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These now coming much too close to be pleasant (for some of them were
thrown a hundred yards), the three turned suddenly on their pursuers,
and galloping up to them, poured in a volley, the report of which
brought down their companions from the camp, when the skirmish became
general. The natives at first stood up courageously, but either by
accident or through fear, despair or stupidity, they got huddled in a
heap, in, and at the margin of the water, when ten carbines poured
volley after volley into them from all directions, killing and
wounding with every shot with very little return, nearly all of their
spears having been expended in the pursuit of the horsemen. About
thirty being killed, the Leader thought it prudent to hold his hand,
and let the rest escape. Many more must have been wounded and
probably drowned, for fifty nine rounds were counted as discharged.
On the return of the party to the cattle an incident occurred which
nearly cost one of them his life. One of the routed natives,
probably burning with revengeful and impotent hate, got into the
water under the river bank, and waited for the returning party, and
as they passed threw a spear at Scrutton, before any one was aware of
his proximity. The audacious savage had much better have left it
alone, for he paid for his temerity with his life. Although the
travellers came off providentially without hurt, there were many
narrow escapes, for which some of them might thank their good
fortune. At the commencement of the fight as Alexander Jardine was
levelling his carbine, a spear struck the ground between his feet,
causing him to drop his muzzle, and lodge the bullet in the ground a
few yards in front of him. His next shot told more successfully.
There were other equally close shaves, but providentially not a
scratch. This is one of the few instances in which the savages of
Queensland have been known to stand up in fight with white men, and
on this occasion they shewed no sign of surprise or fear at the
report and effect of fire-arms. But it is probable that they will
long remember the "Battle of the Mitchell." (Camp LXIV.) Course
N.N.W. Distance 7 miles.
'December' 19.--The horses had to be watched last night, for the
grass was so dry and course that the stock would not look at it, but
kept rambling about. The river was followed down about 13 miles.
The whole country travelled to-day and yesterday shewed flood marks
from 5 to 15 feet high. The rushes, nardoo, thatch, and water-grass,
dried and parched by the hot winds, were matted together with mud and
rubbish. At the camp the stream was 150 yards wide, the running
water being 30 yards across. The banks were of clay and sandstone,
from 20 to 30 feet high, the water was discolored to a kind of
yellowish white. During the floods the stream must be eight or ten
miles wide, for, two miles back from it, a fish weir was seen in a
small gully.
Altogether it would have been a frightful place for the party to have
been detained at. (Camp XLV.) Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 5
seconds.
'December' 20.--The river was still followed down to-day, the party
keeping about four miles from it, to avoid its scrubs and
ana-branches. At between 7 or 8 miles, a stream about 100 yards
wide, coming from the eastward, caused them to halt until a road was
cut through the thick vine scrub that fringed its banks. Four miles
further on they camped at a small lagoon close to the bank of the
river, at which point it is about 100 yards wide, deep, and too salt
for drinking, being affected by the tide. The country travelled over
was box, and tea-tree, melon-hole flats, shewing very high flood
marks. The ground had become very boggy from a heavy rain that fell
during the day. The night was very stormy, rain and wind falling and
blowing pretty equally. Two more head of cattle were dropped. The
total distance was 11 miles. Course W.N.W. (Camp XLVI.)
'December' 21.--The rain of last night continuing through the
morning, the party had to start in the down-pour. They crossed
another large shallow sandy creek at four miles, coming from the
eastward running south-east. The camp was formed on a lagoon about a
mile from the river bank. The country traversed was sandy, growing
only coarse wirey grasses and spinifex, sandstone rock cropping out
occasionally above the surface. The river was here a
quarter-of-a-mile wide, salt, and running strongly. Before the
pack-horses came up, a mob of blacks approached the camp, and getting
up in the trees, took a good survey of the white intruders, but on
one of the party going towards them they scampered off over the open
ground towards the river. The recollection of the affair at the
crossing place probably quickening their movements. Just at
sun-down, however, the sharp eyes of the black-boys detected some of
them actually trying to stalk the whites, using green boughs for
screens. So the Brothers taking with them Scrutton and the four
black-boys, started in chase. They were in camp costume, that is to
say, shirt and belt, and all in excellent condition and wind, and now
a hunt commenced, which perhaps stands alone in the annals of nature
warfare. On being detected the natives again decamped, but this time
closely pursued. The party could at any time overtake or outstep the
fugitives, but they contented themselves with pressing steadilly on
them, in open order, without firing a shot, occasionally making a
spurt, which had the effect of causing the blacks to drop nearly all
their spears. They fairly hunted them for two miles into the scrub,
when, as darkness was coming on, they left their dingy assailants to
recover their wind, and returned to camp laughing heartily at their
"blank run," and taking with them as many of the abondoned spears as
they could carry. (Camp XLVII.) Distance 9 1/2 miles. Course W.N.W.
