkey ('Talegalla'), the 'Megapodius', several species of pigeon,
with a few ducks and quail, comprise the whole.
9.--Fish are in abundance, and in great varieties; some of them of
strange form and singular brilliancy of coloring. The grey mullet,
the bream--a fish much resembling in general appearance the English
pike--and several others, are excellent eating.
10.--Three species of turtle are plentiful during the season, that
is, the period when they approach the shores to deposit their eggs,
the green, the hawksbill, and another species, which grow to a much
larger size than either of the above. The natives take large numbers
of the former; indeed, from the month of November till February
turtle forms their principal food. The green turtle are taken in the
water by the blacks, who display great address in "turning" them;
they are approached when asleep on the surface; the black slips
gently from his canoe and disappears under water, and rising beneath
the animal, by a sudden effort turns it on its back, and by a strong
wrench to the fore flipper disables it from swimming. The fisherman
is assisted by his companions in the canoe, and a line is secured to
the turtle. This is hazardous sport, and deep wounds are frequently
inflicted by the sharp edges of the shells, which in the female
turtle are very sharp. A singular mode of taking the hawksbill
turtle is followed by the natives here. This custom, though said to
be known so long back as the time of the discovery of America by
Columbus, is so strangely interesting that I will give a short
account of it, as I have seen it practised. A species of sucking
fish ('Remora') is used. On the occasion to which I allude two of
these were caught by the blacks in the small pools in a coral reef,
care being taken 'not to injure them'. They were laid in the bottom
of the canoe, and covered over with wet sea weed--a strong fishing
line having been previously fastened to the tail of each. Four men
went in the canoe; one steering with a paddle in the stern, one
paddling on either side, and one in the fore-part looking out for the
turtle and attending to the fishing lines, while I sat on a sort of
stage fixed midship supported by the outrigger poles. The day was
very calm and warm, and the canoe was allowed to drift with the
current, which runs very strong on these shores. a small turtle was
seen, and the sucking fish was put into the water. At first it swam
lazily about, apparently recovering the strength which it had lost by
removal from its native element; but presently it swam slowly in the
direction of the turtle till out of sight; in a very short time the
line was rapidly carried out, there was a jerk, and the turtle was
fast. The line was handled gently for two or three minutes, the
steersman causing the canoe to follow the course of the turtle with
great dexterity. It was soon exhausted and hauled up to the canoe.
It was a small turtle, weighing a little under forty pounds (40
lbs.), but the sucking fish adhered so tenaciously to it as to raise
it from the ground when held up by the tail, and this some time after
being taken out of the water. A strong breeze coming on, the canoe
had to seek the shore without any more sport. I have seen turtle
weighing more than one hundred (100) pounds, which had been taken in
the manner described. Though large numbers of the hawksbill turtles
are taken by the Cape York natives, it is very difficult to procure
the shell from them; they are either too lazy to save it, or if they
do so, it is bartered to the Islanders of Torres' Straits, who use it
for making masks and other ornaments.
11. Although there is a considerable variety of reptiles, snakes do
not appear to be very numerous. The common brown snake and
death-adder are found; carpet snakes (a kind of 'boa'), appear to be
the most common, and grow to a large size. They have been very
troublesome by killing our poultry at night. They seem to be
bloodthirsty creatures, frequently killing much larger animals than
they can possibly swallow, and are not satisfied with one victim at a
time. One which was killed in my fowl-house had three half grown
chickens compressed in its folds and held one in its jaws. A short
time since I was roused in the middle of the night by the piteous
cries of a young kangaroo dog, and on running out found it rolling on
the ground in the coils of a large carpet snake. The dog was
severely bitten in the loin, but in the morning was quite well,
proving that the bite of this reptile is innocuous. This snake
measured nearly twelve feet in length.
12. Crocodiles are found in numbers in the Kennedy River and a
lagoon, which has communication with its estuary. They are also seen
occasionally in the bays in Albany Passage.
