productions of the country, and all details that might bear upon its
capabilities for colonization or the reverse; and to collect specimens of
its natural history.

6. It was directed that strict discipline should be observed, and the
regulations by which our intercourse with the natives was to be governed
were laid down; after which the instructions concluded with the following
paragraphs:

No further detail has been given you in these instructions, for, as you
have been made aware of the motives which have induced his Majesty's
Government to send out the expedition, it is supposed each individual
will do his utmost in his situation to carry these objects out, either by
obtaining all possible information or by such other means as may be in
his power.

Although the instructions regarding the expedition are addressed to you
conjointly as conductors of it, it is necessary that the principal
authority and direction should be vested in one individual, on whom the
chief responsibility would rest.

It is to be understood that Lieutenant Grey, the senior military officer,
is considered as commanding the party and the person by whose orders and
instructions all individuals composing the party will be guided and
conform.

...

1837.

All our preparations being completed, there embarked in the Beagle,
besides myself and Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, a surgeon and naturalist,
and Corporals Coles and Auger, Royal Sappers and Miners, who had
volunteered their services; and we sailed from Plymouth on the 5th July
1837.

TENERIFE. AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.

The usual incidents of a sea voyage brought us to Santa Cruz in Tenerife,
where I landed on Wednesday 19th July 1837, about 2 o'clock in the
afternoon. There was a sort of table d'hote at 3 o'clock at an hotel kept
by an Englishman, at which I dined, and was fortunate in so doing as I
met there a German and several English merchants who were principally
engaged in the trade of the country. There was also a gentleman who had
been from his earliest years in the African trade for gums, etc.; and he
gave me many interesting particulars of the wild life the individuals so
occupied are compelled to lead. In the afternoon I made a set of magnetic
observations and then walked out to see the aqueduct; which at about
three-quarters of a mile to the north-east of the town approaches it by a
passage cut through a mountain. The execution of this work must have been
attended with immense labour, for, although the design is grand and
noble, the actual plan upon which it has been completed was by no means
well conceived. The average depth of this cut is at least one hundred and
twenty feet, its length is about one hundred and eighty, whilst its
breadth in many parts is not more than four.

Previously to the construction of this aqueduct the town of Santa Cruz
was very badly supplied with water, indeed so much so that the
inhabitants were, at some periods of the year, compelled to send upwards
of three miles for it; but no want of this nature has ever been
experienced since its completion. The expenses of its construction as
also of keeping it in repair are principally defrayed by a tax upon all
wine and spirits actually consumed in the town.

The scenery of the country I walked through was bold and romantic but by
no means rich; fig-trees grew wild about the mountains, and it seemed
singular that, whenever I approached one, the peasants on the adjacent
hills shouted out in loud tones. As far as I could understand the guide,
this was done to deter us from eating the fruits now just ripe, and, upon
my return to the town and making further enquiries, I found that such was
their custom.

EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.

July 20th.

I started at six o'clock with Mr. Lushington for Oratava, distant about
30 miles from Santa Cruz. We were mounted on small ponies, admirably
adapted to the wretched roads of the country, and accompanied by two
guides who carried our carpet bags.

CAMELS, MATANZAS, THE GUANCHES.

The first town we came to was Laguna, which appeared to be of some
importance; it is distant about four miles from Santa Cruz. On this road
we passed many camels laden with heavy burdens; a circumstance which
rather surprised me for I had always imagined that, owing to the peculiar
formation of its foot, the camel was only fitted for travelling over
sandy ground, whilst the way from Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued
mass of sharp rocks, utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these
animals appeared to move over it without the least inconvenience.

After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very uninteresting
appearance; for, although apparently fertile, it was quite parched up by
the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, who were on foot carrying our
carpet bags, kept up with us by running, and, occasionally when tired,
catching hold of the horses' tails to assist themselves along.

We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of slaughter) so called
from a dreadful slaughter of the Spaniards which was here made by the
Guanches, the aborigines of the island. I examined the spot where this
occurred; it is a narrow defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and
perpendicular rocks on the other, and lies on the only route by which you
can pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well
adapted for the purposes of savage warfare, and the Guanches here made
the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties practised on themselves.

All traces of this interesting people, who were eventually extirpated by
the Spaniards, have long since vanished, and, although I spared no pains,
I could glean but little information about them, but to this subject I
will advert again.