'December' 22.--The Mitchell was left finally to-day, Mr. Jardine
determining on beginning the "straight running" for Cape York. The
first 8 miles was to a broad rocky creek, over tea-tree and box
flats, and small plains, fairly grassed, the best coast country that
had been seen. The creek appeared to be permanent, although there
was no water where it was crossed. From thence to camp, 7 miles, was
over saline plains, intersected by belts of bloodwood, tea-tree,
mangrove, nuptle, grevillea, dogwood, applegum, silky oak, and
pandanus. A second creek was crossed at 11 miles, similar to the
first. The camp was pitched at a puddle, without a blade of grass,
although its appearance was beautifully green, caused by a small sort
of tea-tree growing in great abundance, about 10 inches high, with
seven or eight large leaves on it. A steer was killed in the
evening, giving the party a very acceptable meal of meat, the first
they had tasted for three days, the weather being too hot to kill,
and there being no game to shoot. Course N. by W. Distance 15
miles. (Camp XLVIII.) Latitude 15 degrees 2 minutes 10 seconds.
'December' 23.--All hands were up almost the whole of last night,
some engaged in watching the cattle and horses, and others in cutting
up and jerking the beast. The rain came down heavily, and a cold
bitter wind was blowing; all the tents, save the ration tent, being
like seives, the outside was rather preferable to their shelter; so
each passed the night as best they could. The cattle were started
away in the morning, leaving Scrutton and Binney to finish jerking
the meat, there being some sunshine, which was beginning to be a
rarity, for the wet season had now fairly set in. Twelve miles of
wretched country were traversed, white sandy undulating ground,
clothed with shrubs and underwood, in the place of grass, and the
camp pitched on a low stringy-bark ridge, without water, for in this
flat sandy country the ground absorbs the rain as soon as it falls.
The horses had to be watched again to-night, for there was not a
blade of grass to be got. A small quantity of water was found in a
creek about a mile-and-a-half ahead. Late in the evening the horses
and water-bags were taken to it, and sufficient water brought back
for the use of the camp. Two small unimportant creeks were crossed
to-day, sandy and dry, trending west. Distance 12 miles N.W. by N.
(Camp XLIX.)
'December' 24.--The cattle were watched at a small lagoon beyond the
creek before mentioned, which was deep and rocky. The country
continued of the same miserable character as yesterday, till at 7
miles, the party came to a belt of bloodwood and stringy-bark, where,
by good luck, there was a little coarse grass, but as the stock had
had none for two days, they were not particular. (Camp L.) Distance
7 miles. Course N.N.W.
'December' 25.--The rain came down all last night, and continuing
throughout the day (for the first time continually), did not suggest
a merry Christmas. However the Leader wished his companions the
compliments of the season, and pushed on. The country decidedly
improved if the weather did not. The tail end of some scrubs were
passed in the first five miles, cheifly tea-tree and oak, and
half-a-mile further on, a fine creek of sandstone rock, permenantly
watered; at 7 miles another similar, but larger, was named Christmas
Creek. Here whilst Mr. Jardine was halting in wait for the cattle,
he marked a tree XMAS, 1864, in square. In it the swamp mahogany was
seen for the first time since leaving Bowen. Its native name is
Belourgah. The creek was therefore christened by that name. At 15
miles the party reached and camped on a fine, well-watered, rocky
creek, where the blue grass was plentiful, the first that had been
seen for many weeks. The country travelled over was very soft, and
though driven loose, three of the horses could scarcely travel over
it. The packs also were getting into a very dirty state, consequent
on the amount of mud and water they had been dragged through. The
timber noticed to-day was very varied, comprising all the kinds that
have already been mentioned, with the addition of the banksia, which
was observed for the first time, and a kind of pomegranate, which was
quite new to the Brothers. The trees grow large with soft white
bark, and large round leaves. The fruit as large as an hen's egg, in
shape like the common pomegranate. Unripe it is of a transparent
white, but when mature, has a dark pink color and slightly acid
taste. It is probably the euginia mentioned by Leichhardt. They
were much annoyed by the green-tree ant, all the trees and shrubs
being covered with them, in riding along they got about their
persons, and down their backs, where they stuck like ticks. They are
of a transparent green, nearly half-an-inch long, soft, and sticky.
On coming to the green feed and good water at the camp, it was felt
that this Christmas Day, if not the most cheerful, might have been
much worse. (Camp LI.) Distance 13 miles N.N.W.
'December' 26,--The party travelled to-day on a course N.N.W. for
about 14 miles over very similar country to that of yesterday, save
that they crossed no creek, and saw no water during the whole of the
stage. Some of the ground was very scrubby and boggy, and better,
though not well grassed, too much spear grass occuring. The camp was
pitched on a splendid sheet of water, in a rocky creek, 80 yards
wide, and very long, in which some of the party caught some fine
fish. Waterfowl of all kinds were also numerous. It received the
name of Hearsey Creek, after a particular friend, Mr. W. Hearsey
Salmon. The blacks were hanging about, but did not make their
appearance. (Camp LII.)
'December' 27.--The course to-day lay over similar country, a little
to the west of north, for 16 miles to a small creek, which contained
in a puddle, just sufficient water for the use of the party and the
horses. The cattle had to go without. (Camp LIII.)
