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where, whilst toasting the outward, they solaced the inner man with a
decoction of Scrutton's, by courtesy called, soup, being an 'olla
podrida', or more properly "bouillon," of the bones, gristle, head,
and oddments of the lately-killed beast. This was always a stock
repast after each kill-day, and there is but little doubt but that
its "osmazome" contributed not a little, to the good health and heart
of the party. Almost every exploring party on short commons, records
some favourite cookery, some dish that their souls loved. In
McKinlay's journey, the dish most in vogue was a kind of "amorphous"
black-pudding, made of the carefully-saved blood of the bullock,
horse, or sheep, as the case might be, boiled with some fat, and
seasoned with a little condiment, which being of light carriage, can
always be saved for such high occasions. In the present instance,
the fat was always devoted to the greasing of the saddles,
pack-straps, etc., during the latter part of the journey, when
clothing was at a premium; of the explorers themselves, "more
aboriginum," who found that the protection it afforded them against
cold, wet, and mosquitoes, far outweighed any slight redolence,
which, after all, could only be offensive to anyone not equally
anointed. At night the Brothers camped on the north side of the
Deception, or Jardine, leaving the party again to await their report
and return, the cattle being in charge of Scrutton.
'February' 25.--There was an early start this morning, but the
little party did not make much headway that day, for after two miles
of boggy brushwood country their progress was suddenly arrested by a
sea of water, the overflow of a large creek, the outline of which
could be traced by a fringe of dark green foliaged trees. Some
fruitless attempts were made to cross it at different points. At the
narrowest part they could find, on running it down at a spot where
the channel was hemmed in by ridges on either side, it was still
half-a-mile wide, and running very strongly in the actual channel.
They therefore had to resign themselves to wait patiently till the
flood went down, apparently not a near prospect, for the rain still
continued to drizzle unceasingly. After hunting about for some time
they were fortunate enough to find a good dry camp when turning out,
they disposed themselves to await the subsidence of the water, with
what patience they might. The next two days were spent in hunting
for the pot, and exploring for a good crossing place. In the former
they met with no success, all they were able to find being a kind of
wild grape, about the size of a small marble. They are black and
sweet, and as Alexander Jardine describes, "very good to eat, but
they take all the skin off the tongue and lips!" On the evening of
the second day they had the pleasure of seeing that the creek was
slowly going down, giving promise that they might be able to cross it
on the morrow.
'February' 28.--This morning they had the satisfaction of seeing
that the creek had fallen sufficiently to enable them to cross, but
not without swimming. At the spot they chose for going over the
stream was about fifteen yards wide, but the current very rapid. The
horses were crossed in the usual manner, swimming with their saddles
on their backs, but the rations, etc., were passed over by a
different method, one which did credit to the projector. A kind of
flying suspension bridge was improvised, by which they were slung to
the other side, in a manner proving that necessity is the mother of
invention. By attaching one end of their light tent-line to the
branches of an over-hanging tree on the hither side, and the other
end to a butt on the opposite bank, the "swag" slid down by its own
gravity, and was safely crossed. Their 'impedimenta' were thus
safely transported to the opposite bank, the whole process occupying
about an hour. They were well re-paid for their long patience, for
immediately on attaining the other side, the country changed into
good sound well-grassed stringy-bark ridges, which continued
throughout the whole stage, with the exception of a few broad
tea-tree gullies. They encamped at about 10 miles. Poor old Eulah
experienced to-day, what he felt was a cruel disappointment. Just
before getting into camp he espied what he supposed to be a fresh
turkey's nest (the 'Talegalla Lathami'); jumping off his horse, he
eagerly commenced rooting it up, expecting to be rewarded by a fine
haul of eggs. These, as is the habit of that bird, were deposited in
a large mound formed of sticks, earth, and leaves. His
disappointment and disgust were equal, and his language forcible and
deep, on finding that he had been anticipated--the big mound was
the abode of emptiness. The mystery was cleared up on going on a
little way, when they found a black's camp about two days old, where
the egg-chips shewed that the occupants had enjoyed Eulah's
anticipated feed, the piccaninnies probably amusing themselves
afterwards by filling up the nest to its original appearance. In the
evening, whilst Alexander Jardine, was preparing the frugal supper
(they generally ate their jerked meet raw, but on this occasion he
was cooking it for a change), the Leader and Eulah walked to the top
of a small sandy conical hill, about half-a-mile distant, when
climbing the highest tree, they could find, they were rewarded by a
fine view of Newcastle Bay, on the south-east of the bight, on which
they were now camped. They had also the great satisfaction of
finding that they had at last headed the Escape River.