Before breakfast I made a set of magnetic observations, and then,
swallowing a hasty meal, prepared to start. A difficulty however arose
here, for neither Mr. Lushington nor myself spoke a word of Spanish,
although we understood tolerably well what others said to us; the paying
our bill became therefore rather a matter of embarrassment. One of the
guides saw our distress and made signs that he would arrange matters for
us; we accordingly gave him a dollar. With this he paid the bill and I
saw him receive some change, which he coolly pocketed; I afterwards asked
him for it, but he pretended with the utmost nonchalance not to
understand me; so we saw no more of it.

SCENERY NEAR ORATAVA.

In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched but the scenery
compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of the hill above
Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the sight; directly in front
rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the foreground are vineyards, cottages,
and palm-trees; in the centre stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava,
encircled with gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to
the sea which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise
rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.

We now spurred our horses on and, leaving the guides behind, soon reached
La Villa, accompanied by a countryman who had joined us upon a pony; but,
on getting into the town, the melancholy truth rushed upon my
recollection that we could not speak Spanish: had we remained with our
guides this would not much have signified, for they had been told at
Santa Cruz to take us to a hotel.

EMBARRASSMENTS ON ARRIVAL THERE.

Nothing remained now but to do our best to open a communication; we
accordingly accosted a variety of individuals in English, French,
Italian, German--but in vain. Spanish alone was understood or spoken
here; our friend, the countryman, stuck to us most nobly, he understood
us not a bit better than the rest but saw that we were in distress and
would not desert us.

We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could get a little
shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd having soon collected,
we harangued them alternately and received long answers in reply; but,
although able to make out a great deal of what they said, we could not
get them to understand a single word on our part. At length kind fate
sent the guides to our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.

This however brought only partial relief to our wants; we opened our
mouths, and pointed down our throats. So much was understood and a
chicken instantly killed. We laid our heads upon a table, feigning sleep,
and were shown to a wretched room; but here all converse terminated. Mr.
Lushington desired to ascend the Peak therefore it became necessary that
we should hit upon some means of making them comprehend this; but all
efforts were in vain. At length they proposed to send for an interpreter,
which was accordingly done; but he was at dinner, and could not then
come.

At last the interpreter arrived, a Spanish Don who had been for some
years resident in a mercantile house in New York; he was very dirty, but
good-natured, and soon made the necessary arrangements for Mr.
Lushington; who for eight dollars was to be provided with a pony, a
sumpter mule, provisions and guides, taken safely to the top of the Peak
and brought back again; which I thought reasonable enough.

After these arrangements I managed to scrape some acquaintance with this
Spanish gentleman, who told me to my great edification that I was in a
notorious gambling house. I had been informed at Santa Cruz that the
inhabitants of those islands were dreadfully addicted to that vice, and I
now, from personal observation, found this was too true.

After dinner I started to walk to the Port of Oratava, distant about
three miles; there was beautiful scenery the whole way, and a tolerable
road for the island. I called on Mr. Carpenter, the British Consul, to
whom I had a letter, and he made arrangements for my being admitted to
the botanical gardens at six o'clock the next morning.

On my return to La Villa all the roues of the town were assembled at our
hotel to eat ices and gamble: I joined them in the former but not in the
latter amusement.

SPANISH INTERPRETER. MANNERS.

The gentleman who had acted as interpreter for us was also there, but I
could gain very little further information from him. He told me that they
had just heard George the Eighth, the King of England, was dead (William
the Fourth had just died) and his knowledge of the other European
countries was much upon the same scale. I found that gambling was here
carried on to an extent which was really deplorable.

July 21.

I started at half-past five for the botanic gardens, diligently inspected
them, and afterwards made a set of magnetic observations; this occupied a
large portion of the morning. I however still had time to geologise for
about three hours, and then rode back to Santa Cruz, where I did not
arrive till late at night.

STATISTICS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS. TABLES.

July 22.

In the morning I renewed my magnetic observations and, having dined at
the table d'hote, I passed the afternoon in calling upon several persons,
and collecting such information regarding the group of islands as I could
pick up. Two statistical tables then given to me I have here inserted.

The first shows the extent of the seven larger islands and the average
number of inhabitants in each. On these numbers I think dependence may be
placed, as they nearly agree, in the total, with that given by Tarrente
in the Geografia Universal (1828) who makes it 196,517, being about
12,000 above the number given by Humboldt for the gross population at the
end of the last century.

The second table gives the quantity of the most important products raised
annually in each island.

(@@@TABLE OF EXTENT AND NUMBER OF INHABITANTS OF THE SEVEN LARGER
ISLANDS.)

(@@@TABLE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PRODUCTS OF EACH ISLAND.)