'December' 18.--At five miles from starting this morning, the
thirsty cattle were able to get abundance of water in a long sandy
creek, running in several channels, and having a rocky sandstone bed.
It was named Holroyd Creek. Two miles further on another stream was
crossed of similar size and character, which received the name of
Dunsmuir Creek. Here the country suddenly changed into lightly
timbered box flats, poorly grassed, and flooded. Four miles more
brought them to a salt-water creek, which had to be run up
a-mile-and-a-half before drinkable water was found. The camp was
pitched on a lotus lagoon, the water of which was slightly brackish.
It received the name of Thalia Creek. About two hours after camping,
whilst the party were engaged in digging trenches round them, and
otherwise preparing for an impending thunder-storm, the black-boy
that was tailing the cattle, came running into the camp in great
excitement, with the news that the natives that had been seen in the
morning, had hunted him and were now running the horses, so half the
party immediately turned out in pursuit. To protect the carbines
from the coming storm, Alexander Jardine and Scrutton arrayed
themselves the one in a black and the other a white mackintosh, which
reached to their heels, whilst the Leader having a short coat on, a
revolver in each pocket, jumped on to the bare-back of one of the
horses. This time it was not a "blank run." The horses were
scuttling about in all directions, and the natives waited for the
whites, close to a mangrove scrub, till they got within sixty yards
of them, when they began throwing spears. They were answered with
Terry's breech-loaders, but whether fascinated by the strange attire
of the three whites, or frightended by the report of the fire-arms,
or charge of the horse, they stood for some time unable to fight or
run. At last they slowly retired in the scrub, having paid for their
gratuitious attack by the loss of some of their companions. Some of
them were of very large stature. The storm broke with great violence
accompanied with thunder and lightning and scattered the cattle off
the camp in spite of the efforts of the party to keep them. The
thunder caused them to rush about, whilst darkness caused the
watchers to run against them, and add to their fright. So they were
let go. (Camp LIV.) Distance 11 or 12 miles north.
'December' 29.--The cattle were all gathered this morning, save 10,
for which Frank Jardine left two of the black-boys to seek and then
follow the party. To his great annoyance they came on at night
without them. The course to-day was N.N.E. over boggy tea-tree
flats, and low stringy-bark ridges. At three miles a large running
creek, one hundred yards wide, was struck, and had to be followed up
for four miles before a crossing was found. Four miles further
brought them to a small creek, well supplied with water from the
recent rains, and what was even more acceptable, plenty of green
feed, of which the cattle and horses stood in great need. The Leader
determined to halt here one day, to try and recover the lost cattle,
but felt anything but easy in doing so, for the flood-marks were six
feet high on the camp, which was high ground compared to the level
waste around them, and the rains seemed fairly to have set in.
Another heavy storm poured down on them at night. (Camp LV.)
'December' 30.--The cattle remained here to-day, whilst Scrutton and
Eulah were sent back for the lost cattle. The Brothers went forward
a day's stage to try and find some high ground. In this they did not
succeed. The country was all alike, and they were satisfied beyond
doubt that it must be one sea during the rains; not a very comforting
discovery. They found a creek four miles on, which received the name
of Macleod Creek. It was large and deep, with a strong current
running, and chose a place at which they would have to cross, between
two high banks of red sandstone. They then returned to camp, and
spent the rest of the day in "sugar bag" hunting, in which they were
very successful, bringing in as much as made a feed for the whole
camp, which was no small quantity. Scrutton and Eulah returned at
dark, without having seen any traces of the missing cattle, so it was
determined to go on without them, as it would have been madness to
have remained longer in such dangerous country. At night they
experienced a heavy storm, which is thus described in Frank Jardine's
journal:--"We had one of most severe wind and thunder storms this
evening that I ever saw. The largest trees bent like whip-sticks,
and the din caused by the wind, rain, thunder, and trees falling,
beyond description. People looking at it from under a snug roof
would have called it 'grand,' but we rhymed it with a very different
word." This may be called a "joke under difficulties."
'December' 31.--Macleod Creek was reached by half-past eight o'clock
this morning, and cattle, horses, and packs were all safely crossed
by 9.15. The journey was then continued over, or rather, through
very boggy tea-tree flats, and undulating stringy-bark, nonda, and
bloodwood country, to a large flooded creek, coming from the
eastward, which received the name of "Kendall Creek," after a friend
of Mr. Richardson's. There was a little rising ground on its banks,
on which the party camped. Frank Jardine went up it for a few miles,
and found a spot at which to cross the next day, in the same manner
as at the last. At this camp some capital barramundi and perch were
caught, one of the former weighing no less than 14 pounds. They were
a great treat, as the party had been without meat for some days, the
heavy rains allowing them no chance of killing. The distance
travelled to-day was 12 miles, and course generally N.N.W., but the
track was winding in consequence of having to lead the horses, and
thread the way through the soundest looking places. (Camp LVI.)
