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they were on eastern waters, as, whilst out sugar-bag hunting in the
evening, the Brothers saw the blue waters of the ocean about twelve
or fifteen miles to the eastward, a small arm of which was supposed
to be a bay to the northward of Cape Grenville. Their latitude was
11 degrees 46 minutes 36 seconds. The camp was pitched at the head
of a small creek running eastward.
'January' 20.--After 4 miles of brushwood and scrubby range had
been accomplished this morning, further progress was stopped by a
dense pine and vine scrub stretching across the course. The cattle
were halted outside, whilst the Brothers made search for an opening
for them to get through, in doing which they came on to a narrow
track cut by the blacks. This they followed for more than two miles,
but were obliged to return at last, the vine ropes, tangle, and dense
scrub, making it hopeless to attempt taking the cattle along it. A
further search proved equally unsuccessful. The whole party had
therefore to turn back along their tracks for a couple of miles, then
turning east they travelled on that bearing. At about half-a-mile
they reached the eastern slope, from which the sea was distinctly
visible. A spur of the range was followed for about four miles into
rather better country, where the party camped, being well-grassed and
slightly timbered, though stoney. Although about 9 miles were
travelled over, the distance in latitude from the last camp could not
have been more than one-and-a-half miles. From a bluff on the range
a fine view of the low country and sea was obtained, and a bearing
taken to Cape Grenville of 117 deg. Blacks' tracks were very
numerous to-day, and it was evident by the neat cutting of the marks
on the trees that they were provided with good iron tomahawks. Many
turkeys' nests were found, but the eggs only benefitted the stronger
stomachs of the party, having young ones in them in most cases. In
crossing one of the boggy creeks, one of the horses jumped on to a
pack-saddle, and a hook entering his skin lacerated it dreadfully.
'January' 21.--The course to-day was N.E. by N., along the eastern
slope of the Richardson Range, through a fearfully difficult country.
Seven deep scrubby creeks had to be crossed running strongly to the
westward, whose banks were invariably fringed with a thick scrub,
which had in each case to be cut through before the cattle could
pass: one in particular was so dense that it alone occupied three
hours in cutting. The cattle occasionally got their horns entangled
in the vines, and had to be cut loose. One cow got fearfully furious
at being thus arrested, and when extricated, galloped straight away,
and was no more seen. Over seven hours were occupied in making a
distance of about 8 miles, only 3 of which were spent in actual
travelling. A great variety of palms were seen in the scrubs, which
were covered with fruit and berries, but only the "Seaforthia," the
most graceful of the family, the 'Caryota Urens', remarkable for its
star-shaped fronds and the more common 'Corypha', of which the
colonial straw-hats are made, were known to the travellers. Latitude
11 degrees 37 minutes 46 seconds.
'January' 22.--The country traversed to-day was of the same
description as that of yesterday, utterly without grass, and the same
tedium and toil were experienced in cutting through the vine scrubs
which bordered the running creeks. These were very numerous, and
quite uniform in their difficulty, a lane for the cattle having to be
cut through each. Some very large pines were noticed to-day (most
probably 'Araucaria Cunninghamii'), which, forming large and dense
scrubs, twice forced the party out of their course. The camp
to-night was a very miserable one, surrounded by scrub and brushwood,
without a blade of grass for the stock, or even a tree that could be
marked, and to add to their wretchedness, a heavy rain came down
which lasted till near midnight. Course N.W., 10 miles. (Camp
LXXVI.)
'January' 23.--A steady rain poured down all to-day, and as
yesterday, the route alternated over and through desert wastes of
brush and tangled scrubs, the former telling with great severity on
the lacerated feet of the travellers. Their legs had the appearance
of having been curried by a machine. At the end of 9 miles they
luckily came on to a creek comparatively well-grassed on the banks.
This being the first that had been seen for three days, they joyfully
encamped on an open ridge. The timber comprised nonda, grevillea,
banksia, tea-tree, mahogany, and many other tropical trees not known.
The total distance travelled was 10 miles. N. by W. (Camp LXXVII.)
'January' 24.--For the first three miles to-day, the country
remained similar to the generality, that is, scrub and heath, after
this it slightly improved, opening into coarse sandstone ridges, in
some parts strewed with quartz pebbles, either white or tinted with
oxide of iron. At two miles from the start a stream was struck,
running north, having a clear sandy bed thirty yards wide, which was
immediately concluded to be a head of the Escape River, and a
continuation of that crossed on the 22nd. Into this, numerous short
steep scrubby creeks discharge themselves from the range or ridge to
the eastward. These had, as usual, all to have passages cut through
them for the stock. At the end of about six miles, a heavy
thunder-storm coming on whilst the party were engaged in clearing,
the creek they were upon was sent up bank and bank by the storm
water, and barred their further progress. They were therefore
compelled to camp. At sundown it was again nearly dry, but the rain
continued at intervals till midnight. During the day a large low
table-topped mountain was passed about 4 miles to the eastward. It
was either bare of timber or heath clad, and received the name of
Mount Bourcicault. (LXXVIII.) Distance 6 miles. N. by W.
