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channels sandy and dry. It now runs generally west and very winding.
The country and timber were much as before described, with the
exception that a mile back from the river, (a chain of lagoons)
generally occurs, some of them being large and deep and covered with
lilies. Beyond, a waste of sandy tea-tree levels, thickly covered
with triodia or spinifex, and other desert grasses. The green tree
ant was very numerous, particularly in the nonda trees, where they
form their nests. The birds were also very numerous, large flocks of
black cockatoos, cockatoo parrots, galaas, budgerygars or grass
parrots ('Melopsittacus Undulatus, Gould'), and some grey quail were
frequently seen, and on one of the lagoons a solitary snipe was
found. Another cow was abandoned to-day. The total day's stage was
8 miles. The party camped in the sandy bed of the river. A little
rain was experienced at night. (Camp XXV.) Latitude 16 degrees 32
minutes 14 seconds.
'November' 19.--The party followed down parallel with the Staaten,
so as to avoid the scrub and broken sandstone gullies on the banks.
They travelled for 11 miles, and camped on one of the lagoons above
mentioned. Their course was somewhat to the south of west, so that
they were no nearer to their destination--an annoying reflection.
In the afternoon some of the party went over to the river to fish.
At this spot it had narrowed to a width of 100 yards, was clear of
fallen trees and snags, the water occupying the whole width, but only
5 feet deep. Up to this time, Frank Jardine had supposed the stream
they were on to be the Mitchell, but finding its course so little
agreeing with Leichhardt's description of it, below the junction of
the Lynd, which is there said to run N.W., he was inclined to the
conclusion that they had not yet reached that river. Mr. Richardson,
on the contrary, remained firm in his opinion that Byerley Creek was
the river Lynd, and consequently, that this stream was the Mitchell,
nor was it till they reached the head of the tide that he was fully
convinced of his error. (See his journal November 18, and December
2.)
'November' 20.--To-day the Leader went forward and chose a good
camp, 12 miles on, at some fine lagoons. The cattle followed,
keeping, as usual, back from the river, the interval to which was all
scrubby flooded ground, thickly covered with brush and underwood.
They were however unable to reach the camp that night, for when
within three miles of it a heavy deluge of rain compelled them to
halt, and pitch the tents to protect the rations, all the oilskin
coverings that had been provided for the packs having been destroyed
in the bonfire, on Guy-Faux Day, at camp No. 16. They could hardly
have been caught in a worse place, being on the side of a scrubby
ridge, close to one of the ana-branches of the river. It would seem
that the natives calculated on taking them at a disadvantage, for
they chose this spot for an attack, being the first instance in which
they attempted open hostility. Whilst the Brothers were busily
engaged in cutting out a "sugar bag," a little before sundown, they
heard an alarm in the camp, and a cry of "here come the niggers."
Leaving their 'sweet' occupation, they re-joined the party, in front
of which about 20 blacks were corroboreeing, probably to screw up
their courage. They had craft enough to keep the sun, which was now
low, at their backs, and taking advantage of this position sent in a
shower of spears, without any of the party--not even the black-boys
--being aware of it, until they saw them sticking in the ground
about them. No one was hit, but several had very narrow shaves. The
compliment was returned, and as Alexander Jardine describes "'exeunt'
warriors," who did not again molest them, although they were heard
all around the camp throughout the night. (Camp XXVII.) Course W.
Distance 9 miles. A heavy thunderstorm in the evening.
'November' 21.--The cattle were started as usual, but as ill-luck
would have it, 13 of the horses were not to be found. After waiting
for them till four o'clock, all the packs and riding-saddles were
packed on the remaining horses, and the party drove them on foot
before them to the camp, at the lagoons, three miles on. It was dark
before they got there, and well into the second watch before the
tents were pitched, and everything put straight. The country
continued the same as before described, a barren waste of tea-tree
levels to the north, obliging them to keep along the river, although
at right angles to their proper course. (Camp XXVIII.) Distance 3
miles W.
'November 22.--The troubles and adventures of the party seemed to
thicken at this point, where the cattle were detained, whilst the
missing horses were being sought for. Old Eulah had come in late the
preceding night empty-handed, he had seen their tracks, but night
coming on he was unable to follow them. He was started away this
morning in company with Peter to pick up and run the trail. At two
o'clock he returned with two, and reported that Peter was on the
trail of the others. They had evidently been disturbed by their
friends the natives, for their tracks were split up, and those
brought on had their hobbles broken. At dusk Peter brought home
three more, without being able to say where the others had got to.
During this time, Frank Jardine had a little adventure to himself;
wishing to find a better run for the cattle, he started about noon,
and rode down the river for about six miles. There was no choice,
the country was all of the same description, so he turned back in
disgust, when, in crossing the head of a sandstone gully, he heard a
yell, and looked round just in time to see a half a dozen spears come
at him, and about a dozen natives around and painted, jumping about
in great excitement. Going forward a little, he got time to clear
the lock of his rifle, from the oil rag which usually protected it.