CHAPTER IV
New Year's Day--Sinclair Creek--New Year's Creek--Kinloch Creek -
Micketeeboomulgeiai--The River Archer--The Coen--Slough of Despond
- River Batavia--Two Horses Drowned--Five Horses Poisoned -
Symptoms--Abandon Baggage--Cache--Party commence Walking -
Difficult Travelling--Two more Horses Die--Last Encounter with
Natives--Pandanus Thorns--Another Horse Sickens--Urgency of
Getting Forward--Dalhunty Creek--Another Horse Dies--"Creamy" and
"Rocket" Die--Skardon's Creek--Pitcher Plant--Two Saddles
Abandoned--Nell Gwynne's Foal Killed--Richardson's Range.
'January' 1.--Kendall Creek was crossed early on the morning of
this, New Year's Day, and subsequently at distances of 10 and 14
miles, two small creeks of running water, coming from the eastward,
named respectively Sinclair and New Year's Creeks, in which lilies
were abundant ('Blue Nympheas'), and on the last of which the party
camped. The progress was rendered very tedious and difficult, by the
large trunks and branches of trees, which had been blown down by the
storm of the 30th December, over and amongst which the weak horses
kept constantly falling. The country changed into red sandy ridges,
shewing an outcrop of sandstone, timbered with tall straight saplings
of stringy-bark and bloodwood, the larger timber having in all cases
been blown down. Some grass-tree country was also passed, covered
with quartz pebbles, white, or colored with oxide of iron. The
distance accomplished was 14 miles on a course of N.E. by N. (Camp
LVII. Nonda.) A heavy thunder-storm broke at night, followed by
steady rain.
'January' 2.--The heavy rain, boggy soil, and recent long stages
made it necessary to turn out the cattle during the last night, as
the poor animals had so little chance of feeding during the day.
They were, however, gathered by the time the horses were ready in the
morning, having, probably, but little temptation to stray on the
boggy ground. The country traversed was similar to that of
yesterday, and very much encumbered with fallen timber. The grasses,
though thin, are of the best quality. Altogether the interval
between Kendall Creek and to-night's camp, a distance of 30 miles,
would make a fine cattle run, being watered at every six or seven
miles by running creeks, besides a large swamp. It was found to be
an extensive plateau, sloping away to the eastward, terminating
abruptly in a perpendicular wall, overlooking the valley, on the head
of which the party camped. The camp was one of the best of the whole
journey, being pitched on a grassy rise, sloping gently to the
eastward, and was a grateful relief after the barren and waterless
camps of the journey. The latitude was 13 degrees 47 seconds.
Distance 16 miles. (Camp LVIII.)
'January' 3.--This morning the creek was followed down to near its
junction with a large sandy stream, coming from the north-east, which
was named Kinloch Creek, in honor of John Kinloch, Esq., Mathematical
Master of Sydney College. It was plentifully watered, and remarkable
for presenting the only iron-bark trees that were seen since leaving
the Einasleih. At 8 and 12 miles, two small very boggy creeks were
crossed, the first of which had to be bridged. Their banks were very
unsound and swampy, covered with tea-tree, pandanus, ferns, and all
kinds of valueless underwood. They were full of lilies, and appeared
to be constantly running, from which it was conjectured that they
must take their rise from springs. On passing the last, the party
emerged on to poorly grassed, desolate-looking sandstone ridges,
covered with grass-tree and zamia. A pine-tree ridge was then
passed, and a camp formed on a small water-course beyond, the total
distance being 16y miles on a bearing of N.N.E. 1/2 N. The latitude
was ascertained to be 13 degrees 35 minutes 54 seconds S. During the
day red kangaroos were seen, also the Torres Straits pigeon, and two
black cockatoos, with very large stiff crest, crimson cheeks, and
large black bill, the rest of the body black. This was the
('Microglossus Aterrimus'), a species peculiar to Northern Australia.
It is nearly one-third larger in size than the common black cockatoo,
from which it is mainly distinguished by the color of the bill, which
is black. (Camp LIX. Bloodwood.)
'January' 4.--A heavy storm of rain and thunder having been
experienced last night, the party made a short day's stage, and
camped early to enable them to dry their meat, saddlery, bags, etc.,
which had been thoroughly soaked. The horses backs too, were getting
sore from the use of wet saddles, and themselves tired. The course
was north, over stringy-bark and bloodwood ridges for 5 miles, to a
large running creek named Micketeeboomulgeiai,* from the north-east,
on which a crossing had to be cut; a mile-and-a-half further on, an
ana-branch was crossed, and the party camped. (Camp LX. Bloodwood.)
[footnote]*In the Wellington Dialect "place where the lightning struck."
'January' 5.--Still raining and wet to-day. A table-land of open
sandy ridges was traversed to a high point, the edge of which was
reached in five miles on a course N. by E. On reaching this point a
range was seen in front, extending east and west about 10 miles off,
between which and the party, a fine valley extended, traversed by a
large sandy river, which was named the Archer, in honor of Messrs.
Archer, of Gracemere. The river Archer flows from the north-east,
through a valley of great richness and beauty, and considered by the
explorers to be the best country for cattle seen north of Broadsound.