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT ORATAVA AND SANTA CRUZ.

To these I have added a short table showing the mean heat of every month
at Tenerife, as deduced from a continued series of daily observations by
Dr. Savignon and Mr. Richardson, at Laguna between the years 1811 and
1818, to which is annexed another of the quantity of rain which fell
during some months of the years 1812 and 1813.

The two gentlemen who had made these observations having since died, I
was not able to obtain any of the actual thermometrical observations, but
to the son of Mr. Richardson I am obliged for having allowed me to copy
the results contained in these tables.

SUMMARY OF OBSERVATIONS MADE BY DR. SAVIGNON* AND MR. RICHARDSON, AT
LAGUNA.

(*Footnote. Monsieur Savignon, Medecin du Gouvernement, se distingue par
un caractere honorable et des connoissances etendues dans la profession.
Voyage aux Terres Australes Tome 1 page 21.)

La temporatura media de la Laguna puedi considerarse de 63 de Fahrenheit,
dentro las casas del centro de la Ciudad, en sombra y al ayre libre;
segun resulta de 8 Anos de observaciones, no interrumpidas ni un solo dia
desde 1811 a 1818.*

POR MESES COMO SIGUE.

Emero, 55 a 55 1/2.
Febrero, 56 a 56.
Marzo, 58 a 58 1/4.
Abril, 59 a 59 1/4.
Mayo, 62 a 62.
Junio, 65 a 65.
Julio, 69 a 68 3/4.
Agosto, 71 a 71 1/4.
Septiembre, 70 a 70 1/4.
Octubre, 66 a 66 3/8.
Noviembre, 62 a 62.
Diciembre, 58 a 58.

62 3/4, media De lo 8 Anos.

(*Footnote. The mean temperature of Laguna may be estimated at 63 degrees
of Fahrenheit, within doors, in the middle of the town; the thermometer
being placed in the shade, and exposed to the air. Result of eight years'
uninterrupted daily observations from 1811 to 1818.)

Rain which fell in two years, 1812 and 1813, in inches. Column 1 1812.
Column 2 1813.

Emero, 10.79 3.34.
Febrero, 2.22 2.46.
Marzo, 0.15 4.17.
Abril, 0.09 2.39.
Mayo.
Junio.
Julio.
Agosto.
Septiembre, - 0.15.
Octubre, 1.76 7.34.
Noviembre, 2.12 4.24.
Diciembre, 2.20 1.13.

19.33 25.22.

In twenty-four hours in January, fell 5.24 inches.

A few observations taken on board the Beagle during the five days it lay
at Santa Cruz seemed to give a mean heat of about 76 degrees; but it must
be remembered that these observations were made in a vessel lying only
about a quarter of a mile from the shore and exposed to the constant rays
of the sun during six days of a season considered by the inhabitants to
be a very warm one. I do not therefore think that the observations of Dr.
Savignon and Mr. Richardson, taken under such very different
circumstances at Laguna, which Von Buch estimates at 264 toises above the
sea, could be far from the truth.

The annual mean temperature of Santa Cruz according to Von Buch is 71
degrees 8' Fahrenheit, or 21 degrees 8' of the centigrade scale.

OCCASIONAL VIOLENT STORMS.

From Mr. Cochrane, a very intelligent English merchant whom I met there,
I obtained much information on various points, and he brought to my
notice the violent storms of wind and rain which occur on the island
occasionally during the rainy season, and cause great destruction and
damage.

DAMAGE BY STORM OF 1826.

One had passed over in the month of March of the year I was there (1837)
and I was fortunate enough to obtain an official account of the damage
occasioned by another in November 1826, which is here annexed. A similar
one was experienced, as will be seen by the table, in January 1812, when
5.24 inches of rain fell in twenty-four hours.

En la noche del 7 al 8 de Novembre 1826, se experimento un temporal de
Viento y Agua, que causo on todas les Yslas muchos estragos. En 8 pueblos
de la de Tenerife, se sufrion las des-gracias que manifiesta el siguente
Estado.

[In the night between the 7th and 8th of November 1826 was experienced a
storm of wind and rain which caused great ravages in all the islands. In
8 districts of Tenerife were sustained the losses enumerated below.]

COLUMN 1: PUEBLOS. Towns.
COLUMN 2: PERSONAS. Persons.
COLUMN 3: CUSAE DESTRUIDAS. Houses Destroyed.
COLUMN 4: ANIMALES. Animals.
COLUMN 5: CASAS ARRUINADAS. Houses Ruined.