13. Of the aborigines of Cape York I can say little more than has
already been so often repeated in descriptions of the natives of
other parts of the Australian continent. The only distinction that I
can perceive, is that they appear to be in a lower state of
degradation, mentally and physically, than any of the Australian
aboriginal tribes which I have seen. Tall well-made men are
occasionally seen; but these almost invariably show decided traces of
a Papuan or new Guinea origin, being easly distinguished by the
"thrum" like appearance of the hair, which is of a somewhat reddish
tinge, occasioned no doubt by constant exposure to the sun and
weather. The color of their skin is also much lighter, in some
individuals approaching almost to a copper color. The true
Australian aborigines are perfectly black, with generally woolly
heads of hair; I have however, observed some with straight hair and
features prominent, and of a strong Jewish cast. The body is marked
on each shoulder with a shield-like device, and on each breast is
generally a mark in shape of a heart, very neatly executed. The
large cicatrices which appear on the bodies of the tribes of Southern
Australia are not used here; nor is a front tooth taken out at the
age of puberty. The 'septum' of the nose is pierced, and the
crescent-shaped tooth, of the dugong is worn in it on state
occasions; large holes are also made in the ears, and a piece of wood
as large as a bottle cork, and whitened with pipe clay, is inserted
in them. A practise of cutting the hair off very close is followed
by both sexes, seemingly once a year, and wigs are made of the hair.
These are decorated with feathers, and worn at the 'corrobories' or
gatherings. The women hold, if possible, a more degraded position
than that generally assigned to them among the Australian aborigines.
They are indeed wretched creatures. The only covering worn by them
is a narrow belt of twisted grass, with a fringe of strips of palm
leaves in front. the men go entirley naked. The aborigines make no
huts. In the wet weather a rude screen of leafy boughs, with palm
leaves--if any happen to grow in the neighbourhood--is set up as
a shelter.
14. The arms used by these natives are few and simple. Four sorts
of spears, made from the suckers of a very light wood tree with large
pith, headed with hard wood and generally topped with bone so as to
form a point or barb, are the most common. The end of the tail of a
species of ray fish is sometimes used as a point. It is serrated and
brittle, and on entering any object breaks short off. It is said to
be poisonous, but I do not believe such to be the case, as one of the
marines stationed here was speared in the shoulder with one of these
spears, and no poisonous effect was produced. The point which broke
short off, however, remained in the wound, and could not be extracted
for many months. The spear most commonly in use, and the most
effective, has merely a head of very hard wood, from a species of
acacia, scraped to a very fine sharp point. These are the only
spears which can be thrown with any precision to a distance--they
are sent with considerable force. I extracted two from the thigh of
one of my horses; the animal had another in the shoulder, which had
entered to a depth of five and a half inches. All spears are thrown
with the 'wommera', or throwing stick. A rudely made stone tomahawk
is in use among the Cape York natives, but it is now nearly
surperseded by iron axes obtained from the Europeans. I have seen no
other weapons among them; the boomerang and nulla-nulla (or club) are
not known.
15. The greatest ingenuity which the natives display is in the
construction and balancing of their canoes. These are formed from
the trunk of the cotton tree ('Cochlospermum') hollowed out. The
wood is soft and spongy, and becomes very light when dry. The canoes
are sometimes more than fifty feet in length, and are each capable of
containing twelve or fifteen natives. The hull is balanced and
steadied in the water by two outrigger poles, laid athwart, having a
float of light wood fastened across them at each end--so that it is
impossible for them to upset. A stage is formed on the canoe where
the outriggers cross, on which is carried the fishing gear, and,
invariably, also fire. The canoes are propelled by short paddles, or
a sail of palm-leaf matting when the wind is fair. Considerable
nicety is also shown in the making of fishing lines and hooks. The
former are made from the fibres of a species of climber very neatly
twisted. The fish-hooks are made of tortoise-shell, or nails
procured from wreck timber. They are without barbs, and our
fish-hooks are eagerly sought for in place of them.
16. The food of the natives consists chiefly of fish, and, in the
season, turtle, with roots and fruits. These latter and shell-fish
it is the business of the females to collect and prepare. They may,
however, be truly said to be omnivorous, for nothing comes amiss to
them, and the quantity they can consume is almost incredible. I have
seen them luxuriating on the half putrid liver of a large shark cast
up on the beach, the little black children scooping up the filthy
oil, and discussing it with apparently the greatest gusto.
