|
|
_Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other
_Mustard_ should be.
_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a
polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most
preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only.
VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to
too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here
let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet
Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other
_Peppers_, and more wholsom.
Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted
to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention
_Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_,
_Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue.
Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the
_German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling it
with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and
sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_
and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its
golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt
to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little
incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_.
VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_,
boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_,
_Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the
Herbs.
VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_,
with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_,
&c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are
apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of.
IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes)
be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep
nor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients;
_Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and
_Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there
ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid
_Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they
are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually
stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are
husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt
to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled
and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis
incredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the
gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly
of _Sallet-Herbs_.
The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and
neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions.
Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_,
_Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several
Seasons you have in the following Table.
It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_
were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them?
we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Principal
Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty
Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving
out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under
these three or four Heads.
But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and
therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each
containing and lasting Three Months.
_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no
more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next
Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful.
* * * * *
[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their
original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section
headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these
new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually
indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.]
=========================================================================
Species. Ordering and Culture.
=========================================================================
/ 1. _Endive_, Tied-up to Blanch.
| 2. _Cichory_, \
| 3. _Sellery_, | Earth'd-up
IX. | 4. _Sweet-Fennel_, |
Blanch'd | 5. _Rampions_, /
|
| 6. _Roman_ \ \ Tied-up to Blanch.
| 7. _Cosse_ | _Lettuce,_ |
| 8. _Silesian_ | | Tied close up.
\ 9. _Cabbage_ / / Pome and Blanch of themselves.
/ 10. _Lob-Lettuce_, \
| 11. _Corn-Sallet_, | Leaves, all of a midling size.
| 12. _Purslane_, /
|
XXVI. | 13. _Cresses_ broad, \ Seed-Leaves,
| 14. _Spinach_, curled, / and the next to them.
|
Green | 15. _Sorrel_, French, \ The fine young Leaves only,
Unblanch'd | 16. _Sorrel_, Greenland, / with the first Shoots.
|
| 17. _Radish_, Only the tender young Leaves.
| 18. _Cresses_, The Seed-Leaves, and those
| only next them.
| 19. _Turnip_, \
| 20. _Mustard_, | The Seed-Leaves only.
| 21. _Scurvy-grass_, /
|
| 22. _Chervil_, \ The young Leaves
| 23. _Burnet_, | immediately after
| 24. _Rocket_, Spanish, | the Seedlings.
| 25. _Persly_, /
|
| 26. _Tarragon_, \ The tender Shoots
| 27. _Mints_, / and Tops.
|
| 28. _Sampier_, \
| 29. _Balm_, | The young tender
| 30. _Sage_, Red, / Leaves and Shoots.
|
| 31. _Shalots_, \
| 32. _Cives_ and _Onion_, / The tender young leaves.
|
| 33. _Nasturtium_, Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers.
|
| 34. _Rampion_, Belgrade \ The Seed-Leaves
\ 35. _Trip-Madame_, / and young Tops.
=========================================================================
=========================================================================
Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
/ _Rampions_, / 10 \
Blanch'd | _Endive_, | 2 |
as before | _Succory_, | 5 | Roots in Number.
| _Fennel_, Sweet. | 10 |
\ _Sellery_, \ 4 /
/ _Lamb-Lettuce_, \
| _Lob-Lettuce_, / A pugil of each.
|
| _Radish_, \
| _Cresses_, / Three parts each.
|
| _Turneps_, \
| _Mustard_, Seedlings, / Of each One part.
| _Scurvy-grass_,
| _Spinach_, Two parts.
| _Sorrel_, Greenland, \
Green and | _Sorrel_, French |
Unblanch'd | _Chervil_, sweet, | One part of each.
| _Burnet_, |
| _Rocket_, /
| Twenty large Leaves.
| _Tarragon_,
| _Balm_, \
| _Mint_, / One small part of each.
| _Sampier_,
| _Shalots_, \
| _Cives_, / Very few
|
| _Cabbage_, Winter. Two pugils or
\ small handfuls.
=========================================================================
Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
/ _Lop_, \ \
Blanch'd | _Silesan_, Winter, | Lettuce. | Of each a pugil.
\ _Roman_, Winter, / /
/ _Radishes_, Three parts.
Green Herbs | _Cresses_, Two parts.
Unblanch'd. | _Purselan_, 1 Fasciat,
| or pretty full gripe
| _Sorrel_, French, Two parts.