'March' 1.--"A nasty wet morning." The trio started early,
thinking it quite possible that they might "pull up" something or
other belonging to the Settlement before night, but they kept their
thoughts to themselves. They had had so many disappointments that
they felt that to hazard a guess even, was a mistake. After
travelling over a great deal of low scrub and brushwood, which,
however, was better than boggy ground ("to be without one or the
other," says Alexander Jardine "would have been too much to expect")
during a heavy shower of rain, about three o'clock, whilst riding
over some low sandy ridges they suddenly came on to a number of
blacks, camped on the outside of a thick scrub, at a point where it
abutted on a small creek. The travellers immediately unslung their
carbines, very dubious however as to whether they would go off (for
they were all damp,) and prepared for the customary "set-to." As
hitherto, in all these encounters, they had always without any show
of hostility on their part, been at once attacked, they were
surprised to find the blacks, who were very numerous, bolt into the
scrub, with the exception of three who stood their ground, and
holding up their empty hands shewed that they were unarmed, dancing
and shouting vociferously. Eulah was the first to detect what they
said, and reining up called out "hold on, you hearim, that one bin
yabber English." the brothers halted and listened. Sure enough they
distinctly heard the savages shouting excitedly "Alico, Franco,
Dzoco, Johnnie, Toby, tobacco, and other English words. It was now
evident that they had met with friendly natives, who were acquainted
with the Settlement, so they went forward and spoke to them. The
blacks still continued to shout their shibboleth, pointing to
Somerset, which they called "Kaieeby." After taking a rough
inventory of the camp, without, however, finding anything that could
have come from the Settlement, they started two of the most
intelligent in front of them, making them understand by signs, that
they wanted to be guided by the shortest route to Cape York. This
they had no difficulty in doing, for they were by far the most
intelligent blacks they had met with. The whole party now started
forward, the sable guides piloting them over the best ground. In
about 7 miles they arrived at a shallow salt-water creek, that
empties itself into a northern inlet of Newcastle Bay. Here they met
with a large body of unarmed blacks, who after making a great many
signs, came up and presented them with some spears and wommerahs,
which they had concealed in the mangroves, possibly as an earnest of
peace. They also brought them a villainous compound, in some
dilly-bags, a mixture of mangrove-roots and berries, pounded up into
a pulp, of a yellowish color. Although it was very disagreeable to
the taste, the travellers eat of it in token of confidence in their
hosts, or rather to make them believe that they trusted them, for
they were too well acquainted with the aboriginal nature to trust
them in reality, and kept a wary though unobserved watch. The tide
being in, and it being very late when the salt-water creek was
reached, the Brothers determined to camp with their newly-made
friends at their main camp, and accordingly followed them for about
two miles, when they again hit the salt creek. Here three large
canoes were moored to the mangroves, the largest was about 28 feet
long, and 30 inches wide, cut out of the solid butt of some large
tree, and very neatly finished. The tent was pitched, but not made
much use of, for after dark the travellers left it and camped
separately, each keeping vigilant watch all night. The natives spent
it very differently, and, whether in honor of the whites, or in
anticipation of picking their bones (it might have been either) they
held high corroboree till about midnight, keeping up a fearful din,
in which two large drums formed a prominent part. The name of this
kind of drum is "Waropa" or "Burra Burra," and it is procured in
barter or war from the Islanders of Torres Straits, who frequently
visit the continent. It is neatly made of a solid piece of wood
scooped out, in shape like an elongated dice box. One end is covered
with the skin of a snake or iguana, the other being left open. When
this instrument is played upon by a muscular and excited "nigger," a
music results which seems to please him in proportion to its
intensity; keeping time with these, and aiding with their voices,
they kept up their wild dance varying the chant with the peculiar
b-r-r-r-r-r-r-oo, of the Australian savage (a sound made by
"blubbering" his thick lips over his closed teeth,) and giving to
their outstretched knees the nervous tremor peculiar to the
corroboree. But a corroboree, like the ball of civilized life must
have an end, and at length the tired dancers sought their several
lairs, leaving the whites to watch the watery moon and lurid stars,
and listen to the dull plashing of the tide through the mangroves,
whilst waiting for daylight.