The banks of the river are fringed by a thick belt of vine-scrub,
containing very many Leichhardt and other handsome trees and shrubs
of great luxuriance and growth. The valley is also described as
being the first locality where any varities of flowers were seen,
some were of great beauty, particularly a bulb which bears a large
flower, shaped like a larkspur, of every tinge of red, from a
delicate pink to a rich purple. After crossing the Archer two
ana-branches were passed, the route laying over loamy black and
chocolate flats, and fine long sloping ridges, very thickly grassed,
quite free from stones, well-watered, and despite the heavy rains
that had fallen, perfectly sound. The range seen from the table-land
was low, and of much the same description. Distance travelled 15
miles N. by E. (Camp LXI. Applegum.)
'January' 6.--The march to-day was very trying to the poor horses,
being chiefly over rotten melon-hole country, of a yellow clayey
soil, timbered with stunted bloodwood and pandanus, the rain pouring
down all day. At two miles from camp a large creek was crossed
containing a little rain water, and subsequently nine or ten small
deep waterless creeks, their beds too sandy to be retentive. On one
of these the wearied party camped at the end of 16 or 17 miles. A
range 8 or 9 miles to the East, was sighted during the day.
Notwithstanding the rain, barely sufficient water was found at the
camp. Distance 17 miles. Course North. (Camp LXII. Poplar gum.)
'January' 7.--At rather more than a mile from camp, two branches of
a large deep creek, were crossed just above its junction. It runs
from W. by N., had a little water in it, and the usual fringe of dark
green vine scrub, interspersed with Leichhardt trees. A hill on the
north bank covered with large sandstone boulders, marks the
crossing-place of the party. Numerous small water-courses similar to
those of yesterday, were crossed to-day. The country slightly
improved but was of the same character, waterless but for the showers
of rain. I was strange to see the horses bogging leg deep during a
thunder-storm, and in five minutes after unable to get a drink of
water. Large red funnel-shaped ant-hills were seen, in some
instances as high as 18 to 20 feet. The timber in addition to the
usual varities comprised zamias, iron bark, acacia, pandanus, mimosa,
sterculia [(Currijong'), grevillia, coral, ('Erythrina'), and Nonda
('Walrothia') trees. Scrub turkeys ('Talegalla Lathami'), wonga
wongas, and Torres Straits pigeon were seen. The party camped at the
end of 15 miles in a shallow tea-tree gulley, with a little water
from last night's rain in its sandy bed, supplying themselves with
drinking water from the rain, caught by the tents. Course North.
(Camp LXIII. Acacia.)
'January' 8.--The first 15 miles travelled over to-day were good
undulating forest country, timbered chiefly with box and applegum,
and a few iron-barks, and intersected with numerous canal-like
creeks, running north-west, but without water; the last three miles
was wretchedly bad, being similar to the tea-tree country of the
Staaten. The whole country between the Archer and Staaten is without
water, save immediately after rain, sufficiently heavy to set the
creeks running. The party camped on a small tea-tree "Gilgai," or
shallow water pan, and experienced another night of heavy rain with
high wind. Two more horses, Rasper and N'gress were found knocked
up. Distance 18 miles. Course N. The latitude of the camp was
ascertained to be 12 degrees 38 minutes 2 seconds. (Camp LXIV.
Bloodwood.)
'January' 9.--The fact of high land being observed to the west of
the course, and that the creeks all flowed eastward, induced the
party to think that they were near on the eastern slope of the
peninsula. This idea, however, was dispelled on their reaching at
the end of ten miles, a large river which was supposed to be the
Coen. It was running strongly W.N.W., and seemed distinctly to
divide the good and bad country, that on the south side being richly
grassed, open and lightly timbered, lucerne and other fine herbs
occurring frequently, whilst on the north side it relapsed into the
old barren tea-tree country of which so much had been traversed.
Considerable time was lost by the party in cutting a road for the
cattle through the thick scrub that fringes its banks, a kind of work
which was now becoming familiar. The Coen is about sixty yards wide,
sandy, and contains crocodiles. The country on it is described as
being of excellent quality for a cattle run. The party camped on a
tea-tree swamp with a few inches of water in it, 6 miles beyond the
crossing place. During the day wongas and Torres Strait pigeons were
observed, and scrub turkeys frequented the river scrubs. Distance 16
miles. Course North. (Camp LXV. Bloodwood.)
'January' 10.--The journey to-day was one of unusual fatigue and
hardship. The country for the first two miles was comparatively
sound, but at this point the course was intercepted by a narrow boggy
creek, running strongly through a tea-tree flat. Although care and
time were taken in the selection of a proper spot, when the herd
began to cross, the leading cattle, breaking through the crust, sank
to their hips in the boggy spew below, and in a short time between 30
and 40 were stuck fast, the remainder ploughing through with great
difficulty. Four beasts refused to face it altogether, and it was
found necessary, after wasting considerable time and a deal of
horse-flesh, to let them go. The greater part of the day was
consumed in dragging out the bogged cattle with ropes. Even with
this method and with all the exertions that could be used by the
party, five had to be abandoned, nothing appearing above the ground
but their backs and heads. The horses were more easily crossed, but
their saddles, packs, and loads had to be carried over by the party.