Villa de la Oratava 104 144 591 75.
Puerto de la Cruz 32 31 23 6.
Realejo de Arriba 25 41 - -.
Realejo de Abajo 14 9 - 2.
Guancha 52 72 344 31.
Rambla 10 14 13 -.
Ycod 5 - - -.
Santa Ursula 1 - 38 -.

VOCABULARY OF THE CANARIAN DIALECTS.

Sunday July 23.

I procured a few words of the original languages of the Guanches from in
old government manuscript, and as from this circumstance no doubt can
exist as to its authenticity, I have inserted them.

Several of these will be found already published in the History of the
Canary Islands by Glas (page 174) with occasional slight differences of
spelling, whilst the rest, though few in number, are, as far as I am
aware, now first given.

VOCABULARY OF TENERIFE, OF CANARY AND PALMA.

Such scanty vocabularies and some mummies from Tenerife, scattered
through the cabinets of the curious in various parts of Europe, are the
only existing records of the race which held possession of these islands
on the descent of John de Betancourt, about the year 1400, and who were
nearly exterminated within little more than a century after.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA GUANCHINESA O DE TENERIFE.

(Some words of the language of the Guanches, or of Tenerife.)

COLUMN 1: GUANCHEAN.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Achamam : Dios : God.
Achano : Ano : A year.
Achicaxna (Achicarna, Glas.) : Villano : A peasant.
Achimencey : Hidalgo : A nobleman.
Ataman : - : Heaven.
Axa (Ara, Glas.) : Cabra : A Goat.
Banot : Vara Endurecida : A Pole hardened (by fire).
Cancha : Perro : A Dog.
Achicuca : Hijo : A son.
Cichiciquizo : Escudero : A Squire.
Guan (Coran, Glas.) : Hombre : A man.
Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An Earthen vessel.
Hara (Ana, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.
Mencey : El Rey : The King.
Oche (Ahico, Glas.) : Mantera : A mantle.
Sigone : Capitan : A Captain.
Tano : Cebada : Barley.
Xerios : Zapatos : Shoes.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE CANARIA.

(Some words of the language of Canary.)

COLUMN 1: CANARY.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Ahorac : Dios : God.
Almogaron : Adoratorio : A Temple or place of worship.
Amodagas : Varos-tostados : Poles hardened (by fire).
Aramotanoque : Cebada : Barley.
Aridaman : Cabra: A Goat.
Carianas : Espuerta : A Rush or Palm-basket.
Doramas : Narices : Nostrils.
Gofio : Farina de cebada tostada : Flour of baked Barley.
Guanarteme : El Rey : The King.
Guaire : El Consejero : The Councillor.
Magado : Garrote de Guerra : Poles or sticks used as weapons.
Tahagan (Taharan, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.
Tamaranona : Carne Frita : Roasted or broiled meat.
Tamarco : Camisa de pieles : A Garment or shirt of hides or skins.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA PALMESA.

(Some words of the language of Palma.)

COLUMN 1: PALMA.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Abora : Deos : God.
Adijirja : Arroyo : A Rivulet.
Asero : Lugar Fuerte : A Stronghold.
Atinariva : Puerco : A Hog.
Aguayan : Perro : A Dog.
Mayantigo : Pedazo de Cielo : Heavenly.
Tidote : Monte : A Hill.
Tiguevite : Cabra : A Goat.
Tigotan : Cielos : The Heavens.
Yruene : El Diablo : The Devil.

OF THE OTHER ISLANDS.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE FUERTEVENTURA Y LANZEROTA.

(Some words of the language of Fortaventura and Lanzerota.)

COLUMN 1: FUERTEVENTURA AND LANZEROTA.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Aho : Leche : Milk.
Attaha : Hombre de Valor : A Valiant Man.
Elecuenes : Adoratorio : A Place of devotion.
Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.
Guapil : Sombrero : A Hat.
Horbuy : Cuero : A Skin or Hide.
Maxo (Ma, Glas.) : Zapatos : Shoes.
Tabite : Tarro pequeno : A small earthen pan.
Tamocen : Cebada : Barley.
Tezezes : Varas de Acebucha : Poles of the wild olive tree.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DEL HIERRO Y GOMERA.

(Some words of the language of Ferro and Gomera.)

COLUMN 1: FERRO AND GOMERA.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Aculan : Manteca : Butter.
Achemen : Leche : Milk.
Aemon : Agua : Water.
Banot : Garrote de Guerra : War Clubs.
Ganigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.
Haran : Helocho : Furze.
Fubaque : Reses gordas : Fat cattle.
Guatativoa : Un convita : A gathering to a Banquet.
Tahuyan : Bas quinas : A Petticoat of Skins.
Tamasagues : Veras largas : Long Poles.