'March' 2.--At daylight the party started forward, accompanied by a
strong detachment of "black guards," who were much disgusted when the
greater number of them were dismissed before they had proceeded far,
no doubt wishing and expecting to share in the "bacca" or "bissiker,"
which would reward the pilots. Mr. Jardine selected the three they
had first met as guides, who turned out capital fellows. They
explained that to go straight they would have "mouro pia" much scrub,
and therefore led the way along the beach, carefully shewing the
horsmen the hardest places on the sands. In rounding one of the
rocky headlands, Eulah's horse fell with him, causing the greatest
amusement and merriment to the body-guard. To be laughed at by
Myalls was nearly too much for Eulah's equanimity, and could he have
had his own way he would probably have resented the insult. As it
was, his ire could only find vent in deeply muttered objurgations and
abuse. At about noon the party sighted the Settlement, and
involuntarily pulled up to gaze at the scattered and insignificant
buildings they had so long and ardently desired to see and struggled
to reach, hardly realizing that the goal was at last attained; when
they again moved forward theguides set up an admonitary yell, which
had the effect of bringing Mr. Jardine and their brother John to the
door. For a considerable time before the arrival of the overland
party, Mr. Jardine had not been without some uneasiness for the
success and safety of the expedition. The time for their probable
arrival had long elapsed. A report had reached him by the
"Salamander" from Rockingham Bay, that the party were on the Lynd,
unable to move forward for want of water, and that their provision
was exhausted, and finally the wet season had set in. To facilitate
their endeavours in finding the Settlement (a work of more than
ordinary difficulty, arising from the intricacy of the rivers and
scrubby nature of the country, at the apex of the Cape York
peninsula,) Mr. Jardine had cut a marked tree line for 30 miles in a
south-westerly direction, meeting a similarly marked line running
east and west from the head of the Kennedy to the west or Gulf Coast,
a distance of about 10 miles. On the latter and on either side of
the longitudinal line, trees were marked at intervals, with
instructions for their course, so that the party hitting the east and
west line would be guided to the junction of the first one leading
into the Settlement. The east and west line, it has been seen they
overran, the rapid tropical growth of the scrub having so far
obliterated it as to make it difficult to notice, or find, even if
sought for. Yet through any depression that might naturally be
induced by the delay, whatever his fears might have been for the
success of the expedition, he felt none for the safety of his sons,
well knowing and relying on their dauntless pluck, energy, and
fitness for the work. His parting injunction to them had been, that
whatever might betide, 'they should keep together'. He knew that he
would not be disobeyed, and felt firm in the faith that, should the
party by misfortune be reduced to their own two selves, with only
their tomahawks in their hands, they would make their way to him.
Thus, firmly reliant on the qualities of his boys, he waited with
patience, and his faith was well rewarded. On the morning of the 2nd
of March, Mr. Jardine being employed in some matters about the house,
during an "evendown" pour of rain, was disturbed by a loud shouting,
and looking out saw a number of blacks running up to the place.
Imagining that the Settlement was about to receive another attack,
(for the little community had already had to repulse more than one,)
he seized his gun, always in readiness for an "alerte" and rushed
out. Instead, however, of the expected enemy, he had the pleasure of
seeing his long-looked-for sons, surrounded and escorted by their
sable guides. For a long time previous, the natives who visited the
Settlement had been made to understand that Mr. Jardine expected his
sons with horses and cattle, and had been familiarized with their
names, "Franco" "Alico" as also with others such as "Somerset," "Cape
York," "Salamander," and "Toby," (Mr. Jardine's well-known retreiver)
the intention being that these should act as pass words when they met
the party, a wise precaution, which, as it has been seen, probably
prevented a collision. Thus, on nearing the Settlement the blacks
set up the shouts that had alarmed him, screaming out his name Joko,
Franco, Alicko, and such was the eagerness of each to prove that he
(smiting himself on the breast) was "Kotaiga" or friend, pointing at
the same time to the Brothers, as a witness of their truth, that it
was with some difficulty that the Father could reach his sons to
greet and welcome them. But for the horses they bestrode, even a
father's eye might have failed to distinguish them from the blacks by
whom they were surrounded. Six months of exposure to all weathers
had tanned their skins, and so reduced their wardrobe, as to make
their appearance primitive in the extreme, their heads being covered
with a cap of emu feathers, and their feet cased in green hide
mocassins. The rest of their costume was 'a l'ecossaise,' their
pantaloons being reduced to the waist-bands and pockets, the legs
having for a long time been matters of remembrance only. However,
they were hearty and well, in high spirits, and in good case. During
the hubbub caused by the tumultuous demonstrativeness of the natives,
an amusing episode occurred, which is worthy of record. The
attendant of Mrs. McClintock, a fine strapping girl from the Emerald
Isle, whose good humour and light-heartedness in the discomforts of a
new Settlement had earned her the name of cheerful Ellen, hearing the
tumult outside, and seeing Mr. Jardine rush out gun in hand, imagined
also that they were about to have another attack. Seizing her
mistress in her arms, with more kindness than ceremony, she bore her
away to her own room, where, having deposited her burden, she turned
the key on her, saying, "that was no place for her whilst fighting
was going on." Nor was it until she was well assured that there had
been a false alarm that the kind-hearted wench released her mistress
from durance.