He turned on his assailants, and sent a bullet amongst them; it hit a
tree instead of a blackfellow, but as they still menaced him, his
next shot was more successful, when seeing one of their number fall,
the rest decamped. It was now their turn to run, but before they
could cross the bed of the river, which was dry, clear, and about 300
yards wide, he was able to get two good shots at short range. They
did not trouble him again that afternoon. They dropped all their
spears in the "stampede," some of which, reed and jagged, were taken
home as trophies. They used no "wommerahs." Peter came in to camp
at dark, with 3 horses, having no idea where the others had got to;
there were 8 still away.
'November' 23.--Sambo, the best tracker among the black-boys, was
despatched at sunrise, with Peter, to look for the missing horses.
He returned at sundown with the mule, which he had found on the
opposite side of the river, but he had seen no traces of the rest.
Peter came in after dark, without any, he had seen the tracks of the
natives on the horse tracks, and related in his own jargon, that
"blackfella bin run'em horses all about" and "that bin brok'em
hobble." He had also seen two or three of the blacks themselves, at
the lagoon where the brothers met them on the 14th, and had some
parley with them--he described them a "cawbawn saucy" "that tell'im
come on, me trong fella, you little fella," and after chaffing him in
their own way, sent as many spears at him as he would stand for. The
detention caused by the loss of the horses, was a serious matter,
whilst the hostility of the natives was very annoying, keeping the
party constantly on the alert. The interval was occupied in patching
up the ration tent, with portions of the other two, so that they had
now one water-proof to protect their stores. Some good snipe and
duck shooting might have been got round these lagoons, but as nearly
all their caps had been destroyed by the fire, it was not to be
thought of. The scarcity of these and of horse-flesh alone prevented
the Brothers from turning out and giving their troublesome enemies a
good drilling, which, indeed, they richly deserved, for they had in
every case been the agressors, and hung about the party,
treacherously waiting for an opportunity to take them by surprise.
The detention also was due to them, which was a matter of some
anxiety to the Leader, when it is considered that the party was in a
level flooded country, without a rise that they knew of within fifty
miles, and that the rains of the last ten days portended the breaking
up the dry season.
'November' 24.--This morning Frank Jardine went out with Eulah, and
succeded in finding 5 more of the horses, scattered all over the
country, their hobbles broken, and as wild as hawks. He sent Eulah
along the tracks of the last two, who were evidently not far ahead,
and brought the others in himself. These two "Cerebus" and "Creamy,"
were the best and fattest of the pack-horses. Their loss would have
made a serious addition to the loads of the remainder, who had
already to share 400lbs. Extra in consequence of the poisoning of the
three already lost. Whilst waiting for and expecting their arrival
every hour, the different members of the party amused themselves as
best they might by fishing, opossum, sugar-bag hunting, and nonda
gathering. The monotony of the camp was also broken by a little
grumbling, consequent on an order from the Leader against the opening
of the next week's ration bag. The party had, during the halt
consumed a week's rations a day and a-half too soon, hence the order,
which was a wise precaution. The rations were calculated with care
to last through the journey, but, unless a restriction had been
placed on the consumption, this could not be hoped for. But it is
difficult to reason with hungry men.
'November' 25.--Another day passed without finding the two missing
horses. Sambo and Eulah were sent out in quest of them, but returned
unsuccessful, giving it, as their opinion that "blackfella bin 'perim
'longa 'crub." Peter and Barney were then despatched with orders to
camp out that night and look for them all next day. A steer having
been killed last night, the day was passed in jerking him. The day
was very unpropitious as there had been a shower of rain in the
morning, and there was no sun, so it had to be smoked with manure in
one of the tents. What with the mosquitoes and sand-flies, men,
horses, and cattle were kept in a continual fever. The horses would
not leave the smoke of the fires, the cattle would not remain on the
camp, and the men could get no rest at night for the mosquitoes,
whilst during the day the flies were in myriads, and a small species
of gad-fly, particularly savage and troublesome. Another source of
annoyance was from the flocks of crows and kites, the latter ('Milvus
Affinis') are described by Leichhardt as being extraordinarily
audacious, during his journey through this part of the country, and
they certainly manifested their reputation now. Not content with the
offal about the camp, they would actually, unless sharply watched,
take the meat that was cooking on the fire. The black-boys killed a
great many with "paddimelon" sticks, and reed spears, (the spoils of
war) but with little effect. "When one was killed, twenty came to
the funeral." Old Eulah was a great proficient in this exercise, and
when in action with his countrymen, was always anxious to throw their
own spears back at them.
'November' 26.--One of the party went to sleep during his watch last
night, by which fifteen head of cattle were allowed to stray away
from the camp. It was not the first time that this very grave fault
had occurred, the mischief caused by which, can sometimes, hardly be
estimated. In this case, however, it verified the proverb, it is an
ill wind, etc., for whilst looking for the stragglers Frank Jardine
luckily "happened" on the missing horses "Cerebus" and "Creamy" about
7 miles down the river. They had evidently been frightened by the
blacks. Seven of the cattle only were found, leaving eight missing
which was very provoking as it was necessary to shift the camp (on
which they had now been detained six days) for all the stock where
looking miserable. Neither horses nor cattle would eat the grass,
which had ceased to have a trace of green in it, but rambled about
looking for burnt stubble. The day was close and sultry with loud
thunder and bright lightning, which very much frighened the horses.