'January' 25.--A ten-mile journey was accomplished to-day, the
country for the first seven having slightly improved into red soil
ridges coarsely grassed, having patches of scrub along their summits.
The remaining three were of the usual character, heath and brushwood,
in the midst of which, in a miserable hole as it is described, they
were obliged to camp. A delay of a couple of hours occured in
consequence of a thunder-storm flooding a narrow gutter that might be
hopped over. It was not until this subsided that the horses and
cattle could be made to face it, the poor brutes having been so
frightened with bogs and water, that the horses had to be led over
the smallest of them. The rain still continued to pour heavily at
intervals during the day. (Camp LXXIX.) No trees to mark. The
course was N. by W.
'January' 26.--After two miles of travelling, the party again
struck the supposed Escape River. The stream was flooded, and at
this point fifty yards wide, and the bed clear of fallen timber. A
bloodwood tree was marked on both sides, on the S. bank. The country
on either side is of a red and white sandy soil, timbered with
bloodwood, mahogany, melaleuca and black and white tea-tree, coarsely
grassed, with heath and scrub running down to the banks in many
places. The river was followed down for 7 or 8 miles, its general
course being N.W., the party having to cut roads for the cattle
through the thick scrubs which lined the tributary creeks and
gullies, in four instances. At this distance a large branch nearly
equal in size, joins it from the south-east, to which the name of the
"McHenry"* was given. It being flooded and deep, the party traced it
upwards for about a mile from its junction and encamped. The tents
being pitched and everything made secure for the night, the Brothers
explored up the stream in search of a good crossing place for the
morrow. After several trials were made, a spot was finally decided
upon, about three-quarters-of-a-mile from the camp, and they returned
with the pleasing prospect of having to swim the cattle and horses
over next day, and carry the packs on their heads. Black and white
cockatoos, some parrots, scrub turkeys ('Talegalla Lathami'), and
white pigeons (Torres Straits), were seen on the march, throughout
which the rain still continued to fall, as it did also during the
night. At this camp (80) the last of the sugar was finished, but
this was not thought much of, as from the latitude being ascertained
to be 11 degrees 10 minutes, it was supposed that Somerset could not
be more than 20 or 30 miles distant. How they were undeceived in
their conjecture, and had their hopes disappointed, will be seen.
[footnote] *After Captain J. McHenry, of Arthur Downs, Isaac River.
'January' 27.--Early this morning the party addressed themselves to
the task of crossing the McHenry. This was accomplished in safety,
cattle and horses taking the water like dogs, the greater difficulty
being in getting over the packs, saddles, and stores, which had to be
carried on the heads of the swimmers of the party, and this necessary
part of a bushman's education was not common to all, or at least
sufficiently to be of use. The course was then continued on the
other side to the junction of the two streams. The rain continued to
fall steadily during most of the day, filling up every little creek
and gutter. Some of the former had to be swum over, whilst the
latter occured at every mile. Just below the junction there is a
large dense vine-scrub, which had to be skirted, after which, the
party continued their course down the supposed Escape, which had now
increased its width to a hundred yards. Its width when first struck,
was only twenty, increasing to forty or fifty at its junction with
the McHenry, when the united streams form an imposing river. Its
course is extremely winding, whilst the numberless creeks and gulleys
which join it, all with scrubby banks, make travelling along its
banks, a work of great labor and difficulty. The country on this
day's march slightly improved, being more open and better grassed,
the best being on the river banks, but coarse and sparse at best.
The timber chiefly bloodwood and black tea-tree. Several trees were
marked with a cross at the crossing place of the McHenry, and one
similarly at the point of the scrub below the junction. In
consequence of the many delays to-day the total distance travelled
was only 5 miles. Course N. by W. (Camp LXXXI.)
'January' 28.--The course of the river was followed down to-day for
about two-and-a-half miles, but the endlessly recurring water
courses, each with its eternal fringe of thick vine scrub, at last
compelled the party to turn to the west in order to avoid them, there
being no time to cut roads for the cattle. They were constantly
getting entangled by the horns in the hanging vines of the 'Calamus
Australis' and 'Flagetlaria', so often referred to. The effect of
this on some was to work them into such a perfect fury, that when
released by the party cutting them clear, they would in some
instances rush blindly away from the herd and be lost, as described
before. The intention on starting was to run the river down to the
head of the tide, and then establish a camp, where the cattle could
stay, whilst the Brothers went on to find Somerset, now supposed to
be not far distant. On leaving the river the course was shaped west,
to head the scrubs on the tributaries, but this, far from improving
the travelling, made it worse as they got into a maze of scrub,
heath, and swamps, through which they had to thread their course.