It must be left to the imagination of the reader to realize the
swelling feelings of joy and pride with which the Father grasped the
hands of his gallant sons. After a separation of more than ten
months, his boys had found their way to him at the extremity of the
Australian Continent, by a journey of over 1600 miles, whose
difficulties, hardships, dangers, and escapes, have seldom been
parallelled, and never been surpassed in the whole annals of
exploration. Had they, like poor Lichhardt, Kennedy, or Burke and
Wills, perished in the attempt, they would have been honored as
heroes, and a tablet or monument would been handed down their names
to posterity. As it was, thanks to a kind Providence, they were
living heroes, who had sturdily accomplished their work, and brought
their companions through without hurt or casualty. The modesty which
is ever the attribute of true merit, will probably cause their cheeks
to tinge in finding their exploits thus eulogized, but assuredly it
is no exaggeration of praise to say, that they have won for
themselves a lasting and honorable name in the records of Australian
Exploration.
CHAPTER VI.
Chose Site for Station--Native Method of Using Tobacco--Return
for the Cattle--The Lakes--Reach the Camp--Another Horse Dead
--The Whole Party Cross the Jardine--Raft Upset--Cargo Saved--
Deserted by Guides--Final Start for Settlement--Another Horse
Abandoned--Horses Knocked Up--Cattle Missing--Choppagynya--
Reach Vallack Point--Conclusion.
On the afternoon of their arrival in Somerset, the Brothers, after a
"slight" luncheon, in which Mr. Jardine's preserved vegetables
received very particular attention, manned the whale-boat belonging
to the Settlement, and pulled over the Straits to Albany Island to
get fresh horses. Two were got over, but night coming on, the
crossing of the rest was deferred until the next day. The Strait is
three-quarters-of-a-mile wide, which, with a current running upwards
of five knots an hour, makes it an exhausting swim even for a strong
horse. The next morning three more horses were crossed. The five
expedition horses which these re-placed were in a miserable
condition. Three of them had given in on the preceding day, two
miles from the township, and had to be left behind for the time.
With the fresh horses the Brothers were enabled to take a look about
them, and select a site for the formation of a cattle station. A
convenient spot was chosen at Vallack Point, about three miles from
Somerset, to which it now only remained for them to fetch up their
companions and the cattle. Two days were spent in recruiting the
horses, the explorers themselves, probably, enjoying the "dolce far
niente" and change of diet. The black guides were not forgotten, and
received their reward of biscuit and tobacco. The manner in which
they use this latter is curious, and worthy of notice. Not satisfied
with the ordinary "cutty" of the whites, they inhale it in volumes
through a bamboo cane. The effect is a profound stupefaction, which
appears to be their acme of enjoyment. On the morning of the 5th,
taking with them their younger brother, John Jardine, and their two
guides, Harricome and Monuwah, and the five fresh horses, in addition
to their own, the Brothers started to return to the cattle party, who
were anxiously awaiting their return on the banks of the flooded
Jardine. The black pilots were made to understand where the camp
was, and promised to take them by a good road. The first stage was
to the Saltwater Creek, on which they had camped with the tribe,
which they reached in about 17 miles, passing on the way, three fine
lakes, Wetura, Baronto, and "Chappagynyah," at two, four, and eight
miles from Somerset. The road was a fair one for the cattle, keeping
along the line marked by Mr. Jardine the preceding year as before
mentioned, and only presented a few light belts of scrub to go
through. They were likewise enabled to choose a better crossing of
the Saltwater Creek, where the swamps join and form a defined
channel. The last two miles were very boggy, even the fresh and
well-conditioned horses getting stuck occasionally.