17. These remarks apply to the four tribes which inhabit the
territory within the limits mentioned at the commencement of this
report--viz., the peninsula to the northward of the Kennedy River.
These four tribes are not distinguishable from each other in any
distinct peculiarity that I can perceive. They keep each to their
own territory, except on the occasion of a grand "corroborie," when
the whole assemble. They are at present on terms of peace nominally.
Should a safe opportunity of cutting off a straggler offer, I have no
doubt it would be taken advantage of. They are cowardly and
treacherous in the extreme. The "Gudang" tribe, claiming the land
from Cape York to Fly Point, at the entrance of Albany Pass, is small
in numbers, having, I fancy, been seriously thinned by their
neighbours, the "Kororegas," from the Prince of Wales' Island, in
Torres' Straits, who frequently come down upon them. Paida, Mr.
M'Gillivray's 'kotaiga' (friend), was not long since killed by them.
The "Goomkoding" tribe, who live on the north-western shore, I have
seen little of. They and the "Gudang" seem to hold most
communication with the islanders of 'Torres' Straits, the
intermixture of the races being evident. "Kororega" words are used
by both these tribes, and the bow and arrow are sometimes seen among
them, having been procured from the island. The "Yadaigan" tribe
inhabit the south side of Newcastle Bay and the Kennedy River; the
"Undooyamo," the north side. These two tribes are more numerous than
the two first-mentioned, and appear to be of a more independant race
than the others, and gave us much trouble on our first settlement, by
continual thefts and otherwise. The tract of country which they
inhabit is nearly covered with the densest scrub and with swamp, into
which they took refuge with their booty as soon as any depredation
was committed, so as to render it next to impossible for us to pursue
them. These four tribes together do not number in all more than 250
to 300 men.
18. All these people are much addicted to smoking. Tobacco is used
by them in preference when it can be got. Before its introduction,
or when it was not procurable from Europeans, the leaves of a large
spreading tree, a species of 'Eugenia', was, and is still used.
These leaves must possess some strong deleterious or narcotic
property. I was for some time puzzled to assign a cause for so many
of the natives being scarred by burns. Nearly every one shows some
marks of burning, and some of them are crippled and disfigured by
fire in a frightful manner. They smoke to such excess as to become
quite insensible, and in that state they fall into their camp-fires,
and receive the injuries mentioned. The pipe used is a singular
instrument for the purpose. It is a hollow bamboo about 2 1/2 feet
long, and as thick as a quart bottle; one of the smoking party fills
this in turn with smoke from a funnel-shaped bowl, in which the
tobacco is placed by blowing it through a hole at one end of the
tube. When filled it is handed to some one who inhales and swallows
as much of the smoke as he can, passing the pipe on to his neighbour.
I have seen a smoker so much affected by one dose as to lie helpless
for some minutes afterwards.
19. Thus much for the general appearance and habits of the Cape
York natives. A very accurate vocabulary of their language has been
published by Mr. M'Gillivary in his account of the voyage of H.M.S.
Rattlesnake. Of their superstitions I am unable to speak with
certainty. That they have no belief in the existence of a Supreme
Being is, I think, positive. They are, like all the Australian
tribes, averse to travelling about at night if dark; this, I believe,
chiefly arises from the inconvenience and difficulty of moving about
at such times, and not from any superstitious fear. They travel when
there is moonlight. They are true observers of the weather, and
before the approach of a change move their camps so as to obtain a
sheltered position. They do not seem to give the slightest thought
to cause or effect, and would, I believe eat and pass away their time
in a sort of trance-like apathy. Nothing appears to create surprise
in them, and nothing but hunger, or the sense of immediate danger,
arouses them from their listlessness.
20. I am aware of the great interest taken by his Excellency the
Governor and all the members of the Government of Queensland in the
promotion of missionary enterprise. I much fear, however, that the
mainland here will be found but a barren field for missionary labors.