They, had therefore, to make their way back to the river, which was
again struck in about 7 miles. It was here running north, the bed
free from fallen timber, and about 150 yards wide, and so full and
flooded as to make it impossible to discover whether it was within
the tidal influence or not. Following the river for 4 miles, making
a total journey of 12, the rain pouring the whole day, the party
camped on the bank, where alone grass was to be found, and that even
very poor and thin. Two of the horses "Tabinga," and "Pussey," had
to be left about three miles back from the camp with their saddles,
utterly knocked up. A lame heifer was killed and cut up for jerking,
on the morrow. Course N.W. by N. Distance 12 miles. (Camp LXXXII.)
'January' 29.--This day was devoted to rest, with the exception of
the necessary duties of jerking the beef of the heifer, and preparing
for the start of the Brothers to find Somerset. The horses left
behind were sent for and brought into camp, and dispositions made for
a halt, until the return of the Leader. The packs, saddles, and
stores were "overhauled," and found for the most part to be
completely rotted, from the constant rain and severe duckings they
had undergone, making the party congratulate themselves that they
were near their destination. At the request of Frank Jardine, Mr.
Richardson plotted up the route, as far as this camp, and gave him
his position on the chart, with a note "that camp 82 was on the
Escape River, eight miles in a direct line from where it joins the
sea, and sixteen miles from Somerset." In this, as in the case of
the position of the Lynd, he was mistaken, the reason for which, he
states to be that his sextant was out of order. This was much to be
regretted, as failing the correctness of the surveyor's observations,
Mr. Jardine might just as well trust to his own dead reckoning. It
might be supposed that Mr. Richardson having had an opportunity of
checking his position by the bearing to Cape Grenville, when he
sighted the sea on the 20th inst, at camp 74, should have been able
more accurately to have determined his present position, but he
excuses himself on the score of the difficulty of estimating the
daily distance whilst walking.* This is a very admissable
explanation, considering the tedium and slowness of their progress in
winding through scrubs, and being delayed by crossings, the
tortuousness of their route making it difficult to keep the course.
It was the more unfortunate, therefore, that the sextant, which was
naturally depended upon for keeping them informed of their progress,
should have been allowed to become so deranged, as to be less
reliable than the result of mere dead reckoning.
[footnote] *See his Journal.
CHAPTER V.
First Start in Search of Settlement--Character of the Jardine--
The Eliot--Return to Main Camp--Flooded State of River--
Impromptu Raft--Crossing Horses--Uncertainty--Second Start in
Search of Settlement--View of the Ocean--Reach South Shore of
Newcastle Bay--Reach Mouth of True Escape--Unable to Cross--A
Dainty Meal--Character of the Escape--Return to Main Camp--
Horses Knocked-up--Another Horse Dead--Flour Exhausted--
Wretched Condition of Horses--More Baggage Abandoned--Prospects
--The Whole Party Again Move Forward--Another Horse Abandoned--
Reach Head of Tide View of the Gulf--Barne Island--Return up the
Jardine--Third Start in Search of Settlement--Wild Grape--
Crossing Saddles--a Disappointment--Head the Escape River--Meet
Friendly Natives--Natives Act as Pilots--Native Bread--Canoes
--Corroboree--Native Drums--Arrival at Somerset--Mr. Jardine's
Marked-tree Line--Meeting with their Father--A Heroine.
'January' 30.--This morning, Mr. F. Jardine with his Brother and
the Blackboy, Eulah, started to find the Settlement, leaving the rest
of the party encamped with the cattle, in charge of Mr. Scrutton.
They took with them a week's ration of 25 lbs. of flour, and 12 lbs.
meat (tea and sugar had long been things of the past), intending to
follow the supposed river down to the head of the tide. It was
accordingly followed for about 21 miles, but to their astonishment,
instead of trending N.N.E., its general course was found to be
North-west 1/2 West. This led them to the conclusion that it was a
western water, and not as they had hitherto supposed, the Escape
River. Of this they were now convinced, but to make certain, agreed
to continue travelling down it for two days more, and with this
intent camped on a creek coming in from the southward. The margin of
the river is generally open and coarsely grassed, timbered with
mahogany, bloodwood, and melaleuca, the points of scrubs and
brushwood occasionally closing down to the stream. Its width varies
from one to two-hundred yards, with a sandy bed, entirely free from
fallen timber. Its banks are steep in many places, of white clay and
coarse sandstone, and fringed with tall melaleuca, whose long
drooping branches and leaves swept the rapid and deep stream. A
straight course was impracticable, for as soon as attempted, and the
river was out of sight, the party got entangled in thick brushes and
tea-tree swamps, without a blade of grass. They were obliged,
therefore, to follow the course of the river in all its windings.
The only birds seen were scrub turkeys, and Torres Strait pigeons.
The weather at starting was fine, but about 11 o'clock the rain
commenced, and continued steadily the whole of the day. At night, on
camping, a "bandicoot gunyah" was erected, and covered with the broad
pliable paper bark of the melaleuca, which made a snug shelter for
the night from the still pouring rain. Course generally N.W by W.