They then camped on the creek, and spent the remainder of the day in
drying their arms, saddles, etc., and in jerking the beef of one of
the beasts which they had been unable to pull out of the slough.
Heavy rain again fell at night, which caused an apprehension that
their progress would be altogether stopped if it continued. Distance
2 1/2 miles. Course North. (Camp LXVI. Pomegranite.)
'January' 11.--It is at this point that the heaviest troubles and
hardships of the party appear to have commenced, ,troubles that might
well appal hearts less stout than those of the Leader and his
brother, and hardships bearing heavily on each member of the party,
but doubly so on them who had to explore, mark, and clear the way for
the cattle, in addition to the ordinary labor of the journey. After
having travelled with the greatest difficulty for two miles over
execrable country, so boggy as to be barely possible to traverse,
their progress was stopped by a creek 25 yards wide, flooded "bank
and bank," and running like a mill sluice. This was the river
Batavia. The usual formidable fringe of vine scrub covered the
margin and approaches and had to be cut through before the cattle
could cross. This was done by the Brothers by the time they came up,
and in addition a large melaleuca which leant over the stream, was
felled across it, by means of which (by tying a rope above it, as a
leading line), they were enabled to carry over the packs, saddles,
stores, etc., on their heads. The cattle accustomed to swimming,
took the water in splendid style, one however getting entangled and
drowned. With the horses they were not so fortunate, for though a
head stall was put on each with a rope attached to the bit, to haul
them across, the rapidity of the current swept away two of them into
a tangle of vines in the middle of the stream, under which they were
carried and drowned, despite the exertions of four or five of the
party to pull them across by the rope. Their efforts to save them
nearly cost their own lives, and A. Jardine chronicles receiving a
"nasty crack" in the head from a log in attempting to disentangle his
own horse "Jack" from the vines, one which might have closed his
career, had it been a degree harder, the other, "Blokus," was a
Government horse, belonging to Mr Richardson; both were useful
horses, and a great loss to the party, but only the forerunner of
much greater ones. The creek at last crossed, the party attempted to
push forward on the other side, but after travelling a mile leading
the horses, slushing through bog and swamp under a heavy rain, they
were obliged to turn back and encamp on some high ground on the banks
of the creek, about half-a-mile above the crossing, where there was a
little good grass. Several of their horses were left behind bogged,
one mare in particular, "Nell Gwynne," being too weak to travel.
Distance 3 miles. Course N. (Camp LXVII.)
'January' 12.--It was determined to camp here to-day, both to spell
the weak horses and dry many things that had got wet. The horses
left bogged the previous night were got out, when on returning to the
camp, it was found that a number of the others were poisoned, and one
missing. The black-boys were immediately sent out in search of him,
but were unsuccessful. Meanwhile the party being unable to shift
camp that day, a yard was immediately formed, all herbs carefully
pulled up in and about it, and the horses penned there. The
precaution came too late, for before evening five of them besides the
missing one ("Rasper") were dead. It was supposed that "Rasper" must
have got into the river and been drowned, as one of the effects of
the poison is complete blindness. The symptoms are thus described.
Profuse sweating, with a heaving of the flanks, the ears droop, the
eyes glaze, set, and the animal finally turns stone blind. He then
lies down, struggles fitfully for several hours, and never rises
again. This was a heavy blow. Ten of their horses were now gone,
eight of which were picked, and the best of the whole number, besides
being the best conditioned, one peculiarity of the poison being that
it appears to attack the fattest animals. A careful search was made
to detect the plant that caused this fearful loss, but
unsuccessfully. The number of horses being now reduced to
twenty-one, and those the poorest and worst, it became necessary to
take only what was actually wanted of their baggage, and to abandon
the remainder. A cache was accordingly dug, and 25 sets of
horse-shoes, a lot of nails and other miscellaneous articles were
buried at the foot of an iron acacia on the top of the ridge and
facing the creek, on which was marked in a sheild F J over LXVII.
over DIG in heart. The horses were kept in the yard all night, and
the rest of the day and evening spent in disposing of the reduced
loading, and making preparations for leaving this fatal camp. The
rain continued to fall heavily throughout the day, which could not
under the circumstances, have increased the cheerfulness of the
party. The Leader, however, closes the entry in his Diary with "Nil
Desperandum" merely marking the day of the week in parenthesis as
("Black Thursday.")