The natives were heard cooeying all round the camp during the night,
but made no attack, remembering probably the result of the Sunday and
Tuesday previous.
'November' 27--Everything was ready to pack on the horses before
daylight this morning, but most provokingly "Cerebus" was again
missing. Leaving orders for the partyto start if he was not
recovered before noon, the Leader pushed on to mark a camp for them.
At about three miles he came on to a chain of fine lagoons, running
parallel to and about four miles from the river. The intervening
country was one tea-tree level all flooded, but a narrow strip of
soft sandy flat occurred on the banks of each, timbered with
blood-wood, stringy-bark, and box. Following these down he marked a
camp at about nine miles, then crossed over to the river to look for
the cattle. He had not followed it far when he saw a mob of blacks.
They did not molest him, so he passed them quietly, as he thought,
but about two miles further on, in some scrubby sandstone gullies, as
he was riding along looking for tracks, a spear whistled past, within
six inches of his face. Pulling up, he saw seven natives, all
standing quietly looking on at the effect of the missile: the fellow
who threw it never threw another. Pursuing his way, pondering on the
fatality that had brought about collisions on two Sundays running, he
met the cattle, and found the party in some excitement; they too had
had a shindy. The natives had attacked them in force, but no one was
hurt, whilst some of their assailants were left on the ground, and
others carried away wounded. It was found that they would not stand
after the first charge--and a few were hit. (Camp XXIX.) Distance
9 miles. Course W. by N.
'November' 28.--All hopes of finding the eight missing head of
cattle, lost from camp 28, had to be abandoned, for the reason that
the horse-flesh could not hold out in looking for them. The cattle
were moved down along the lagoons, which in about two miles narrowed
into a defined creek, sandy, with occasional lagoons. This was
explored ten miles by the Leader, and the question as to whether he
should choose that route, or follow the river was decided for him.
The banks were either utterly barren or clothed with spinifex, and
the country on either side the same worthless tea-tree levels. He
was therefore determined to take the cattle back on to the river,
which was not much better, and led them away from their course. The
prospects of the Brothers were rather dispiriting. To attempt
striking north was out of the question, whilst every mile down the
river took them further away from their destination, and their horses
were falling away daily, so much so, that if the feed did not soon
improve, there would not be one capable of carrying an empty saddle.
The rainy season too was at hand, and the level and flooded nature of
the country they were in, would, were they caught there by the
floods, endanger the safety of the party. It was therefore with no
little anxiety that they watched the weather, and searched for a
practicable line which would allow of their steering north. (Camp
XXX.) Latitude 16 degrees 26 minutes 53 seconds. Distance 10 miles,
W. by N.
'November' 29.--Keeping a south-west course, so as to strike it
lower down, the cattle were again taken on to the river, which they
reached in about nine miles; then travelling about another mile down
its banks, encamped. These were now decidedly more open, and the
country generally improved. The same strip of soft sandy flat about
half-a-mile wide continued, but better grassed, although the spear
grass was far too common. Bloodwood, stringy-bark, applegum and
acacia timbered the north bank; whilst on the south, tea-tree flats,
covered with spinifex, ran close down to the bed, the bank itself
being of red clay. Two channels, together making a width of about
300 yards, formed the bed, which was sandy, and held very little
water on the surface. No large trees occurred, save now and then a
vagrant nonda. Another cow was lost to-day, and "Lottie," a favorite
terrier, was missing. The latitude of Camp 31 was supposed to be 16
degrees 31 minutes 53 seconds, but doubtful.
'November' 30.--The river was followed down to-day for 11 miles. It
was very winding and irregular in its width. At the camp it was only
60 yards wide and running in one channel, whilst a mile above, it
measured nearly 400. Its general course was nearly west. The creek
which is formed by the lagoons, on which the party were so long
detained was crossed at about nine-and-a-half miles. The country at
its junction is flooded for a long distance back, and the river bed
sandy and thickly timbered. Although the country generally had
decidedly improved, inasmuch as that it was more open, devoid of
scrub, and the box flats on the river extending further back on each
side, it was by no means good. The flats were very scantily grassed,
chiefly with sour water grasses and spinifex, and shewed by the flood
marks that they must be quite impassable during floods or wet
weather. The dreary tea-tree levels might be seen in glimpses
through the white box of the flats extending far beyond. Several
small swamps were passed during the day, on which ducks and other
water-fowl were very numerous, the stately native companion stalking
near the margins. The large funnel ant-hills occurred from 2 to 15
feet high. The Fitzroy wallaby was plentiful, and the Leader shot an
emeu. Some large flights of white ibis, and slate-colored pigeons
passed high overhead, flying north, which might be a good indication.