'March' 6.--The camp was reached in the evening of to-day, at the
end of about 22 miles, but the black pilots were of very little use,
as shortly after starting they fairly got out of their latitude, and
were obliged to resign the lead to the Brothers, who hit the river a
little before dark, nearly opposite the camp. They found it about
the same height as when first crossed, but it had been considerably
higher during their absence. It being too late to cross, the party
camped on their own side, and Messrs. Harricome and Monuwah swam over
to see the new strangers and get a supply of beef. They returned
with nearly a shoulder of a good sized steer, which entirely
disappeared before morning, the whole night being devoted to feeding.
The quantity of meat that a hungry native can consume is something
astounding, but in this case beat anything that any of the whole
party had ever seen. The natural result was a semi-torpor and a
perfectly visible distention.
'March' 7.--This morning the Brothers crossed over to the camp,
when they had the satisfaction of finding, on counting the cattle,
that a number were away, and when the horses were tried, two of them
were found missing, besides one that had died during their absence,
"Lady Scott." They were immediately sent for, and the remainder of
the party employed in preparing for the crossing, and killing a
beast. A fresh raft was made with the hide capable of carrying 400
lbs. weight. The two Somerset blacks evinced a great deal of
surprise at sight of the cattle, and expressed it by chirping and
making various curious noises with their tongues and mouths.
Accustomed chiefly to fish, herbs, and roots, the succulent beef had
charms which outweighed surprise, and another night was spent in
feasting on the "oddments" of the fresh killed beef.
'March' 8.--The missing cattle and horses were brought in with the
exception of three, which prevented the party crossing to-day,
although all was now in readiness. The river was still 200 yards
wide, and running strongly, so that it was expedient to cross the
whole together.
'March' 9.--The three missing cattle not having been found, the
crossing operations were commenced at mid-day. The width and
appearance of the river made it difficult to make the cattle face it,
but they were all safely crossed after a little time, with the
exception of one, which broke away, and could not be recovered. The
pack-horses were then put over, which was easily accomplished, and it
then only remained to cross the packs and baggage. The raft answered
admirably, and everything was ferried over in safety, till the last
cargo, when a little adventure occurred, which nearly cost the life
of one of the party. Cowderoy, being unable to swim, had to be taken
across holding on to the raft, and was, therefore, left to the last;
all went well with him until within 30 yards of the bank, when,
whether from trepidation, induced by visions of alligators (with
which the river indeed abounds), or from an attempt to strike out
independently, he "succeeded" in upsetting and sinking the raft, and
was with some difficulty got to the shore "quitte pour la peur." In
truth it requires some nerve for a man who can't swim to cross a wide
and rapid river. Without a confiding trust in the means adopted for
his transport, a catastrophe is not an unlikely result. The writer
has known instances of persons crossing broad rivers supported by a
spear held between two blacks, by holding on to a bullock's tail, and
even sitting on a horse's back, but in every case the success of the
attempt depends almost entirely on the coolness of the individual,
and even with this essential, he has known some fatal cases, so that
Cowderoy might congratulate himself on his safe transit. The packs,
etc., which formed the last cargo, were recovered after some time,
the distance from the shore being slight, and Cowderoy soon recovered
his accustomed good humor. By four o'clock everything had been
crossed in safety, save the four beasts before mentioned; but on
camping for the night it was found that the guides had decamped,
their unwonted high feeding, having, no doubt, induced an
indisposition to work, a result not confined to blacks alone.
'March' 10.--This morning the "Cowal," or watercourse, which had
detained the Brothers on their first trip, had to be swum over, and
here poor Ginger, one of the horses, got hopelessly bogged, and
though got out and put on his legs with saplings, was too exhausted
to go on,and had to be abandoned. The distance accomplished was 11
miles.
'March' 11.--The line marked by Mr. Jardine was followed to-day. A
scrub occurred on a creek called Wommerah Creek, through which it
took two hours to drive the cattle. Only 10 miles were made, and the
camp was pitched at about 4 miles from the mouth of the creek where
the corroboree was held. Three horses were knocked up during the
day, which prevented their gotting as far as intended.