One great obstacle to successful work is the unsettled nature of the
people. No inducement can keep them long in one place. Certainly a
missionary station might be formed on one of the neighbouring islands
--Albany or Mount Adolphus Island, for instance, where some of the
young natives might be kept in training, according to the system used
by Bishops Selwyn and Patterson for the instruction of the
Melanesians.
21. With the Kororegas or Prince of Wales Islanders, who, from
constant communication with the islands to the northward, have
acquired a higher degree of intelligence than the pure Australians, I
believe a successful experiment could be made. Missionary enterprise
beyond the protection and influence of this new settlement at
Somerset would, of course, at present be attended with considerable
risk.
22. To the Banks and Mulgrave Islanders in Torres' Straits, a
similar remark will apply. Those people, however, seem to be of a
more savage nature, although intelligent, and giving considerable
attention to the cultivation of yams, bananas, etc. Both the good
and bad features in their characters may, I believe, in a great
measure be attributed to the strong influence exercised among them by
a white man, called by the natives "Wini," who has been living there
for many years. This man, who is supposed to be an escaped convict
from one of the former penal settlements in Australia, no doubt
considers it politic to keep Europeans from visiting the island where
he resides, "Badu". The natives of Cape York hold him and the Banks
Islanders generally in the greatest dread, giving me to understand
that all strangers going to these islands are killed, and their heads
cut off. The latter appears to be the custom of these and the
neighbouring islands towards their slain enemies.
23. The natives of the islands more to the northward and eastward
are said to be of milder dispositions, especially the Darnley
Islanders--of whom Captain Edwards, of Sydney, who had a
"Bech-de-mer" fishing establishment there during the last year,
speaks in high terms as being of friendly dispositions and displaying
very considerable intelligence, living in comfortable huts and
cultivating yams, bananas, coconuts, etc., in considerable
quantities. Among these islanders I should think missionaries might
establish themselves without great difficulty, and with a
satisfactory result.
24. I think that the simple fact of a settlement of Europeans being
established at Cape York will very much tend to curb the savage
natures of the natives, not only of the mainland, but also of the
islands, and any unfortunates who may be cast among them from
shipwrecked vessels will, at all events, have their lives spared; and
I believe that, should such an event take place, I should soon hear
of it from the natives here. The communication between the islanders
and the natives of the mainland is frequent, and the rapid manner in
which news is carried from tribe to tribe to great distances is
astonishing. I was informed of the approach of H.M.S. Salamander on
her last visit two days before her arrival here. Intelligence is
conveyed by means of fires made to throw smoke up in different forms,
and by messengers who perform long and rapid journeys.
25. I should like much to send one or two of the Cape York natives
to Brisbane to remain there a short time. I believe that the reports
which they would bring back to their tribe of the wonders seen among
the white men would tend more than any other means to promote
friendly feelings towards us, and to fit their minds to receive
favourable impressions.
26. From what I have previously said of the soil here, it will be
seen that no large portion of it is suited for agriculture. Even
were the land good, the peculiar climate, which may be considered dry
for eight months in the year, would not permit satisfactory
cultivation to any large extent. During the rainy months, from
December to April, vegetables suitable to the temperature may be
grown in abundance.
27. Of the agreeableness and salubrity of the climate of Somerset, I
can not speak too favorably. The wet season commenced here last year
(1864) with the month of December, and continued till the latter part
of March. During that time the rain was intermittent, a day or two
of heavy wet being succeeded by fine weather. The winds from the
north west were light, and falling away to calm in the evening and
night. During this season the highest range of my thermometer was 98
degrees in the shade; but it very rarely exceeds 90 degrees, as may
be seen from Dr. Haran's meteorological sheets. During the calms
immediately succeeding wet the heat was disagreeable, and mosquitoes
appeared, but not numerously. The nights were invariably cool. The
weather for the remaining seasons of the year may be termed
enjoyable. A fresh bracing breeze from the south east blows almost
continually, the thermometer averaging during the day from 80 to 85
degrees. This temperature, with the cool nights, (sufficiently so to
render a blanket welcome) and delightful sea bathing, prevent any of
the lassitude or enervating influence so common to tropical climates
elsewhere from being felt at Somerset.