GUANCHE BONE CAVE. AND REMARKS. MARINE BLOWING STONE.

It was in the course of my enquiries for words of the Guanche language
that I accidentally heard yesterday, from an old inhabitant, of the
existence of a cave in the rocks, about 3 miles to the north-east of
Santa Cruz, which it was impossible to enter, but which, when examined
from the sea, could be observed to be full of bones. This cave, he said,
was known to the old inhabitants by the name of La Cueva de los Guanches;
and according to traditionary report it had been the burying-place of the
original inhabitants of this island. Several English merchants of whom I
made enquiries knew nothing of it, even by report, but the master of the
hotel was aware of its existence and promised to procure me guides to it.
Although this day was Sunday, yet, as I was to sail in the afternoon, the
inducement was too strong to resist, and I started in a boat at 6 o'clock
with Mr. Walker our surgeon, taking my geological hammer as I intended to
return overland.

When we had proceeded about a mile and a half from Santa Cruz I was
astonished to hear, from the rocks on the shore, a loud roaring noise,
and to see large clouds apparently of ascending smoke. I landed to
ascertain the cause of this, and found it arose from one of those hollow
rocks which are sometimes seen on our own coast and are known by various
names, such as blowing stones, boiling kettles, etc. etc. I had however
never seen one at all to be compared to this in size. It was formed by a
hole in the rocks through which the water is first poured as the waves
rush in; and then is partly driven out with a loud noise through a hole
far up, and partly returns, in the form of spray, by the opening through
which it was at first impelled. By assuming a proper position with regard
to the sun a most beautiful rainbow is seen in this spray as it is dashed
high into the air, and the whole is well worthy of a visit. Having
collected some shells and geological specimens we again embarked for the
cave.

On reaching the spot we distinctly observed, from the shore, the mouths
of two caves full of bones. As the Guanches were in the habit of
embalming their dead I entertained hopes of obtaining from them a mummy,
of which there are several preserved in the Canary Islands. Upon landing
however I found that they were utterly inaccessible, being situated in a
perpendicular rock about 150 feet above the level of high water mark, and
a considerable distance beneath the summit of the cliff. I had indulged a
hope of being able to swing into one of the caves by means of a rope
suspended from the top, but, owing to a large rock which projects from
above quite over their mouths, this would be very difficult. Several
bones had been blown out of the apertures, which I collected and found
them to have belonged to man, but otherwise displaying nothing
remarkable.

I can scarcely entertain a doubt but these caves really were the
burying-places of the ancient Guanches, yet how they were approached I
cannot conceive; probably there might have been an entrance to them from
the interior of the country. I searched but my time was short and I could
find no traces of such. An interesting question here remains to be solved
and I trust some future traveller may be induced to attempt it.

There is only one other supposition I could frame on this subject, and to
this I am led from the fact of the bones lying so immediately in the
caves' mouths. Could a party of the Guanches, when so oppressed and so
cruelly treated by the Spaniards, have taken refuge by some means in
these caverns, and afterwards, from their retreat being cut off, have
found themselves unable to escape and have here perished miserably;
looking out of the cavern to the last for that assistance they were never
doomed to receive? If they had managed to enter these caves by a narrow
pathway running along the face of the cliffs, which the Spaniards
afterwards destroyed, such an occurrence might readily have taken place.

Having completed my examination I dismissed the boat and walked back to
Santa Cruz, from whence we sailed at five o'clock this evening.


CHAPTER 2. TO BAHIA AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

ATMOSPHERICAL PHENOMENON AT SEA.

Nothing important occurred during the voyage from Tenerife to Bahia; but
one atmospherical phenomenon I think is worthy at a future day of further
enquiry.

I remarked constantly, just at sunset, in these latitudes, that the
eastern horizon was brilliantly illuminated with a kind of mock sunset.
This in a short time disappeared, to be soon succeeded by another similar
in character, but more faint. I observed at the same time, in the western
horizon, the regular sunset, and then two appearances, like those seen in
the east; perhaps this may be fully accounted for by a triple reflection,
as in the common theory of the rainbow.

LAND AT BAHIA.

August 17.