Note, _That | _Sampier_, One part.
the young | _Onions_, young. Six parts.
Seedling | _Sage_-tops,_ the Red, Two parts.
Leaves of |
Orange and | _Persley_, \
Lemon may | _Cresses_, the Indian, |
all these | _Lettuce_, Belgrade, | Of each One part.
months be | _Trip-Madame_, |
mingled with | _Chervil_, sweet /
the Sallet._ |
\ _Burnet_, Two parts.
=========================================================================
Month. _July_, _August_, and _September_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
Blanch'd, / Silesian _Lettuce_, One whole _Lettuce_.
_and may be |
eaten by | Roman _Lettuce_, \ Two parts.
themselves | _Cress_, /
with some_ |
Nasturtium- \ _Cabbage_, Four parts.
_flowers_.
/ _Cresses_, \
| _Nasturtium_, / Two parts.
|
| _Purslane_, \
| _Lop-Lettuce_, / One part.
|
Green Herbs | Belgrade, _or_ \
_by | Crumpen-_Lettuce_. / Two parts.
themselves |
or mingl'd | _Tarragon_, One part.
with the_ |
Blanch'd. | _Sorrel_, French \
| _Burnet_, / Two parts of each.
|
\ _Trip-Madame_, One part.
=========================================================================
Month. _October_, _November_, and _December_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
/ _Endive. \ Two if large, four
| _Sellery_, | if small, Stalk and
| | part of the Root and
| / tenderest Leaves.
|
Blanch'd | _Lop-Lettuce_, \
| _Lambs-Lettuce_, / An handful of each.
|
| _Radish_, Three parts.
\ _Cresses_, Two parts.
/ _Turneps_, \
| _Mustard_ Seedlings, / One part of each.
Green |
| _Cresses_, broad, \
\ _Spinach_, / Two parts of each.
* * * * *
_Farther Directions concerning the proper_ Seasons _for the_ Gathering,
Composing, _and_ Dressing _of a_ Sallet.
And _First_, as to the _Season_ both _Plants_ and _Roots_ are then
properly to be _Gather'd_, and in prime, when most they abound with
Juice and in Vigour: Some in the _Spring_, or a little anticipating
it before they Blossom, or are in full Flower: Some in the _Autumnal_
Months; which later Season many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in
such exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and so render'd fit
for _Salleting_, 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new, and
tender Shoots and Leaves.
This, indeed, as to the _Root_, newly taken out of the Ground is true;
and therefore should such have their _Germination_ stopt the sooner: The
approaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; as
does Heat the contrary, which now would but exhaust them: But for those
other _Esculents_ and Herbs imploy'd in our _Composition_ of _Sallets_,
the early _Spring_, and ensuing Months (till they begin to mount, and
prepare to _Seed_) is certainly the most natural, and kindly Season
to collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then consult
_Culpeper_, or the _Figure-flingers_, to inform them when the governing
_Planet_ is in its _Exaltation_; but look upon the _Plants_ themselves,
and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions.
Moreover, in _Gathering_, Respect is to be had to their Proportions,
as provided for in the _Table_ under that Head, be the Quality
whatsoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than
_Lettuce_ and _Mustard_ for the _Head_ and _Eyes_; yet either of them
eaten in excess, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much of
the _first_ extreamly debilitating and weakning the _Ventricle_, and
hastning the further decay of sickly _Teeth_; and of the _second_ the
_Optic Nerves_, and _Sight_ it self; the like may be said of all the
rest. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Person, well acquainted with the
Nature and Properties of _Sallet-Herbs_, &c. to be both the fittest
_Gatherer_ and _Composer_ too; which yet will require no great Cunning,
after once he is acquainted with our _Table_ and _Catalogue_.
We purposely, and _in transitu_ only, take notice here of the Pickl'd,
_Muriated_, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants,
and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to be
eaten altogether _Crude_, (of which in the _Appendix_) and among which
I reckon _Ash-keys_, _Broom-buds_ and _Pods_, _Haricos_, _Gurkems_,
_Olives_, _Capers_, the Buds and Seeds of _Nasturtia_, _Young
Wall-nuts_, _Pine-apples_, _Eringo_, _Cherries_, _Cornelians_,
_Berberries_, _&c._ together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits;
Ordinary Pot-herbs, _Anis_, _Cistus Hortorum_, _Horminum_, _Pulegium_,
_Satureia_, _Thyme_; the intire Family of Pulse and _Legumena_; or other
_Sauces_, _Pies_, _Tarts_, _Omlets_, _Tansie_, _Farces_, &c. _Condites_
and Preserves with _Sugar_ by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all
of them the genuine Production of the _Garden_, and mention'd in our
_Kalendar_, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selves
to such Plants and _Esculenta_ as we find at hand; delight our selves
to gather, and are easily prepar'd for an _Extemporary Collation_,
or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more
Agreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is.