28. During the time of my residence here no serious indisposition
has occurred among the European residents. Occasional slight attacks
of illness generally traceable to some cause, has taken place, but as
far as can be judged there is no 'local malady'. There has been no
symptom of fever or ague, which it was apprehended would be prevalent
during the rainy season, as in other hot countries. Dr. Haran, R.N.,
(the naval surgeon in charge) reports very favorably of the salubrity
of the climate. I have every reason to believe with Dr. Haran, that
at no very distant period, when steam communication through Torres
Straits shall have been establish, Somerset will be eagerly sought by
invalids from the East as an excellent and accessible sanatorium.
29. At all events, there can be no doubt but that the new settlement
will fulfil admirably the objects for which it was founded, 'i.e.', a
port of call and harbor of refuge for trade in the dangerous
navigation of Torres Straits, and a coal depot for steamers.
30. I almost fear that in the foregoing remarks it may be considered
that on some subjects I have entered too much into details, while on
others my notices have been too slight. I have endeavored, as much
as possible, to confine myself to subjects of interest, and you may
rely on my statements as the result of personal observation. Should
there be any particular point on which the Government may require
more specific information, I shall be most happy, if it be in my
power, to afford it.
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
JOHN JARDINE, P.M.
------
PORT ALBANY.
OVERLAND JOURNEY OF THE MESSRS. JARDINE TO THE PORT ALBANY SETTLEMENT.
Somerset, May 1, 1865.
Sir,--Since the date of my last report the most important
intelligence which I have to communicate is the arrival of my sons,
Frank and Alexander Jardine, with their overland party, all safe and
well, after an extremely arduous and toilsome journey of five months,
almost entirely over country which for the greater part may be termed
barren, the distance travelled over being somewhat more than 900
miles.
2. The party, consisting of my two sons and four other Europeans
(including Mr. Surveyor Richardson, attached to the expedition by the
Government of Queensland), with four aborigines of the Rockhampton
district, made their final start from Mr. J. G. McDonald's station,
Carpentaria Downs, in latitude 18 deg. 37 min 10 sec S., longitude
144 deg. 3 min 30 sec. E, (the farthest out-station on the supposed
Lynd River), on the 11th of October, 1864, and reached this place on
the 13th of March, ult. Rockhampton was the first point of
departure, my second son leaving it, with the horses and men, on the
16th of May, 1864, making the journey for them about 1800 miles.
3. It would appear from the journals kept that a great portion of
the country on the west coast of the York Peninsula, especially in
the locality of the Mitchell River, is at times (I presume
periodically) subject to inundation; the water, however, soon
disappears from the flat and sandy land, and for the greater portion
of the year, till the next rainy season, the country is destitute of
water, and in other respects little better than an absolute desert.
4. It is a subject of great regret to myself, and in which I am sure
you will share, that this long journey should be, so far as at
present appears, productive of so poor a result to the public in
developing new resources to the colony. However, a large and
valuable addition to geographical information has certainly been
gained; but at the same time few of the important discoveries in
lands suitable for pastoral or agricultural occupation, or in
minerals, etc., etc., and which might in so large a tract of country
have reasonably been expected, have been made.
5. My sons have experienced a severe disappointment to their hopes
and expectations in the nature of the country around, and within a
reasonable distance of this place, as well as a heavy loss in
prosecuting their undertaking. However at their ages, 23 and 21
respectively, the spirit is very buoyant, and they are again quite
ready for another venture. Their journey, which, from the nature of
the country traversed, has been one of unusual difficulty and
hardship; and it is surprising to me that, hampered as they were with
a herd of 250 cattle, for which providing food and water in a barren
and unknown country is in itself no easy matter, they should have
come through so successfully.
6. Next to the general barrenness of the country, the difficulties
they had to encounter were--first, the destruction of a quantity of
their supplies and gear, through the camp being carelessly permitted
to catch fire during their absence in pioneering the route. Next,
the determined hostility of the natives, who were almost continually
on their track, annoying them on every favorable opportunity; on one
occasion, the crossing of the "Mitchell," opposing them so
obstinately that a considerable number were shot before they would
give way. Then the loss of two-thirds of their horses (all the best)
from eating some poisonous plant, and which necessitated the last 300
miles of the journey being travelled on foot; and last, the flooded
state of the country during the season of the rains. And I think it
is not too much for me to say, that nothing but a thorough knowledge
of their business, supported by determined energy, could have carried
them through what must be considered one of the most arduous tasks in
exploration on record.