Distance following the river, 21 miles.
'January' 31.--Crossing the creek immediately after leaving the
camp, the party still continued to follow the windings of the river
through similar country to that of yesterday, save that the ground
was more boggy, the swamps, ana-branches, and small lagoons more
numerous. On the latter some Coromandel geese were seen, of a
species different from those found near Rockhampton. The heavy rain
which had continued all last night had caused the river to rise
several inches. At about ten miles the progress of the party was
stopped by a large stream coming in from the South-east, about the
same size as the McHenry. A tree was marked AJ at the junction which
was very scrubby, and the new stream received the name of the Eliot.
It was running strongly, and had to be traced up for two miles,
before the party could cross in safety. This they fortunately
accomplished without accident, although the water was up to their
necks, as they waded across with their saddles and packs on their
heads, giving them all they could do to stem the rapid current. They
then proceeded on their way for 7 miles further, the last two of
which were through thick brush, and camped on the bank of the main
stream, now much augmented in size after receiving the waters of the
Eliot. There was but little grass for the poor horses, but no
choice, the country back from the river being all scrubs and swamps,
covered with tea-tree, but barren of grass. The total distance
travelled was 17 miles. The course generally West by South, clearly
proving that they could not be on the Escape.
'February' 1.--The river was again followed for about seven miles
further, but as the course still continued to trend West, and even
south of West, the Brothers in disgust determined on re-tracing their
steps, satisfied, if satisfaction can be predicated of such a
disappointment, that they were on western waters, and that they had
not yet reached the looked-for Escape River. At this point,
therefore, they turned, intending to swim the river at the main camp,
and make another exploration to find the Settlement from the North
side, or right bank. By night-fall they reached their first night's
camp, where they found the "gunyah" very acceptable. They had now
followed the supposed Escape 45 miles; deducting a third for its
sinuosities, a distance of at least 30 miles in a straight line
Westward had been travelled, and they were filled with surprise that
so large and important a stream should have remained undiscovered.
Its width at their turning-point was over two-hundred yards, the
banks commencing to be very swampy, and it is described by Mr. A.
Jardine, as the most compact river, with the exception of the
Fitzroy, he had seen in the North. The rain continued as yesterday
during the whole of the day, accompanied with cold winds. This,
together with their disappointment, was sufficient to depress the
spirits of most men. There is not, however, in the journals of
either of the Brothers the slightest indication of despondency or
complaint.
'February' 2.--The main camp was reached this morning early, and
everything found safe and right, save in one particular, that
deserves recording. In looking over the ration account, Mr. Jardine
found a deficiency of 30 lbs. of flour, accruing in the interval of
the four days of his absence. All denied any knowledge of it, and
all were equally certain that the allowance had not been exceeded;
"so" writes Frank Jardine, "where it is gone to, I am never likely to
know," and there the matter dropped. It is humiliating to think,
that amongst white men banded together in exploring parties, where
the success and safety of the enterprise are much dependent on the
good conduct of each individual member, there should be found
individuals so ignoble, as to appropriate an undue share of the
common stock of food on which the health, and perhaps the life of
each equally depends; and yet, sad to say, such instances are not
singular. The well-proved charge against Gray of cooking flour for
himself privately, for which he was chastised by poor Burke, is one
instance. Gray's excuse was that he was so ill, and his apologists
point to the fact that he subsequently died. Either Burke or Wills
would have died on the spot, rather than have taken an ounce more
than their meanest companion, and yet it has been asked why this man
has had no monument. Again, in the unfortunate expedition of poor
Kennedy (not far from their present camp), the storekeeper of the
partyof the name of Niblett, was discovered to have largely pilfered
from the stores for a considerable time previously. Who knows that,
but for the deficiency his greed caused, more of that ill-fated party
might have held out until the succour arrived, guided by the heroic
black, Jacky, who risked his own life to save that of his master, and
whose name is as worthy of being held up for honour as that of the
white man's for contempt.
'February' 3.--This day was spent by the Brothers with their
black-boys in hunting for a good crossing place, or as they described
it, "doing a little water dogging." The river being two hundred
yards wide, and running rapidly, made it a difficult matter, and
after trying a number of places, it was found that as they were all
alike, deep and wide, they might as well cross opposite the camp.
This would not be without risk and danger, but the exigency of the
party made it necessary. Their flour was nearly exhausted, and they
had nothing else but the jerked meat of the beef they killed, and
what they could catch in the bush, to depend on. In this last,
however, as old hunters and bushmen, they were generally pretty
successful, supplementing and eking out their ordinary rations very
largely. The day previous their larder had been recruited by three
iguanas' eggs, a brush turkey ('Megapodius Tumulus'), and nine
turkeys' eggs. The rain came down as usual at intervals during the
day, which, added to the almost incessant rain of the four previous
days, brought the river down during the night, increasing its volume
and current so much as to make it dangerous to attempt crossing.