'January' 13.--The poor condition of the horses, and the wretchedly
soft nature of the ground, making it impossible for them to be
ridden, or do more than carry the diminished loads of baggage and
stores, the party had no choice but to walk and in some cases even to
carry the packs of the horses. Mr. A. Jardine describes their
appearance this morning as "rather neat" at the starting from the
camp, the two Brothers, Mr. Binney, Scrutton, and the four black-boys
having doffed everything but their shirts and belts. It was well for
the whites that their previous habits on the journey had hardened
their feet and enabled them to travel without shoes, with but little
less hardship than their black companions. This they had acquired by
the custom on coming into camp, of going out with the boys opossum
and "sugar bag" hunting. With stout hearts and naked legs, therefore
they faced forward driving the horses and cattle before them, and by
the end of the day placed ten miles between them and "Poison Creek,"
as it was then named. This however was not accomplished without
great toil, the country traversed being red soil ridges, with black
soil tea-tree flats between them, which were so many bogs. In these
the cattle floundered and bogged at every hundred yards, and even the
spare unladen horses had to be pulled out. The latter were at length
so completely knocked up that it was necessary to leave some of them
at one side of a swamp, the party carrying their packs and loads
about a quarter-of-a-mile on to a dry ridge on the other. Here they
camped and tired as they were, were obliged to keep a vigilant watch,
as, to add to their many annoyances the natives had been following
them all day. Distance 10 miles N.E. by N. Box marked F.J. 68 cross.
'January' 14.--At daylight this morning the horses were got over
the swamp, with less difficulty than was expected, being recruited by
their night's rest. The journey was resumed at 6.30. There had been
no rain on the previous day and night, and the ground with only this
twenty-four hours of dry weather had hardened sufficiently on the
crust to allow the horses to walk without bogging. This crust,
however, once broken through, they bogged hopelessly, until dragged
out with ropes. In this the water and sludge oozing out from the
tracks were great auxiliaries, as they formed a kind of batter, in
which, by pulling the horses on their sides, they slid along like
sledges. This process had continually to be repeated throughout the
day, causing so much delay, that seven or eight miles were with
difficulty accomplished. At each running stream the packs had to be
taken off and carried over. The country traversed was similar to
that of yesterday, undulating blood-wood red soil ridges,
sufficiently well-grassed, with the everlasting black soil, tea-tree
flats, and gullies running between them, some being very wide. Two
more horses died during the day from the effects of the poison, and
the Leader owns that he was beginning to be at his wits end as to how
they were to get along. Every superfluity and been abandoned, and,
with the exception of a few light things, such as clothes and
blankets, of too trifling weight to make it worth while to leave, and
only what was absolutely necessary, retained; yet there were barely
sufficient horses left to carry that. He had therefore good cause
for anxiety. The day kept tolerably fair until the party came into
camp, when the rain came down in torrents. Whilst in the hurry and
confusion of putting up the tents to protect the stores from the
deluge that was pouring, the alarm of "blacks" was again given. They
were fortunately unarmed, and the party easily chased them away.
This was fortunate, and was caused by the native custom of making the
gins carry their spears and shields on the march, themselves only
carrying a nulla or two. They were soon back again however, with
large bundles of spears, but not before the party had had time to
prepare for them. The rifles were dry and loaded. Frank Jardine
here owns to a feeling of savage delight at the prospect of having a
"shine" with these wretched savages, who, without provocation, hung
on their footsteps dogging them like hawks all through the thickest
of their troubles, watching with cowardly patience, for a favourable
moment to attack them at a disadvantage. Even then, however, he
would not be the agressor, but allowed them to come within sixty
yards, and ship their spears in the woomerahs, before they were fired
upon. The two foremost men fell to the only two shots that were
discharged, and their companions at once broke and fled; nor was the
advantage followed up, as the travellers were careful to husband
their ammunition, and their caps were running short. This, however,
was the last occasion on which the party was molested, their sable
adversaries having, probably, at length learned that "they were worth
letting alone," and never again shewing themselves. The distance
travelled was 8 miles. N.E. by N.
'January' 15.--This being Sunday and horses, cattle, and men, being
in want of rest after the work of the last two days, it was
determined to make a rest day. The party employed part of the time
in spreading out the contents of the pack bags to dry, everything
having become mouldy with the constant wetting. The day was marked
too, by a grant feast of "stodge," doughboys, and jam, stodge being a
delicacy extemporised for the occasion, consisting of "flour boiled
with water to the consistency of paste, with some small pieces of raw
meat thrown into it"!! The Brothers spent part of the afternoon in
the mutual good offices of picking the pandanus thorns out of each
others feet and legs, the blackboys following their example. These
thorns were a constant source of small torture to the party. The
necessity of trying the ground in advance of the cattle prevented
them wearing boots, and thus feet and legs were left without any
protection, and exposed them day after day to the same annoyance.
Another horse, "Creamy," sickened from the effects of the poison. It
was thought that he had not taken enough to kill him, and that the
day's rest would set him to rights. A cow was also left bogged in
the swamp. The ground on which the party encamped was supposed at
first to be dry, being on a bloodwood ridge, with six or eight inches
of gravel on the surface, but the heavy rain of the previous night
caused the water to run through the tents to a depth of three inches.
It was only necessary to scratch a handful of gravel off the crust to
get clear running water for drinking. A heavy rain again fell during
the night, dispelling all hopes of sound travelling for the morrow.
(Camp LXIX. Bloodwood.)