'March' 12.--On counting the cattle it was found that 30 head had
been dropped in coming through the scrub at Wommerah Creek. Two of
the black-boys were sent after them, and the Brothers went out to
find a crossing-place over Ranura Creek, (their last camp in
Somerset.) Here they met the same tribe, (known as Wognie's,) and
bartered "bacca" and "bissika," against "moro wappi," or fish, with
which the camp was plentifully supplied in the evening. The cattle
were recovered all but five. The country is described as being
composed of ridges of white and red sand, intersected by swamps of
tea-tree, pandanus, and banksia, the crest of the ridges being
generally surmounted by a patch of scrub. The timber, bloodwood,
mahogany, stringy-bark, and nonda.
'March' 13.--A late start was made to-day, for some of the horses
were away. The camp was formed on the banks of the lake
before-mentioned, 8 miles from Somerset, Chappagynyah, which is
described as teeming with crocodiles. tThe next day the party
reached their final resting place, probably not without some
exhiliration in feeling that their journey was over. They were met
at Baronto, by Mr. Jardine, who had ridden out from Somerset for the
purpose. The camp was established at Vallack Point, where the
wearied horses and cattle at length found rest, whilst their drivers
were able to indulge in the unwonted luxuries of regular feeding and
uninterrupted sleep: luxuries which few but those who have
experienced hunger and broken rest can fully appreciate. They had
been on the road for 5 months, travelled over 1600 miles, the last
250 of which were, as we have seen, performed on foot, and by most of
the party barefooted, whilst for the last four weeks their food had
consisted chiefly of jerked veal, fish without salt, and the wild
fruits and herbs they might find in the bush. In addition to the
distance travelled over by the whole party, and over which the cattle
were driven, the Brothers traversed more than 1200 miles in their
exploratory trips ahead, looking for the lost horses, etc. Alexander
Jardine's journey down the Einasleih alone amounted to little less
than 300. It may be imagined, therefore, that the return to the
habits and fare of civilized life must have been an agreeable change.
After an interval employed by the Brothers in forming a station at
Vallack Point, they returned with their father to Brisbane, in H.M.S.
Salamander, leaving their younger brother, John, in charge of the
newly-formed station, where the cattle were doing well. Mr.
Richardson left in the same vessel, and on arriving in Brisbane
immediately set to work to chart the route. Having every facility at
hand in the office of the Surveyor-General, the error of the river
Lynd was rectified, and a map compiled, shewing the route, from which
that now presented to the reader has been reduced. A glance at it
will shew that a large tract of unexplored country exists between the
track of the Jardines and that of Kennedy, which affords ample scope
for, and may possibly repay future explorations. Already stock is on
the road to occupy country on the lower Einasleih, and it is not
improbable that before long the rich valley of the Archer will add
its share to the pastoral wealth of Queensland.
FINIS.
***
[Plate: SOMERSET CAPE YORK. Lithograph.]
APPENDIX
THE MELALEUCA ('Tea-tree Gum M. Leucodendron.')
This tree, of which there are several varieties, is very common to
Northern Australia; the drooping kind ('Melaleuca Leucodendron'),
occupying the beds and margins of the rivers, where its long pendant
branches weeps the stream, as does the graceful willow of Europe.
Its bark is in thin paper-like layers, whilst its leaves are like
that of the gum, but thinner and straighter. It is remarkable for
containing an extraordinary quantity of brackish water, which pours
out in a torrent, when the bark is cut through, to the extent of from
a quart to a gallon. Another variety is found chiefly in flat sandy
country and shallow swamps. It is much smaller than that of the
rivers, and the leaves broader, stiff, and upright, its blossoms
nearly the same. It is indifferently called weeping gum, tea-tree
gum, and tea-tree, although it is in no way allied to the latter. It
is with the upright kind that the arid levels of the Staaten are
chiefly timbered.
GARRAWAN.
This scrub, one of the numerous family of accacia, which together
with the pandanus, gave the travellers so much annoyance on their
journey, occupies a large extent of country about the Richardson
range, from the Batavia to Cape York. It much resembles, and is
probably identical with that which grows in the neighbourhood of
Sydney, to the appearance of which, indeed, that part of the
Peninsula closely resembles.
FLOCK PIGEON OF THE GULF ('Phaps Histrionica.')