'February' 4.--The river being too high to cross, the start for the
Settlement was postponed, the fagged horses getting the benefit of
the delay. A beast was killed in the evening. The weather clearing,
Mr. Richardson was enabled to get correct observations for the
latitude, having succeeded in putting his sextant into tolerable
adjustment. The readings gave the latitude of camp 82 to be 11
degrees 11 minutes 39 seconds, or about 33 miles south from Cape
York. Part of the day was employed in constructing a raft to float
over the saddles, rations, etc. This was done by stretching a hide
over a frame of wood, but not without some trouble, as it was found
that the only wood light enough for the purpose, was dead nonda, and
this being scarce, had to be searched for. Before evening, however,
a raft was finished sufficiently light for the purpose.
'February' 5.--The river having sunk considerably during the night,
the crossing was commenced this morning, despite the downpour of
rain, which lasted all day without a break. The stream was one
hundred and thirty yards wide, the banks fringed with scrub and
vines, and the current still running rapidly. It required therefore
strong and expert swimmers to get the horses across, the method being
as follows:--One of the party went in first with a line made fast
to the bit of the horse's bridle, and another followed, holding on to
his tail by way of rudder. Now as a horse can swim faster than a
man, and is of course heavier in the water, the leader has no easy
task even if the horse swim honestly for the opposite bank, but
should he turn back or boggle at all, man and line are alike
powerless; the use of the rudder therefore will be seen. When the
leader reaches the opposite bank, he has to scramble up nimbly, or he
may have the horse on him, and arrived there, be in readiness with
the line to assist him should he get entangled in the saplings and
vines which fringe the banks. It will be remembered that in crossing
the Batavia on the 11th January, two horses were drowned, in spite of
every care and precaution. Here, however, they were fortunate enough
to cross their four horses without accident, Mr. Scrutton, old Eulah,
and the black-boys doing good service, being all excellent swimmers.
The saddles and rations were then floated over in the raft, also
without accident, and the advanced party (the Brothers and Eulah)
camped on the north side, leaving the remainder of the party and
cattle in charge of Mr. Scrutton. Even now, Frank Jardine was
uncertain as to what stream they were on, and still leaned to the
belief that it was the Escape, his faith in the result of the
observations, having been shaken by the accident to the sextant.
They failed to assist him in his opinion, which was sorely puzzled by
the river running westward. He considered it, therefore, absolutely
necessary to find the Settlement before moving the cattle forward,
his horses being so weak, as to make it useless to travel on in
uncertainty. The necessity for reaching their journey's end was
becoming urgent, for their tea and sugar were exhausted, their flour
nearly so, and some of the party were complaining of being unwell,
and getting very weak.
'February' 6.--The second start was made this morning, the Brothers
intending to find either the Settlement or the mouth of the Escape.
Their course for the first 15 miles was N.N.East, over barren white
sandy country, covered with brushwood and scrub. At 7 miles a large
deep running creek was crossed, running westward. Its south bank was
so densely covered with vine scrub, that they had to walk and cut
their way through it with their tomahawks. After crossing it, the
country suddenly changed to thickly timbered sandy ridges, some being
rocky, of course sandstone, the more elevated ones having belts of
impenetrable scrub running along their crest. At 12 miles a fine
sheet of water was passed, surrounded by sandy coarsely-grassed
ridges. At 15 miles, from a line of high ridges forming a
saddle-range, they had a view of the ocean, and could distinguish a
few small islands out to sea. It might have been seen sooner but for
the drizzling rain which fell with little intermission. The range
was of red soil, timbered with bloodwood, and stringy-bark. Two
miles further on the country improved still more, continuing from
thence into their camp, 6 miles. The course was altered from the
range to N. by E., and at 20 miles a white hill was reached, from
which they looked down on the sea about half-a-mile distant beneath
them. This was Newcastle Bay. Turning westward and skirting the
coast, they travelled 3 miles further on, and camped on a palm creek,
with very steep banks. Large flocks of the Torres Strait pigeons
flew over in the evening. Distance travelled 23 miles.
'February' 7.--The good country traversed yesterday ceased at a
creek half-a-mile from the camp, on crossing which the party had to
cut their way as usual, after which the course skirting the coast lay
over a villainous country, boggy swamps, brushwood and scrub. After
travelling 7 or 8 miles their progress was arrested by a large stream
three-quarters-of-a-mile in width, running rapidly from the W.N.W.
Its banks were low and muddy, covered with a wide belt of dense
mangroves, its muddy and swollen waters carrying down quantities of
rubbish. This they correctly surmised to be the mouth of the
veritable "Escape" but Frank Jardine was again in error in supposing
it to be the same stream that they had left the cattle on. Seeing so
large a stream he naturally reverted to the idea that it had turned
on itself, and that their first exploration had stopped before
reaching the turning point. His case was dispiriting in the extreme.