'January' 16.--The absolute necessity of getting at or near their
destination before the setting in of the periodical rains, stimulated
the Leader to urge the party to long stages, which was not at all
relished by some of the number, two of whom at starting made repeated
requests to camp for another day, alleging that they could not walk
any further. To this Mr. Jardine could not listen, and being further
importuned, disposed of the request summarily by packing their rifles
on the horses, and telling them that they might remain or come on as
they might elect. He heard no more grumbling, and a good stage was
accomplished. The country for the first two miles was similar to
that of the last two stages. It then suddenly changed into red sandy
stringy-bark ridges, with a dense under-growth of vines, zamias, and
pandanus, which made the walking difficult and painful. Several
creeks were crossed, the largest of which was at ten miles from the
camp, and running W. by N., and the party halted at another six miles
further on, which received the name of Dalhunty Creek. Its course
was west, and it was remarkable for the palms ('Seaforthia Elegans')
growing in its bed. All these creeks were supposed to be tributaries
of the Batavia River. The party had only to unpack the horses twice
during the day, and made a capital stage, but not without paying for
it, for even the Black-boys shewed signs of fatigue. Their legs and
feet, as well as those of most of the party were in a frightful
state, cut in peices by the thorny vines which covered the line of
march. They were now completely out of meat, but it would have been
unwise to halt to kill a beast for three reasons: first, the
weather; next, the fact that they could not pack the meat without
leaving behind something to make place for it, another of their
horses, Combo, having died to-day from the effects of the poison; and
lastly, the urgency of getting forward whilst the weather would admit
of it. The morning had been rainy, but in the afternoon it cleared
up and gave promised of a few fair days, of which it was expedient to
take advantage. In addition to the horse that died (Combo), two more
of their best horses (Rocket and Creamy) were fast sinking. It was a
fearful thing to see them dwindling away day by day, without power to
help or time to halt for them; but to press forward was a paramount
necessity. Distance 16 miles North. (Camp LXX. Applegum.)
'January' 17.--The country traversed to-day was similar to that of
yesterday, save that the ridges were higher and more stony. Creeks
were crossed at two and ten miles, running strongly westward, which
appeared to be permanent. Five miles further on, the party camped on
a smaller one of the same character, having vine scrub and seaforthia
palms on its banks, which was named Skardon's Creek. The horse
Creamy died during the day, and Rocket through the night. These
losses reduced their horses from forty-two, with which they started,
to fifteen of the culls. They were in latitude 11 degrees 51 minutes
50 seconds, and by their dead reckoning, just about the track of
Kennedy, supposing it to have been correctly charted, and therefore
on the western slope of the dividing range. The Torres Strait pigeon
('Carpophaga Luctuosa') was again seen, and the bitcher
plant('Nepenthes Kennedya') first noticed. Two of the police saddles
had to be left at this camp in consequence of the loss of the horses.
Distance 15 1/2 miles. North. (Camp LXXI.)
'January' 18.--The march to-day is described as being through the
most abominable country that can well be imagined, being a
continuation of loose white sandy ranges, thickly covered with low
bush from three to eight feet in height, broom, fern, grass-tree
('Xanthoraea'), pandanus, and "five-corner" bushes, being thickly
matted together with prickly vine. Not a tree relieved the monotony
of this waste, and what was worse, not a blade of grass was seen for
miles. Several deep creeks were crossed, all running strongly with
clear pelluced water to W. and N.W. The timber when it occured was
bloodwood, stringy and iron-bark on the ridges, banksia, grevillia,
and several kinds of tea-trees in the gullies, which were
honey-combed and boggy. Two new kinds of palm were seen. The bush
which seems to be what Kennedy alluded to as "heath," could only be
got through by leading a horse ahead, the others following slowly
behind him, the cattle then following in their track. A straight
course was impossible, as all the boggy creeks and gullies had to be
run up to their heads before they could be crossed. A general
course, however, was kept of N. by E. The packs were continually
being knocked off the horses, occasioning great delay, so that only
12 miles were accomplished. Some black perch were caught in one of
the creeks, and scrub turkeys were seen. Poor "Nell Gwynne's" foal
knocked up to-day, after having kept up bravely since the mare's
death. Nothing remained therefore but to kill him. The party being
without meat, and it being impossible to stop in such a country to
kill a beast, part of his flesh was dressed and carried on, which was
a grateful addition to the food, and although two or three at first
refused to eat of it, the craving of hunger soon made them forget
their repugnance to horse-flesh. At night the horses had to be short
hobbled and a watch kept over them. The weather kept fine, raising
the hopes of the Leader of getting in before the rains.
'January' 19.--Despite the watch kept over the horses, they got
away during the night, and a late start was the consequence. Several
hours were also lost at the first mile on the journey, in consequence
of some of the horses getting "upside down" in one of the deep narrow
creeks, which were constantly recurring, and having to be extricated.
These creeks run N.W., and take their rise from springs. They are so
boggy that in some cases, though perhaps only eighteen inches wide,
they had to be headed before the cattle could pass. The summit of
the range was reached in seven miles of similar country to that of
yesterday, resembling (identical in fact) in appearance and botanical
character, to the worst country of Botany Bay, the Surry Hills, and
coast about Sydney. A thick vine scrub was then passed, when the
party emerged on to some open ridges of red sandy soil, timbered with
bloodwood, stringy-bark, and nonda. They were now satisfied that
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