Peter was sent back to seek for Lottie, but returned in the evening
unsuccessful.
'December' 1.--Maramie Creek was crossed this morning at its
junction with the river, into which it flows in two channels, about
60 or 70 miles from the point where the brothers first struck it on
the 12th of November, while searching for a road to the northward.
Its total width is about 120 yards. The general course of the river
was slightly to the north of west, but very winding, some of its
reaches extended for nearly four miles. Numerous ana-branches
occurred, the flats separating them, being three miles in breadth,
timbered with flooded box and tea-tree, their banks well grassed. It
would be a dangerous country to be caught in by the floods. Two
parties of blacks were passed fishing on the river, but they took no
notice of the party, and were of course not interfered with. They
used reed spears pointed with four jagged prongs, and also hooks and
lines. Their hooks are made with wood barbed with bone, and the
lines of twisted currejong bark. Distance travelled to-day 10 miles.
The Camp XXXIII. in latitude 16 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds.
'December' 2.--The river was travelled down through similar country
for eleven miles, when the party reached the head of the tide, and
camped on a rocky water hole in an ana-branch, the river water not
being drinkable. The course was to the southward of west. It was
now beyond a doubt, even to Mr. Richardson, that this river was not
the Mitchell, for neither its latitude, direction, or description
corresponded with Leichhardt's account. It was also perceived that
the longitude of the starting point must have been incorrect, and
very considerably to the westward, as their reckoning, carefully
checked, brought them much too near the coast. The Brothers
therefore became satisfied of what they had long believed, that they
had never been on the Lynd at all, or even on its watershed, and that
what they were on was an independent stream. They therefore named it
the "Ferguson,' in honor of Sir George Ferguson Bowen, Governor of
Queensland, but there is little doubt that it is the Staaten of the
Dutch navigators, or at least its southern branch. Should a northern
branch eventually be discovered, which the delta and numerous
ana-branches make a probable hypothesis, the stream explored by the
brothers might with propriety retain the name they gave it. At eight
miles from the start the character of the country changed from the
prevailing flats, to a kind of barren sandstone and spenifex ridges.
On pitching the camp the fishing-lines were put into requisition, but
without success. It is remarkable, that on reaching the salt water,
not far from this spot, Leichhardt was similarly disappointed, after
having counted on catching and curing a good quantity of fish, the
whole day's work of Brown and Murphy being "a small siluus, one
mullet, and some guard-fish," 'qu.' gar-fish.
'December' 3.--To-day's stage was a short one, and was hoped to have
been the last on this miserable river, which was now looked upon as
undoubtedly the Staaten. It had in some measure improved. The
timber was much larger and finer, and the lagoons extensive and deep.
But a heavy storm which came down, and compelled them to camp early,
soon proved what the country would be in the wet season. With this
one heavy fall of rain it became so boggy that the horses sank in up
to their girths. Hitherto the grass had been so scanty that the
party could not halt for a day to kill. They had consequently been
four days without meat. It was determined, therefore, to stop and
kill a beast, preparatory to a start north, the feed having slightly
improved in common with the timber. In addition to the steer that
was slaughtered, a shovel-nosed shark was caught and jerked in like
manner with the beef. In the afternoon Alexander Jardine explored
down the river for seven miles, seeking for a good spot for turning
off. The country still improved: the river was completely salt, and
in one continuous sheet of running water, in two channels 300 or 400
yards in width, and together about half-a-mile at the spot where he
turned back. Here it was flat and shallow, and fordable at low
water. Mangroves and salt-water creeks commenced as described by
Leichhardt,* and alligator tracks were seen. (Camp XXXV.) Latitude
16 degrees 26 minutes 39 seconds.
[footnote] *See Journal, page 320. It was at this point that he
threw away his horse-shoes and other heavy articles.
'December' 4.--The beef, shark, and a few cat-fish were jerked, and
all the stores and loading spread out and re-distributed on the
packs, and as this put the camp into some confusion, the Leader
thought it well to shift it for a few miles, to let the packs shake
into place before the final start. They therefore moved down three
miles to the commencement of the mangroves, into a patch of the best
feed they had seen since they left the Einasleih. At this point the
banks were very soft and sandy, growing spinifex; the stream in
numerous channels, altogether half-a-mile across, and the tide rose
and fell about twenty-two inches. Here they camped, intending to
make an early start on the following morning. Time was now an object
of the utmost importance to the progress, if not to the safety of the
party: Frank Jardine was aware that the Mitchell, which he had hoped
long ere this to have left behind him, was still ahead, at least 40
miles away, without certainty of water until it was reached, whilst
if caught by the floods he would probably be stopped by this
important stream. It was with some anxiety therefore that he
hastened preparations for the start. How his hopes were deferred and
how fortune seemed to laugh at his endeavours to push forward on his
course will now be narrated, and it will be seen how good bushmen
with high hearts can overcome obstacles, and meet difficulties that
would appal and baffle ordinary travellers.
CHAPTER III.