The main camp was not more than 15 miles in latitude south of his
present position. The Settlement, the long-wished end of their
journey, could not be more than 20 to the North, yet his progress was
arrested by a broad and rapid river, to head the supposed bend of
which he had ineffectually travelled nearly 50 miles. His plan was
now to follow the Escape up in hopes of being able to cross at the
head of the tide, and so reach Somerset, but this, as will be seen,
was more easily planned than executed. Following up the course of
the river the way lay over a country which Alexander Jardine mentions
in his notes as "too bad to describe," pandanus swamps, vine scrubs,
and small creeks swollen by the rains to a swimmable depth,
succeeding one another along the whole stage. At the latter the
horses had always to be unpacked and their saddles taken over on the
heads of the party. Three hours were consumed in cutting their way
through the last of the vine scrubs, when they camped on the outside,
three of the horses being completely knocked up. The Brothers then
walked to the river in hopes of finding a crossing place. This
however, proved hopeless. A thick matted fringe of mangroves nearly
three miles wide intervened between them and its bank, through which
it was next to impossible to make any headway. Their supper to-night
was augmented by a lucky "find" during the day of thirteen scrub
turkeys' eggs, which, though they would scarcely have been
appreciated at an ordinary breakfast table, were very acceptable to
tired and hungry travellers existing principally on jerked beef.
Eating what yolk or white they contained, they plucked and roasted
the chicks as a "bonne-bouche." Fires had to be kept going day and
night to drive away, and protect the poor miserable horses from the
march and sand-flies by day, and mosquitoes by night. These were, in
fact, the principal cause of the poverty and debility of the poor
brutes, who could never get a moment's rest to feed or sleep.
Twenty-two miles were accomplished to-day, despite their difficulties.
'February' 8.--The journey was continued to-day up the Escape, the
course of which was very crooked, but generally N.W. by N. The
horses knocked up a few miles after starting. The party were
therefore obliged to walk and drive them before them. The country
traversed was similar to that of yesterday, so that they could not
get more than a-mile-and-a-half an hour out of the poor jaded beasts.
Three times they tried to make into the river bank, but without
success, from the great width and the density of the belt of
mangroves, and the soft mud. An old black's camp was passed in which
they found heaps of shells, turtle, and shark bones. In the evening
they caught a quantity of whelks and cockles, which, with an iguana,
and three turkeys' eggs, made a good supper.
'February' 9.--The course of the river to-day was even more crooked
than yesterday, the nature of the country continuing the same, save
that the swampy ground was occasionally broken by ridges of
bloodwood, and stringy-bark. From a tree on one of these they had a
fine view of Newcastle Bay, and what was supposed to be Mount
Adolphus Island, the latter about 25 miles away, and could trace the
course of the river to where it debouched, by the stretch of
mangroves. Here, therefore, they were within 20 miles of their
destination, which they were tantalised by seeing, without being able
to reach. With difficulty they drove their horses before them for 7
miles, when they turned out and camped, as well to hunt, as again to
try and reach the river. In the first they were pretty successful,
getting some turkeys' eggs and shell-fish, but the last they were
unable to do, mud and mangroves barring their way, whilst the salt
water proved to them that they were still within the influence of the
tide, and the stream was still between three and four hundred yards
wide. Despairing of being able to find a crossing to which they
could fetch the cattle, their horses being unable to cross the river,
to continue the search for Somerset in advance, and their scanty
provision of flour being nearly exhausted, Frank Jardine, reluctantly
abandoning the idea of getting into the Settlement, determined to
return to the cattle, and with them, head the supposed bend of the
Escape. Disheartening as this was, there was nothing else to be done
in the present state of the country. Distance travelled, 7 miles
westerly.
'February' 10.--Turning their backs on the mangroves and swamps of
the Escape River, the little party faced for the camp, steering
S.S.E. The first four miles was through boggy, swampy country,
through which they walked, driving their horses before them. The
remainder was over the usual iron-bark and bloodwood ridges, fairly
grassed with coarse grasses, intersected with swamps and belts of scrub,
through one of which they were three hours in forcing their way two
miles. After 11 miles of this kind of travelling they camped, the
horses completely knocked up, the men in not much better condition,
having had to drag the horses out of bogs several times, besides
cutting through the hanging vines of the scrubs. Distance 12 miles.
'February' 11.--The main camp was reached to-day, after another
fatiguing journey of 11 or 12 miles, the first 6 miles similar to
that of yesterday, the remainder through heath and brushwood. It was
sundown before they reached the river, which they found much swollen.
A heavy thunder-shower of two hours' duration, put up all the creeks
bank high, one of which, at about two miles from the river, they had
to swim across. Having struck it immediately opposite the camp, they
left their jaded horses with their saddles on the north side, and
swam across themselves to the party. During their absence another of
the horses, "Pussey," had died from exhaustion.