We came in sight of the coast of South America about noon, and dropped
anchor in the harbour of Bahia at four P.M.; and about half an hour after
I went on shore with Mr. Lushington, a person of the name of Wilson
taking us in his boat: there was a slave in the boat, and, not knowing
that he understood English, I asked Mr. Wilson several questions about
slaves in general, and he gave me a good deal of information on this
subject, mentioning among other things that the price of a good slave
here varied from 90 to 100 pounds, he happened to state that the slaves
were wretched in their own country, and that frequently large numbers
were sacrificed to their gods. I never saw so fine a burst of natural
indignation as the slave in the boat evinced at this statement; his lip
curled up with scorn, his dark eye grew vividly bright, and his frame
quivered as he made an impassioned reply in Portuguese; I could not
understand all that he said, but caught enough to know the tenor of it,
that "this was not the case; Englishmen or foreigners never visited his
country, so how could they know." It was not so much what he said but the
scornful bitterness of his manner that made an impression on me, not
easily to be effaced.

NIGHT WALK.

I took a night walk in the country this evening and experienced those
wild and undescribable feelings which accompany the first entrance into a
rich tropical country. I had arrived just towards the close of the rainy
season, when everything was in full verdure, and new to me. The luxuriant
foliage expanding in magnificent variety, the brightness of the stars
above, the dazzling brilliancy of the fireflies around me, the breeze
laden with balmy smells, and the busy hum of insect life making the deep
woods vocal, at first oppress the senses with a feeling of novelty and
strangeness till the mind appears to hover between the realms of truth
and falsehood.

THE TOWN OF BAHIA.

The town of Bahia looks very beautiful from the sea; but on entering you
find it dreadfully filthy. The stench of the lower town is horrible. Even
the President's palace is a dirty and wretched-looking building: his
salary, I understand, is 600 pounds a year. By the last returns the
population of the town was 120,000, 100,000 of whom were blacks. All the
burdens here are carried by slaves as there are no carts and the breed of
horses is small, being perfect ponies.

The exports are cotton and sugar--the cotton chiefly to Liverpool, the
sugar to all European countries but England. Their imports are English
cotton goods and hardware, also various manufactured goods from Germany.
The nuns are famed for the manufacture of artificial feathers and
flowers.

The fruit here is excellent, the oranges are particularly fine.

The merchants in the town are principally English and German. There is no
American house. Several have started but all who made the attempt have
failed.

You cannot penetrate any great distance into the interior as there are no
roads but only little pathways through the woods. The Indians are
frequently seen very near the town.

STATE OF SOCIETY.

This part of Brazil offered the curious spectacle of a great evil, which
has been long suffered to exist and is now advancing, gradually yet
surely, to that state which must entail inevitable destruction on the
existing Government of the country. I allude to the immense slave
population which, owing to a short-sighted policy, has been allowed to
increase so rapidly from the frequent and numerous importations that at
the present moment they are in the ratio of 10 to 1 to the white
population, to whom they are also, individually, immensely superior in
physical strength; the Brazilians being the most insignificant and feeble
race of men I have ever yet seen.

DANGERS FROM SLAVE POPULATION.

The blacks are perfectly aware of their own power, and about two years
ago had arranged a plan for seizing the town and murdering all the whites
with the exception of foreigners; which miscarried only by the affair
being discovered a few hours before it broke out. This plan was however
so wisely and boldly conceived, both as a whole and in detail, that it
alone affords the most conclusive evidence that the slave population in
this country are by no means deficient either in mental powers or
personal courage.

The Brazilians themselves are aware of the danger which threatens them,
and yet evince an extraordinary degree of supineness with regard to it.
They have indeed framed certain regulations as to the slaves being all
within their houses at an early hour of the evening, etc. etc., and these
they deem sufficient for their protection; yet to an unprejudiced
observer it would appear that, unless some much more effective measures
are adopted, within a few years from the present time the whole of this
fine country will be in the hands of the blacks: and indeed I think one
would be justified in concluding that the moment which produces a person
sufficiently intriguing again to stir up the slaves, and endowed with the
firmness and talent necessary to conduct an emeute of this nature, will
be the last of the Brazilian Empire.

POLITICAL CONDITION OF THE STATE.

It is evident from what I have before stated that the only hope the white
population can reasonably entertain of retaining their present position
must be in the most perfect union and concord amongst themselves, and
that, when a unity of design and action ceases to exist between the
different provinces, their fate is sealed. Yet this circumstance never
appears to enter into their calculations; and at this instant each state
is plotting its separation from the Empire. The inhabitants here openly
state their intention of revolting and declaring their independence, and
Sunday next is even mentioned as the day for the commencement of the
rising.*