Leave the Staaten--Half the horses away--Fresh troubles--Mule
Lost--Sambo knocked up--Search for mule--Perplexity--
"Lucifer" goes mad--Final attempt to recover him--Marine Plains
--Search for Deceiver--Found dead--Salt Lagoon--Arbor Creek--
Country improves--Good Camp--Eulah Creek--The Brothers attacked
--Reach the Mitchell--Cow poisoned--Battle of the Mitchell--An
ambush--Extent of flooded Country--Reach head of tide--Heavy
rain--A "Blank run"--Leave the Mitchell--Good Coast Country--
Balourgah Creek--Blue grass--Banksia--The Eugenia--Green Ant
--Hearsey Creek--Holroyd--Creek Dunsmuir Creek--Thalia Creek
--Black boy chased by natives--Another encounter--Cattle
scattered by thunder-storm--Rainy Season--Macleod Creek--
Kendall Creek.
'December' 5.--Turning their backs on the Ferguson or Staaten the
party steered north, and at starting crossed the head of the
sand-flats, described by Leichhardt. The rest of the day's stage was
over sandy ridges covered with tea-tree and pandanus, tolerably
grassed, no creek or water-course of any description occurred along
the line, and the party had to camp without water at about 13 miles:
but as the Leader had not expected to find any at all for at least
40, this was not thought much of. The camp though waterless was well
grassed, and by dint of searching a small pool of slimy green water
was found before dark, about two-and-a-half miles to the N.N.W. in a
small watercourse, and by starting off the black boys, enough was
procured in the "billies" for the use of the party for supper. This
is marked a red day in Frank Jardine's diary, who closes his notes
with this entry. "Distance 13 miles. Course North at last." (Camp
XXXVII.)
'December' 6.--The satisfaction of the party in getting away from
the Staaten and travelling on the right course was destined to
receive a check, and the Brothers to find they had not yet quite done
with that river. This morning about half the horses were away, and a
worse place for finding them, saving scrub, could hardly be imagined.
It was fortunate that the pool of water mentioned yesterday had been
found, as the cattle would have had to turn back to the river, but
this they were saved from. They were started away for the water at
day-break, in charge of two of the black boys, with instructions to
stay and feed them there until the horses came up or they were
relieved by Binney. No horses coming in, Binney was sent after them.
The Brothers searching for the horses, followed an hour-and-a-half
after, but on arriving at the pool found the cattle and boys but no
Binney. Returning to the camp they instructed the party to shift the
packs to the pool on the twelve horses that had been found. Binney
here came into the camp along the yesterday's tracks. He had missed
the cattle and did not know where he had been to. He was started
again on the cattle track by the Brothers, who then went in search of
more water, sending two more black boys to look for the horses. At
about four miles away they themselves came on to their tracks, which
they ran for about eight miles towards the coast, when they found
six. Continuing to follow the trail they were led to their 35th camp
on the Staaten, when they found three more. Here, as the sun went
down they were obliged to camp, and after short hobbling the horses
laid down by their fire, supperless, and without blankets. They saw
no water through the whole of the day, which was the cause of the
restlessness of the horses the previous night, and of their straying,
in spite of short hobbles. The myriads of mosquitoes too, which now
annoyed them may possibly have contributed to that end.
'December' 7.--Leaving the nine horses hobbled to feed near the
water the Brothers separated, one taking up and the other down the
river to look for the others, in hopes that they might also have
turned back, but met again in the afternoon, each without success.
Starting back (with the nine recovered yesterday) at about two
o'clock, they returned to the camp, where fresh troubles awaited
them. Only two of the others had been found, and the party with the
pack-horses had succeeded in losing the mule, together with his pack.
Whilst preparing to start they had allowed him to poke away
unperceived in the scrubby timber, and did not miss him till ready to
start. Sambo had been at once despatched on his tracks but had not
yet returned. Binney had lost himself a second time and only
rejoined the camp at dark last night, after having ridden the whole
day, probably in a circle, without finding either horses or water.
The two black boys had been equally unsuccessful. Eulah and Barney
were now despatched with orders to camp out until they found the
missing horses, five of which, besides the mule, still were away. In
the evening Sambo returned quite exhausted for want of water, not
having seen or tasted any, or any food during the too days of his
absence. For an hour after coming into camp he was quite dilirious.
When sufficiently recovered and collected to speak he stated that he
had followed the tracks of the mule (who had evidently been
galloping) through the tea-tree levels, at the back of camp 35, when
he was obliged to turn back for want of water. This accident, the
result of gross carelessness, together with frequent cases of less
importance, induced in the Leader a want of confidence which caused
him great anxiety when away from the party, to which indeed he never
returned without a feeling of disquietude, which was not allayed
until he learned that all was well--a harassing feeling, which few
but those who have experienced the responsibility of the conduct and
success of a similar expedition can fully appreciate. The water at
this camp was very bad, but still under the circumstances, a great
God-send. There were two holes equi-distant half-a-mile from the one
they were on, up and down the creek. The upper one was the deepest,
having many ducks, terns, and cranes on it. All three were
surrounded with a fringe of green rushes. By digging wells and
allowing the water to drain in, it was drinkable, although very
brackish. (Camp XXXVIII.) Latitude 16 degrees 13 minutes 45
seconds.