'February' 12.--The meat at the camp being all consumed, it became
necessary to halt for a couple of days, in order to kill and jerk a
beast. The flour too was now exhausted, save 10 lbs., which was
judiciously put by and reserved for an emergency. The day was spent
in crossing back the four horses, with saddles and swags. The cattle
were counted and some found missing; the Black-boys were therefore
sent in search of them. A beast was killed, cut up, and jerked, a
tedious task, from the absence of the sun. Although there were only
a few light showers towards evening, the air was damp; the meat,
therefore, had to be smoked under a covering.
'February' 13.--The lost cattle were found to-day, the jerking of
the meat finished, and preparations for a final start on the morrow
completed. The unfortunate horses were in such wretched condition,
that it was found necessary to lighten the loads to the Settlement.
Four pack-saddles, two police saddles, and the two belonging to the
Brothers were therefore abandoned, with the remainder of the odds and
ends. The prospect before them was not very bright. With no
provision save jerked meat, and with knocked-up horses, they were
starting on a journey of at least 100 miles, when their destination
was not more than 30 miles away from them. they hoped to head the
bend of the river they were on (having reverted to the opinion that
it was the Escape), without knowing how far beyond the lowest point
of their first exploration this turning-point might be, or what
obstructions might be a-head of them. On the other hand, the whole
of the party were without sickness, and they had plenty of cattle to
eat.
'February' 14.--A final start was made this morning from camp 82,
of dreary memory, after a good deal of trouble in packing, choosing
and rejecting what was too heavy or useless, and the other delays
attendant on the breaking up of an established camp. The river was
followed for 11 miles with the usual amount of bogging and
difficulty, in crossing the small trench-like creeks already
mentioned. In one of these they were compelled to abandon another
horse (Tabinga). The poor brute fell in trying to cross, and when
pulled out and set on his legs was too weak to stand. He had to be
left, therefore, saddle and all. Another (Pussy) having died at the
last camp, their number was now reduced to thirteen. Their loads
were reduced to the slightest possible, and consisted merely of the
jerked meat, the ammunition, and swags of the party. Distance 11
miles. (Camp LXXXIII.)
'February' 15.--A gloomy morning with light showers, 10 miles were
accomplished to-day. Three hours were consumed in crossing one of
the boggy gullies. Every horse had to be unpacked, and half of them
had to be pulled across with ropes. The pack of another horse (Lady
Scott) had to be abandoned. She was too weak to carry even the empty
saddle. The camp was pitched in the angle formed by the large creek
running into the river just below the gunyah camp of their first
trip, mentioned January 30th. (Camp LXXXIV.)
'February' 16.--The Eliot was reached to-day 8 miles from the camp.
It had fallen considerably, but was still too high to allow of
crossing without taking off the packs. It was about thirty yards
wide, and running clear, about five feet deep, where the party
crossed. The camp was pitched on the main stream two miles further,
making a total of 10 miles for the day's journey. (Camp LXXXV.
Nonda.)
'February' 17.--The lowest camp of the Brothers on their first trip
was passed to-day at about 6 miles. The total distance they
estimated they had travelled down the river on that occasion was 40
to 45 miles, as it will be remembered that they went 6 or 7 miles
beyond this camp on the 1st of February. The true distance to the
turning point by Mr. Richardson's reckoning, was estimated at 35
miles, which is probably correct. Mr. Richardson in his journal of
to-day's date says, "they told me they had travelled 20 miles North
and 30 miles West." A glance at sheet No. 14 will shew this to have
been an error; and in a foot-note at February 2nd, he states, "I
afterwards found that these distances were incorrect. The true
distances West and North respectively from the 82nd camp to the point
in our track where the Leader turned back, are about 24 miles W. and
7 N." Now, considering the tortuous course of the river, the nature
of the country, the weather, and obstacles of the creeks, 6 miles is
not a great error in westing. Mr. Richardson's own reckoning,
generally, despite his advantage over the Brothers, in having nothing
to do but follow the cattle, was not more to be depended upon, whilst
the results of his observations by the sextant were not so much so,
as he naively informs us he did not think he error in Latitude was
more than 15 miles! It appears evident therefore that the dead
reckoning of the explorers was of equal, if not greater value, as far
as the journey was concerned, than the surveyor's, the chief result
and use of whose presence in the party is, that we have been
furnished with a very excellent and interesting map of the route; but
it by no means assisted the Leader in the piloting of the Expedition,
or resolved his doubts when at fault, either at this point or on
leaving the Einasleih in search of the Lynd. The party camped at the
end of about two miles on the right bank of a broad deep creek
running in from S.W., when after turning out, some of them went
fishing, but only one small cat-fish was caught.