But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or more
proper, to _Begin_ with _Sallets_, or End and Conclude with them? Some
think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction;
others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and prevent
Obstruction; and this makes for our _Sallets_, _Horarii_, and _Fugaces
Fructus_ (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable to
the general Opinion of the great _Hippocrates_, and _Galen_, and of
_Celsus_ before him. And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin with
their _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given:
[60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_
_Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_.
And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m
arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary,
[62]_Grataque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_.
But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eating
plentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigerating
Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to
expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, the
spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of a
crude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturb
a surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with _Sallets_,
and innovate the ancient Usage.
[63]----_Nam Lactuca innatat acri_
_Post Vinum Stomacho_----
For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat,
It floats upon the Stomach----
The _Spaniards_, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner,
especially _Lettuce_, beginning with _Fruit_, even before the _Olio_ and
Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating the
best Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remains
undecided with them,
[64]_Claudere quae coenas_ Lactuca _solebat avorum_
_Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?_
The _Sallet_, which of old came in at last,
Why now with it begin we our Repast?
And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple:
Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and other
Tree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; and
when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do
properly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to which
this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of
hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already
publish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the _Dressing_, and
_Composing_ of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long to
see the _Rules_ reduc'd to _Practice_, and Refresh himself with what
he finds growing among his own _Lactuceta_ and other Beds of the
_Kitchin-Garden_.
* * * * *
DRESSING
I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent _Cook_, or of those who
set up, and value themselves, for their skill in _Sauces_; such as was
_Mithacus_ a _Culinary Philosopher_, and other _Eruditae Gulae_; who read
Lectures of _Hautgouts_, like the _Archestratus_ in _Athenaeus_: Tho'
after what we find the _Heroes_ did of old, and see them chining out the
slaughter'd _Ox_, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both _Cook_
and _Butcher_, (for so [66]_Homer_ represents _Achilles_ himself, and
the rest of those Illustrious _Greeks_) I say, after this, let none
reproach our _Sallet-Dresser_, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, and
Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and _Nidor_, Blood
and Cruelty; whilst all the World were _Eaters_, and _Composers_ of
_Sallets_ in its best and brightest Age.
The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the
_Endive_ have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing _in_ the
White: In like manner the _Sellery_ is also to have the hollow green
Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, and
cutting the Root into four equal Parts.
_Lettuce_, _Gresses_, _Radish_, &c. (as was directed) must be
exquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer;
swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or all
together; Because some like not so well the _Blanch'd_ and Bitter
Herbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle _Endive_, _Succory_, and
_Rampions_, without distinction, and generally eat _Sellery_ by it
self, as also Sweet _Fennel_.
From _April_ till _September_ (and during all the Hot _Months_) may
_Guinny-Pepper_, and _Horse-Radish_ be left out; and therefore we only
mention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner.
Your _Herbs_ being handsomely parcell'd, and spread on a clean Napkin
before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd
Dishes: Then, for the _Oxoleon_; Take of clear, and perfectly good
_Oyl-Olive_, three Parts; of sharpest _Vinegar_ ([67]sweetest of all
_Condiments_) _Limon_, or Juice of _Orange_, one Part; and therein let
steep some Slices of _Horse-Radish_, with a little _Salt_; Some in a
separate _Vinegar_, gently bruise a _Pod_ of _Guinny-Pepper_, straining
both the _Vinegars_ apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or of
both, as they best like; then add as much _Tewkesbury_, or other dry
_Mustard_ grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle
all these very well together; but pour not on the _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_,
'till immediately before the _Sallet_ is ready to be eaten: And then
with the _Yolk_ of two new-laid _Eggs_ (boyl'd and prepar'd, as before
is taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; and
lastly, pour it all upon the _Herbs_, stirring, and mingling them 'till
they are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of
_Aromaticks_, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if you
think fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of
_Horse-Radish_, _Red Beet_, _Berberries_, &c.