'December' 8.--At 4 o'clock this morning Alexander Jardine started
with Sambo after the mule. The Leader remained with the party
employing the day in exploring ahead for about 18 miles, in the hope
of finding water for a stage. This was a paramount necessity, for
the weather was so hot and the country so dry that twenty-four hours
without drinking drove the cattle nearly mad, their drivers suffering
almost equally. Finding no water during this search Mr. Jardine was
again in perplexity. Supposing the Mitchell to be 40 or 45 miles
ahead, the cattle could not reach it without water. On the other
hand if the coast were followed, it was probable that on reaching the
Mitchell they would have to trace it up 40 or 50 miles before it
could be crossed. The latter however seemed to be the best course,
if not the only one. The intention of Alexander Jardine was to have
got on to the mule's tracks, and run them over again until he
"pulled" him, but the ground being baked hard, stony, and grassless
Sambo was unable again to pick them up. However, whilst looking for
the mule's tracks they found three more of the horses, on a small
creek, fourteen miles from the camp, which ran into the river below
the last camp on it. He now determined to look for the other two,
and abandon the search after the mule for the present. One of them
"Lucifer" was found at camp 35. He was out of hobbles, and
immediately on being seen, started off at a gallop up the river. His
tracks were followed up to the next camp, six miles, where night
closing in Mr. Jardine was constrained to halt. The wretched animal
had apparently gone mad, probably with drinking salt water.
'December' 9.--On resuming the search this morning Mr. A. Jardine
met Eulah and Barney. They also, had seen "Lucifer" on the coast,
but could do nothing with him. Detaching Sambo and Barney to
continue the search after the mule, and giving them all the
provision, he took Eulah with him to try once again to recover
"Lucifer." Picking up his trail at last night's camp, where they
left the three recovered horses, they ran it four miles up the river
and came upon him in a patch of scrub; they headed him after a hard
gallop and endeavoured to drive him down to the other horses, but all
to no purpose, they knocked up their horses and were obliged to
abandon the pursuit. He had evidently gone mad. Returning to the
camp they got fresh horses, and returned with the three to the party
of the main camp.
'December' 10.--The two lost horses ("Lucifer" and "Deceiver") being
Mr. Jardine's best hacks and favourites, he determined to make one
more effort to recover them. Starting with Eulah this morning, he
travelled down the creek on which the cattle were camped for six
miles west, when he reached some large marine plains and downs, so
large, that though they ascended a high tree they could see nothing
between them and the horizon; they were grassed only with spinifex
"and other rubbish." They came on to Lucifer's tracks about 25 miles
from the camp, and found the place where he had been drinking the
salt water and lying down. From thence they followed his tracks for
15 miles through the tea-tree levels, and camped without water, after
having travelled, walking and riding, over between 40 or 50 miles of
the most miserable and desolate country imaginable, without finding
any fit to drink. Meanwhile Alexander Jardine took another cast to
find water and have a look at the coast. He also saw the Marine
Plains, and found them utterly waterless. This decided the question
of the coast-line route.
'December' 11.--At daylight Mr. Jardine and Eulah again got on to
Lucifer's tracks, but the ground was so hard that they had to run
them on foot and lead their horses. At sun-down they hit camp 33 on
the river, having made only about 20 miles in a straight line. Here
they had a good drink. The water was rather brackish, but after two
days travelling over a parched and arid country, almost anything
would have been acceptable. They turned out and whilst trying to
catch something for their suppers, they saw Lucifer standing within
thirty yards of where their horses were feeding, but the moment he
caught sight of them he again galloped away. Mr. Jardine immediately
jumped on his horse and brought him back to Eulah's, but to no
purpose, for he galloped past without taking the least notice of him,
and as it was now dark they had to let him go. Alexander Jardine
spent the day in searching for water, and was fortunate enough to hit
on a permanent water hole, in a small creek, eight miles N.N.W. from
the camp. This discovery was like a ray of sunshine promising to
help them on their way. At night Sambo and Barney returned, but
without the mule.
'December' 12.--Lucifer was again followed till mid-day. From the
time that he had left their camp last night he had galloped for 13
miles without stopping, and when found he was quite white with sweat.