These beautiful pigeons which are alluded to by Leichhardt, are at
certain seasons found in immense flocks in the plain country about
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Their range is wide, as in 1846 they
appeared in flocks of countless multitudes on the Murrimbidgee River,
N.S.W., probably driven from their usual regions by drought. They
are described and figured in Mr. Gould's great work on the Australian
birds.
THE EINASLEIH.
This river was erroneously supposed by its first settlers to be the
Lynd of Leichhardt. That such was not the case, was proved by
Alexander Jardine, who traced it down for 180 miles from Carpentaria
Downs, when he turned back, within about a day's stage of its
junction with the Gilbert, fully satisfied that it could not be the
Lynd. Since then it has, I believe, been traced into the Gilbert,
and thence to the Gulf. Its importance would lead to the supposition
that it was the principal branch of the Gilbert. There is an
excellent cattle country on the lower part, as described in the text
which has probably ere this been occupied by our pioneers.
THE NONDA ('Parinarium Nonda. F. Mueller.')
This tree so named by Leichhardt's black-boys (described in Bentham's
'Flora Australiensis'), is very abundant north of the Einasleih,
which is possibly the extreme latitude of its zone south. It formed
an important accession to the food of the party, and it is highly
probable that their good health may be attributable to the quantity
of fruit, of which this was the principal, which they were able to
procure, there being no case of scurvy during the journey, a
distemper frequently engendering in settled districts, when there is
no possibility of varying the diet with vegetables. The foliage of
the tree is described as of a bright green, the fruit very abundant,
and much eaten by the natives. It is of about the size and
appearance of a yellow egg plum, and in taste like a mealy potatoe,
with, however, a trace of that astringency so common to Australian
wild fruits. The wood is well adapted for building purposes.
BURDEKIN DUCK ('Tadorna Raja').
This beautiful species of shelldrake, though not numerous, has a wide
range, extending from the richmond river to Cape York. It frequents
the more open flats at the mouths of rivers and creeks.
THE NATIVE BEE.
This little insect (called Wirotheree in the Wellington dialect), the
invasion of whose hoards so frequently added to the store of the
travellers, and no doubt assisted largely in maintaining their
health, is very different from the European bee, being in size and
appearance like the common house-fly. It deposits its honey in trees
and logs, without any regular comb, as in the case of the former.
These deposits are familiarly known in the colony as "sugar bags,"
(sugar bag meaning, aboriginice, anything sweet), and require some
experience and proficiency to detect and secure the aperture by which
the bees enter the trees, being undistinguishable to an unpractised
eye. The quantity of honey is sometimes very large, amounting to
several quarts. Enough was found on one occasion to more than
satisfy the whole party. Its flavor differs from that of European
honey almost as much as the bee does in appearance, being more
aromatic than the latter: it is also less crystalline. As the
celebrated "Narbonne honey" derives its excellence from the bees
feeding on the wild thyme of the south of France, so does the
Australian honey derive its superior flavour from the aromatic
flowers and shrubs on which the Wirotheree feeds, and which makes it
preferred by many to the European.
THE APPLE-GUM ('Angophora?')
I have been at some pains to discover to what species this tree
belongs, but further than that it is one of the almost universal
family of the Eucalypti, have not been able to identify it. As
mentioned in the text, it was found very valuable for forging
purposes by the Brothers, who were able to bring their horse-shoes
almost to a white heat by using it. It is like box in appearance,
and very hard.
TERRY'S BREECH-LOADERS.
This formidable weapon can hardly receive too high a commendation,
and to its telling efficiency is probably attributable the absence of
any casualty to the party in their many encounters with the savages.
Not only for its long range is it valuable, but for its superior
certainty in damp or wet weather, its charge remaining uninjured
after days and weeks of interval, and even after immersion in water,
making it available when an ordinary piece would be useless. The
effect of the conical bullet too is much more sure and complete,
which, when arms 'must' be resorted to, is of great importance.
THE MARAMIE.
This shell-fish is to be found in almost all the Australian rivers
and lagoons. It is in size and appearance very much like the little
cray-fish or "Ecrevisses" which usually garnish the "Vol-au-vent" of
Parisian cookery, and of very delicate flavor.
SPINIGEX, Spear Grass, Needle Grass, or "Saucy Jack" ('Triodia Irritans.')