7. I will not attempt in the small space of a letter to give you
more full particulars of the journey and its incidents. Mr. Surveyor
Richardson has, of course, his journal and maps of the route as
directed by the government, and from these, with the information
gained by my sons in their numerous "offsets" in search of the best
courses to follow, which will be placed at the disposal of the
Government, I believe a pretty accurate idea of the nature of the
country on the west coast of the York Peninsula may be gathered.
8. My sons have at present formed their station near Point Vallack,
on the north shore of Newcastle Bay, between two or three miles from
the settlement of Somerset. They are on good terms with the natives,
and their black servants fraternise with them, but are kept under
strict rule. The natives of Cape York from the first have shown a
friendly feeling towards them, having, on their first arrival, met
them about twenty miles from the settlement, and shown them the
nearest way to it, and they have since been very useful in carrying
timber to build huts, stockyards, etc., etc; and I believe that for
the future, if well treated, they will offer no annoyance to the
present settlers. The establishment of a cattle station in the
neighborhood is of great advantage to the settlement, serving as an
outpost to secure its safety, and in opening up the country, besides
affording a ready supply of fresh meat. Already my sons and their
blacks have cut good passages through the scrub to the settlement,
and also through the various belts of scrub dividing their station
from open grounds; so that now a large extent of country can be
'ridden' over without obstruction.
9. I have little else of importance to communicate. The affairs of
this settlement have gone on slowly but steadily. The several works
left unfinished are, under the charge of the acting foreman, Private
Bosworth, Royal Marines, (and of whom I can speak most highly for his
attention and work), completed, with the exception of the Custom
House, which is well advanced.
10. The natives are on good terms with us, and work for us in
various ways, being duly paid in food, tobacco, etc.
11. On the 23rd ultimo there was a slight shock of an earthquake
felt distinctly by myself and other persons here. It occurred in the
afternoon, about two o'clock, was accompanied by a rumbling sound,
but lasted little more than a minute. The health of the royal
Marines, and all other residents at the settlement, continues to be
very good, as will be seen from the report of the surgeon Dr. Haran,
R.N. I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
JOHN JARDINE. P.M.
To the Hon. the Colonial Secretary, Brisbane.
***
DR. HARAN'S REPORT.
Somerset, May 22, 1865.
Sir,
It affords me much pleasure to have again to forward to your Excellency
a most favourable report of the climate of this settlement, and of the
uninterrupted good health of our small community, military and civil.
the dreaded summer season, with its calms, light winds and heavy rains,
has passed off without causing a single case of sickness, attributable
to noxious exhalations, which prevail at that season in most tropical
climates, but which, in my opinion, cannot exist here, owing to the
preventive causes enumerated in my letter of the 13th January last;
neither have we experienced that oppressiveness of the atmosphere which
its saturated condition at that season through the sun's direct
influence in favoring evaporation in the surrounding seas would lead one
to expect. Some slight oppressiveness was felt immediately before the
rains, but speedily disappeared on their occurrence. I can only account
for this valuable immunity by attributing it to some peculiarity of
climate, in all probability to the same causes which counteract the
evolution of noxious exhalations; for we did experience calms and very
light winds, and the hygrometer during the greater part of the time
indicated a very large amount of moisture in the atmosphere.
2. The meteorological sheets forwarded by this opportunity, contain full
particulars regarding the winds, temperature, etc., for the last four
months, and having been prepared from a series of observations,
conducted with care and regularly registered, they cannot fail, amongst
other important objects bearing on general climatology, to afford
convincing proof that, as a climate, even during the summer season, that
of Somerset, although in close proximity to the equator, possesses many
advantages not attainable in higher latitudes, and is, in my opinion,
from its mildness and equable character, especially suited for such as
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