It was quite evident that he was perfectly mad from the effects of
the salt water, so that Mr. Jardine decided to abandon him without
wasting more horse-flesh. He turned therefore to look for the other
horse "Deceiver," expecting to find him in the same state. His
tracks being found shortly afterwards, they followed them for some
distance, when they came on to his dead carcase. The poor brute had
evidently died from want of water; the Leader therefore turned
homewards, hoping, but little expecting to find that the mule had
been found. These losses were a heavy blow, and sadly crippled the
party. Lucifer and Deceiver were the two best riding horses, and the
mule the best pack animal. His own loss was aggravated by his
carrying his pack with him. This carried most of the odd articles
that were hitherto deemed indispensible, but which henceforth they
had per force to dispense with. One pack contained all that remained
of the tea, currants, and raisins, which were saved from the fire,
and two pairs of boots, the only ones the Brothers had; and the other
was filled with oddments, such as files, gimlets, ragstone, steel,
weighing machine, awls, tomahawks, American axes, shoeing tools, and
a number of things "that they could not do without," but perhaps the
most important loss was that of the spade, to which they had many
times been indebted for water. Up to this time, that is to the 37th
camp, the number of the camp had always been cut in the wood of a
tree at each, with a mallet and chissel, these having gone with the
mule's pack the numbers were from this point cut with a tomahawk, but
as Mr. Jardine was expert and careful in its use it is probable that
his marks are but little less legible. The recovery of the mule
being now past all hope the Brothers determined to push on, thankful
that they were certain of water for one stage. It was the more
necessary, as two of the party, Scrutton and Cowderoy, were getting
ill from the effects of the bad water. At this camp Mr. Richardson
fixed the variation at 40 east. He had hitherto used a variation of
6 degrees in his plotting.
'December' 13.--The Leader intended to have camped to-day on the
creek, found by his brother on the 11th, but whilst ahead looking for
a good camp for the morrow, he came at five miles further on, to what
he took to be the "Rocky Creek" of Leichhardt. He turned back
therefore and fetched the cattle on to it, making 13 instead of 8
miles. But on turning out it was found that the water was not
drinkable, although the lagoon was covered with nympheas, generally
supposed to grow only in fresh water. These were white instead of
blue, which might be from the effect of the salt. However at a mile
up the creek, a fine reach of good water was found, two miles long
and sixty yards wide. The bed of the creek contained sandstone rock,
was well grassed, and where crossed, ran about east and north. A
fine barramundi was caught in it, and Alexander Jardine shot six
whistling ducks in the first creek. The country traversed to-day
alternated between extensive marine plains, covered with "pigs face,"
('Misembrianthemum Iriangularis'), and crusted with salt, and low
undulating tea-tree, and banksia ridges. Birds were very plentiful,
large flocks of native companions ('Gurus Antigen,') stalked over the
marine plains, and when seen at the distance had the appearance of a
flock of sheep, gigantic cranes, pelicans, and ibis were numerous,
whilst in the lagoons of the creek, nearly every kind of water-fowl
common to Queensland, was found, except the coot and pigmy goose,
plover and snipe were abundant, also the elegant Burdekin duck, and a
small crane was noticed having a dark blue head and body, with white
throat and neck. (Camp XXXIX.) Lat. 16 degrees 3 minutes 38
seconds. A tree was marked F. J. in heart on one side, and 39 in
square on the other.
'December' 14.--To-day the party started north-east, the Leader
wishing, if possible, to hit the Mitchell at the head of the tide.
Water was carried in case these should not find any, but the
precaution was fortunately unnecessary. At five miles they crossed a
small creek from the eastward, having one small hole of water in it.
The country to that point was similar to that of yesterday, thence
outward for about 9 miles they traversed box flats, intersected with
low sandy rises, well grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and
acacia. Another watered creek was crossed at about 9 miles from the
start, and the camp pitched at a round waterhole, in a well-watered
creek at 14 miles. Many gullies were crossed filled with the
screw-palm ('Pandanus Spirilas.') The soil of the box flats was a
stiff yellow clay. Hot winds had been prevalent for the last week
from the south-east, which parched and baked everything and made the
mosquitoes very numerous and annoying. (Camp XL.) Latitude 15
degrees 56 minutes 31 seconds.
'December' 15.--The grass was so coarse and dry at this camp, that
the precaution was taken of watching the horses all last night, and
the party started this morning by moonlight. For 5 miles they
travelled over box and tea-tree flats, full of funnel ant-hills,
melon and rat-holes, when they reached a narrow deep sandy creek, the
course of which was defined by a line of dark green timber,
presenting a strong and pleasing contrast with any previously crossed
along the "Levels," where they could never be distinguished from a
distance, being fringed with the same kind of timber. It came from
the eastward, was tolerably watered, and presented some bad broken
sandstone country on its north bank. Its shady appearance suggested
the appropriate name of "Arbor Creek." For three miles the route lay
over gullies, spurs, and walls of broken sandstone. The country
beyond opened agreably into flats, which might almost be called
plains, but for the lightly-dotted timber. The grasses though dry,
were finer and better than any seen, since leaving the Einnasleih.
The timber generally was white box, applegum, bloodwood, and
grevillea, and at 11 miles (from camp) the bauhinia, and Bidwill's
acacia commenced, and continued to the 42nd Camp. The flats towards
the end of the stage sloped to the north-east. At 19 miles the party
having accomplished a long stage, Mr. Jardine camped without water,
sending old Eulah to try and find some. He soon returned with the
welcome news that there was a well-watered creek on a-head, so
saddling up again, they drove on and reached it in about three miles.