This grass, so well known to all Australian travellers, is a certain
indication of a sandy sterile country. The spinifex found in the
Mally scrubs of the south attains a great size, generally assuming
the appearance of a large tuft or bush from one to two feet in
diameter, and twelve to eighteen inches high. When old, its sharp
points, like those of so many immense darning needles set on end at
different angles, are especially annoying to horses, who never touch
it as food, except when forced by starvation. In Northern Queensland
the present species is found abundantly from Peak Downs to Cape York.
FIVE CORNERS ('Stypelia?')
This fruit is well known and very common in the neighbourhood of
Sydney, and was found in the scrubby region about the Richardson
Range, which, as before mentioned, is of similar character to that
description of country. It does not, so far as I am aware, exist in
any other part of Queensland.
THE NATIVE PLUM ('Owenia.')
This tree, of which there are several species, ('Owenia Cerasifera'
and 'Owenia Vanessa' being most common in Queensland), is found along
the whole of the east coast, as far south as the Burnett, and is one
of the handsomest of Australian forest trees. Its purple fruit has a
pleasant acid flavor, and is probably a good anti-scorbutic. It is
best eaten after having been buried in the ground for a few days, as
is the custom of the natives. The stone is peculiar, having much the
shape of a fluted pudding basin. The timber is handsomely grained
and is of durable quality.
On the subjects of the fruits, edible plants, and roots of
Queensland, Mr. Anthelme Thozet, of Rockhampton, whose name is well
and deservedly known to Botanists, has been at great pains to prepare
for the approaching Exhibition at Paris, a classified table of all
that are known as consumed by the natives raw and prepared, and to
his enthusiastic attention to the subject, we are indebted for the
possession of a large and important list, a knowledge of which would
enable travellers in the wilds of the colony to support themselves
from their natural productions alone, in cases where their provision
was exhausted.
THE CALAMUS ('Calamus Australis.)
This plant belongs to a genuis of palms, the different species of
which yield the rattan canes of commerce. Its form in the scrubs of
the Cape York Peninsula is long and creeping, forming a net work of
vines very formidable to progress.
THE PITCHER PLANT ('Nepenthes Kennedyana.')
This interesting plant was first noticed to the north of the Batavia
River, and is common to the swamps of the peninsula. It has been
described and named in honor of the unfortunate Kennedy, who first
noticed it.
THE FERGUSON OR STAATEN.
This stream, whose arid banks Mr. Jardine was forced to trace to the
sea, in consequence of the sterility and waterless character of the
levels to the northward, is neverthless of some importance. Like
most of the northern rivers, it is a torrent stream, whose bed is
insufficient to carry off its waters during the flooded season,
causing the formation of lagoons, back-waters, and ana-branches, and
yet in the dry months, containing only a thread of water trickling
along a waste of sand, sometimes three or four hundred yards wide,
and at intervals loosing itself and running under the surface.
Should the northern branch which was seen to join amongst the
ana-branches near its debouchure prove to be the larger stream, that
followed by the party might still retain the name of "the Ferguson,"
given to it by the Brothers, in honor of the governor of Queensland.
It receives Cockburn Creek, one of importance, which, just before
joining it, receives the waters of another large creek from the
south, which was supposed to be Byerley Creek, but this as mentioned
in the text, is unlikely, for when the Brothers were in quest of the
Lynd (which they never reached at all) they left Byerley Creek
trending to the south, at a point considerably to the west of the
longitude of that influence. It is more probable, therefore, that
Byerley Creek is a tributary of either the Einasleih or Gilbert, or
that it is an independant stream altogether, running into the Gulf
between the Gilbert and Staaten rivers.
It appears unlikely also that any practicable route for stock will be
discovered between the coast which Mr. Jardine skirted, and the heads
of the rivers Staaten, Lynd, Mitchell, and Batavia. The interval
between Kennedy's track and that of the Brothers has yet to be
explored, when the best line will probably be found nearer to the
former than the latter, for the country between the Staaten and
Mitchell near their sources has been proven to be a barren and
waterless waste, the good country only commencing beyond the
Mitchell, and forming the valley of the Archer, but terminating about
the Coen.
FATE OF THE MULE.
The fate of the unfortunate mule, whose loss was amongst the most
severely felt of the journey, has come to light in rather an
interesting manner. In a late letter from Cape York, Mr. Frank
Jardine mentions that some natives had visited the Settlement at
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