_Note_, That the _Liquids_ may be made more, or less _Acid_, as is most
agreeable to your Taste.
These _Rules_, and _Prescriptions_ duly _Observ'd_; you have a _Sallet_
(for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) _Dress'd_, and Accommodated
_secundum Artem_: For, as the [68]Proverb has it,
[Greek: 'Ou oantos andros esin artusai kalos.]
_Non est cujusvis recte condire_.
And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the _Herbaceous_ Diet,
there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of _Crude
Herbs_ and _Plants_ are so wholesom as is pretended?
What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall see
hereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer,
before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with the
Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People,
who to this Day, living on _Herbs_ and _Roots_, arrive to incredible
Age, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the
_Air_ and _Climate_, _Custom_, _Constitution_, &c. should be inquir'd
into; especially, when we compare the _Antediluvians_ mention'd _Gen._
1. 29--the whole _Fifth_ and _Ninth_ Chapters, _ver._ 3. confining them
to _Fruit_ and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the _Air_ and
_Earth_ might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants,
and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since,
and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid
Carcasses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I find
few, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted the
Air: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundreds
of _Essex_) being more obnoxious to _Fevers_, _Agues_, _Pleurisies_,
and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'd
with what it likely was before that destructive _Cataclysm_, when
Men breath'd the pure _Paradisian_ Air, sucking in a more _aethereal_,
nourishing, and baulmy _Pabulum_, so foully vitiated now, thro' the
Intemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of the
Ages since.
_Custom_, and _Constitution_ come next to be examin'd, together with
the Qualities, and _Vertue_ of the Food; and I confess, the two first,
especially that of _Constitution_, seems to me the more likely Cause of
Health, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider of
what Quality the usual _Sallet_ Furniture did more eminently consist,
that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour,
and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures
might be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whose
Constitutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Things
which are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions,
with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the _Junior
Gordian_ (and others like him) prefer the _frigidae Mensae_ (as of old
they call'd _Sallets_) which, according to _Cornelius Celsus_, is the
fittest Diet for _Obese_ and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, and
apt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated;
such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherish
the Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive
the Spirits: And therefore my _Lord_ [69]_Bacon_ shews what are best
Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. _Galen_
indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their due
Correctives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that even
the most _Crude_ and _Herby_, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be
Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whose
Food is only Grass. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd,
and dress'd a _Sallet_ for them in every field, besides what they
distinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plants
and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and not
Experience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of their
Properties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events,
supposing with [70]_Cardan_, that Plants nourish little, they hurt as
little. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all,
but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such
admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not
only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as
_Onions_, _Garlick_, _Rochet_, &c. which are both nutritive and warm;
_Lettuce_, _Purselan_, the _Intybs_, &c. and indeed most of the _Olera_,
refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into
the Substances of our Bodies, they become _Aliment_; so in regard of
their Change and Alteration, we may allow them _Medicinal_; especially
the greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of
very few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole _Materia
Medica_) which may be justly call'd _Infallible Specifics_, and upon
whose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such as
familiarly we use for a Crude _Herb-Sallet;_ discreetly chosen, mingl'd,
and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, and
render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in _Oyl_, _Vinegar_,
and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay,
perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture,
Constitution, and _Season_ rightly be understood) we stand up in Defence
and Vindication of our _Sallet_, against all Attacks and Opposers
whoever.
We have mentioned _Season_ and with the great _Hippocrates_, pronounce
them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Parts
of Plants us'd in _Sallet_ are yet tender, delicate, and impregnated
with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat and
Drought of the Hot and _Bilious_, Young and over-_Sanguine_, Cold,
_Pituit_, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours,
and Constitutions whatsoever.
To this of the _Annual Seasons_, we add that of _Culture_ also, as of
very great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste and
consequently in the Goodness of such Plants and _Salleting_, as are
Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with those
which the Avarice of the _Gardiner_, or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts
them to force and _Resuscitate_ of the most desirable and delicious
Plants.
It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities,
where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early _Salleting_, nothing
is more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy and
fresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle
and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung,
loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by the
Wind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with those
pernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the _Hot Beds_
for the raising those _Praecoces_ indeed, and forward Plants and Roots
for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannot
but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. And
the same was well observ'd by the _Editor_ of our famous _Roger Bacon's_
Treatise concerning the _Cure of Old Age_, and _Preservation of Youth_:
There being nothing so proper for _Sallet Herbs_ and other _Edule
Plants_, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd
with well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture of
Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd and
ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self,
as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderately
Perflatile Grounds; where not only _Plants_ but _Men_ do last, and live
much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, and
other Grain rais'd from _Marle_, _Chalk_, _Lime_, and other sweet Soil
and Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the _Dunghil_ only.
Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of _Dung_ is frequently the
Cause of Blasts and Smuttiness; as if the _Lord_ of the _Universe_,
by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of all
unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Difference
in Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in _Fowl_, from such
as are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable
_Meats_, so of _Drinks_, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, according
to the Soil, produces a _Wine_ twice as heady as in the same, and a
less forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to
determine any thing of the _Peach_ said to be Poison in _Persia_;
because 'tis a _Vulgar Error_.
Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and
spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as _Early
Asparagus_, &c. [73]Dr. _Lister_, (according to his communicative and
obliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our _Gardiners_
cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying of
Clean and Sweet _Wheat-Straw_ upon the Beds, _super-seminating_ and
over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised _Oyster-Shells_,
&c. to produce that most tender and delicious _Sallet_. In the mean
while, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd _Ex tempore_, and
by Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the
_Adepti_) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That having
some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting an
early Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed _Lettuce_ and some
other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; which
within the space of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high,
presented them with a delicate and tender _Sallet_; and this, without
making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients not
altogether so cheap perhaps. _Honoratus Faber_ (no mean _Philosopher_)
shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in _Vinegar_,
casting on it a good quantity of _Bean-Shell_ Ashes, irrigating them
with _Spirit of Wine_, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry
Matts. Such another Process for the raising early _Peas_ and _Beans_,
&c. we have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable and
certain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such as
the honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden
seasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time,
and without forcing Nature.
But to return again to _Health_ and _Long Life_, and the Wholesomness
of the Herby-Diet, [75]_John Beverovicius_, a Learn'd Physician (out of
_Peter Moxa_, a _Spaniard_) treating of the extream Age, which those of
_America_ usually arrive to, asserts in behalf of Crude and Natural
Herbs: _Diphilus_ of old, as [76]_Athenaeus_ tells us, was on the other
side, against all the Tribe of _Olera_ in general; and _Cardan_ of late
(as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to
be much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonist
utterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest
_Northern_) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than
the _Southern_; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil,
and of deeper Penetration: Witness the _Chaldaeans_, _Assyrians_,
_AEgyptians_, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most
_Carnivorous_ Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminating
kind; as the _Hart_, _Camel_, and the longaevous _Elephant_, and other
Feeders on Roots and Vegetables.
I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of _Dissimilar_
Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion,
keeping to the same _Species_; of which there is infinitely more Variety
in the _Herby_ Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is in
the _Generical_ Difference of _Flesh_, _Fish_, _Fruit_, &c. with other
made Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has
introduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour things
of such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and of
contrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food of
the same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]_Celsus_,
_Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiae, genus, & modus
pertineat_. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regard
should be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quantity and Quality of the
Matter. As to that of _Dissimilar_ Parts, requiring this contended for
Variety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not)
there is (after all the late Contests about _Comparative Anatomy_) so
little Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts and
Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and
other Separations for Supply of Life, _&c._ That it does not appear
why there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the most
simple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; according
to that of the [79]Naturalist, _Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex_.
And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldom
afflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned:
And if the many Diseases of _Horses_ seem to [80]contradict it, I am apt
to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd
Stable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; being
restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Nature
and Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air,
standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches,
unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant _Horse-Quacks_
and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring
Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds,
_&c._ which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous
Creatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whom
their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their
long and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the rest
of their Lives (as the _Grand Seignior_ does his _Meccha-Camel_) have
been known to live _forty_, _fifty_, nay (says [81]_Aristotle_,) no fewer
than _sixty five_ Years. When once Old _Par_ came to change his simple,
homely Diet, to that of the _Court_ and _Arundel-House_, he quickly sunk
and dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concocts
plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, to
vanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we so
often see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, very
healthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'd
than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet.
[83]----_Nam variae res_
_Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae,_
_Quae simplex olim tibi sederit_----
For different Meats do hurt;
Remember how
When to one Dish confin'd, thou
healthier wast than now:
was _Osellus's Memorandum_ in the Poet.
Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assist
our Appetite) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshing
and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives;
Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular
Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and
other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise,
and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needs
little or no Variety to quicken and content it.
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