It was well worth the extra fatigue to the stock. They were rewarded
by an excellent camp, plenty of green grass, open country and water,
which, after a drive of 23 long and dusty miles, was alike acceptable
to men and beasts. The creek received the name of Eulah Creek, in
honor of the discoverer. (Camp XLI.)
'December' 16.--Between two and three miles of travelling over
flooded box country, having large melon holes in it, brought the
party to a well-watered creek, with vine scrub banks running N. W.
At three more, another and similar one was reached, where the scrubs
on the banks were so thick that the Brothers who were a-head had to
camp, to cut a road through them. This creek appeared to be an
ana-branch. Whilst they were engaged in marking a line for a
crossing place for the cattle, they saw some blacks, and tried to
avoid them, these however ran in the direction of the cattle, and
brandishing their spears laughingly, defied the horsemen, beckoning
them to come on. With this they complied, and turned them back over
the creek, and then sat down awaiting the arrival of the cattle.
They were not allowed to remain long in peace, for the natives,
having left their gins on the other side, swam over the creek and
tried to surround them. Being thus forced into a "row," the Brothers
determined to let them have it, only regretting that some of the
party were not with them, so as to make the lesson a more severe one.
The assailants spread out in a circle to try and surround them, but
seeing eight or nine of their companions drop, made them think better
of it, and they were finally hunted back again across the river,
leaving their friends behind them. The firing was heard by the
cattle party, but before they could come up, the fray was over. In
this case, as in all others, the collision was forced on the
explorers, who, as a rule, always avoided making use of their
superior arms. Leaving the cattle in camp, the Brothers spend the
afternoon in exploring the country a-head for 7 miles. After
crossing the river, the course lay through flooded country (the marks
on the trees being in some cases five feet high, covered with box,
and vine scrub, and the water, grasses, and rushes being matted
together with mud and rubbish,) to a large stream with broad sandy
bed, divided into three channels, altogether about 600 yards wide,
but with little water in them. The banks and islands were covered
with vine scrub, and lined with plum ('Owenia,') chestnut
('Castanopermum,') nonda, bauhinia, acacia, white cedar, the corypha
or (fan-leaved palm,) flooded gum, melaleuca (drooping tea-tree,) and
many creepers and shrubs. On the box flats travelled through, some
gunyahs, dams, and weirs were noticed, all constructed of matted
vines and palm leaves, which last grow almost everywhere. One of the
largest of the palms measured 13 1/2 feet at the butt, which is the
smallest end, as they here assume the shape of the bottle tree. This
stream was correctly surmised to be the long desired Mitchell, the
two last creeks being only its ana-branches. Although 10 miles
higher up in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes 56 seconds it is
described by Leichhardt as being 1 1/2 miles wide. It here measured
as before described only about 600 yards. A number of fish were
caught at the camp. (Camp XLII.) Distance 6 miles.
'December' 17.--After some little trouble the cattle were crossed
over this branch, a road having to be cut for them through the scrub.
At 5 miles they crossed another main branch about 450 yards wide, and
camped two miles on the other side of it, on a waterhole in a
Leichhardt-tree flat ('Nauclea Leichhardtii.') The country was the
same as described yesterday. One of the fattest of the cows died
from the effects of some poisonous herb, not detected. Some turkey's
eggs were found, and a wallaby, with which the vine scrubs were
swarming, was shot. The Torres Straits pigeon ('Carpophaga
Luctuosa,') was here met with for the first time on the trip, and
attracted the interest and admiration of the travellers. It is a
handsome bird, about the size of a wonga, the head and body pure
white, the primaries of the wings and edge of the tail feathers
black, and the vent feathers and under tail coverts tinged with a
delicate salmon color. Distance 7 or 8 miles. Course N.N.E. (Camp
XLIII.)
'December' 18.--The river was followed down to-day for 9 miles
through a complete net-work of ana-branches, gullies, and vine scrubs
to another branch, which may be called the true stream. It was 30
yards wide, deep, and running strongly. Here the party had to camp
for about 3 hours, whilst the Brothers searched for a good crossing.
The cattle and pack-horses were crossed in safety, but some of the
pack-bags got wetted in the passage. They were travelled another
mile over to a sandstone bar, crossing another deep sheet of water,
that had been previously found. This stream had been explored in
search of a ford for four miles further up but without success. It
continued of the same width and appeared to do so much further. This
day, Sunday, was marked by the severest conflict the travellers had
yet had with the natives, one which may well be degnified by the name
of the "battle of the Mitchell." On arriving at the running stream
before mentioned, whilst the cattle halted, the Brothers and Eulah,
taking axes with them, to clear the scrub, went down to find a safe
crossing. At about a-mile-and-a-half they came on to a number of
blacks fishing, these immediately crossed to the other side, but on
their return, swam across again in numbers, armed with large bundles
of spears and some nullahs and met them. The horsemen seeing they
were in for another row, now cantered forward towards the camp,
determined this time to give their assailants a severe lesson. This
was interpreted into a flight by the savages, who set up a yell, and
re-doubled their pursuit, sending in their spears thick and fast.
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