'February' 18.--A slight rain fell during last night, but cleared
off before morning. The creek was crossed at about a mile from the
camp, cattle, horses, and men having to swim. The former took it
like water-dogs, and the latter had as usual to carry their saddles,
packs, and "traps" over on their heads. After ten miles of
travelling over poorly-grassed stringy-bark ridges, the country
resumed its old character of swamp, brushwood, and low scrubby banks,
flooded for four or five feet, the overflow filling swamps running
parallel, and about two or three hundred yards distant from the
river. This was followed during the day's march, and they were
elated with the hope that they had at length reached the much wished
for bend, the course being slightly to the eastward of north. It was
Mr. Jardine's intention to have again halted the party when they
reached this point, and once more pushed forward in search of
Somerset, but they were out of meat, and the party had started
without breakfast, there being nothing to eat. He therefore camped
at the end of 10 miles to kill a beast. there were a good many
delays during the march, chiefly to pull the exhausted horses out of
the constantly recurring bogs. Poor "Lady Scott" especially was with
great difficulty got into camp. Distance 10 miles, N. 1/2 E. (Camp
LXXXVII. Bloodwood)
'February' 19.--To-day was chiefly devoted to rest, and the cutting
up, jerking, and smoking of the beef by the whites, the black-boys,
after the manner of their race, dividing it pretty equally between
sleeping and stuffing. The meat curing was as usual a slow process,
there being no salt, and a gunyah having to be made to smoke it in.
The river was here first observed to have a rise and fall in it of
about six inches. Its width was about a quarter of a mile.
The latitude of this camp (87) is 11 degrees 11 minutes 13 seconds
The latitude of camp (82) is 10 degrees 58 minutes 2 seconds
The Northing therefore equals 13 minutes 11 seconds
'February' 20.--It commenced to rain at two o'clock this morning,
and continued heavily as the party started. The river again turned
to the Westward, to their great disappointment. The course was
continued along it for 9 miles, when they were brought to a
stand-still by a deep creek with boggy banks, twenty yards wide,
flowing from the South. It was evidently affected by the tide, as
the water was slightly brackish and the edge fringed by a species of
mangrove. A crossing-place was looked for without success, and the
camp was finally pitched, as the rain was pouring heavily. (Camp
LXXXVIII.)
'February' 21.--This morning the Brothers, taking old Eulah with
them, swam across the creek, alligators notwithstanding, and walked
to the top of a high stringy-bark ridge on the south side. Selecting
the highest tree he could find (a bloodwood) Alexander Jardine
ascended it with Eulah, and from its top branches got a view that
finally dispelled the doubts as to their position, and the identity
of the stream they had traced down. Before him, at about 3 miles
distant lay the mouth of the river, about 2 miles wide. Its course
could without difficulty be traced from where they were till it
debouched into the Gulf waters opposite a small island, which was
easily recognized as Barn Island, whilst to the North, Endeavour
Straits, and Prince of Wales Island could be distinctly seen. It was
now perfectly plain that the river they had followed was not the
Escape. They had therefore, been deceived a second time. It
received the very appropriate name of Deception, but has since, by
the direction of his Excellency Sir George Bowen, been charted, and
is now known by the name of the Jardine. Descending from his perch,
after half-an-hour spent in taking bearings by the compass to the
different points of interest, Mr. Jardine joined his brother, who at
once determined to return to camp 87, it being impossible to cross
where they were. Re-crossing the creek, they rejoined the party,
reaching the camp at sun-set, under a heavy downpour of rain.
'February' 22.--Although it was raining heavily with every
appearance of a continuance, the party started to return up the river
in excellent spirits. The Brothers were now certain that they should
have no difficulty in finding the Settlement on their next trip.
They were, however, very much puzzled as to where such a large stream
as the Escape was found to be, should rise. They now re-traced their
steps, and camped close to their last camp LXXXVII. Six miles.
'February' 23.--To-day was spent in killing and jerking a beast,
and preparing for the Leader's third start in search of the
Settlement. The rain poured down heavily, causing the river to rise
very fast. Another raft similar to that made at camp 83, had to be
constructed, a work of some time, for the only wood fit for making
the frame was dry nonda, which was scarce. The rain too, very much
impeded the drying of the beef, for which, as usual, a bark gunyah
had to be erected. Everything, however, was got well forward for the
important business of crossing the next morning.
'February' 24.--The horses, saddles, and rations were all crossed
in safety to-day, though not without difficulty. In swimming the
horses particular care had to be taken, for there was only one small
spot on the other side at which they could be landed. As explained
on the 5th, on the occasion of the second start, it requires a strong
swift swimmer to lead a horse across a stream, and in this the white
men, or at least, three of them, were much superior to the
black-boys, who, although all good swimmers, were much more efficient
in the service of the raft. This only illustrates the rule that most
white men can beat the aboriginal in swimming fast, whilst the latter
has superior endurance; but there is no doubt, that under the same
conditions of education and practice, the civilized white man is
superior to the savage in any physical function or exercise. The
rain poured down consistently during the whole of the day, and a cold
cutting wind drove the swimming party at intervals to the fires,
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