Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, _&c._ challenge not the name of
_Sallet_ so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore,

Those who _Criticize_ not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguish
the [4]_Olera_ (which were never eaten _Raw_) from _Acetaria_, which
were never _Boil'd;_ and so they derive the Etymology of _Olus_, from
_Olla, the Pot_. But others deduce it from [Greek: Olos], comprehending
the _Universal Genus_ of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from [Greek: Pan]
_Panis;_ esteeming that he who had [5]_Bread_ and _Herbs_, was
sufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire: Others
again will have it, _ab Olendo_, i.e. _Crescendo_, from its continual
_growth and springing up_: So the younger _Scaliger_ on _Varro_: But his
Father _Julius_ extends it not so generally to all Plants, as to all
the _Esculents_, according to the Text: _We call those_ Olera (says
[6]_Theophrastus) which are commonly eaten_, in which sense it may be
taken, to include both _Boil'd_ and _Raw_: Last of all, _ab Alendo_,
as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the
[7]Creation.

A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the
_Cumini Sectores_, and impertinently Curious; whilst as it concerns
the business in hand, we are by _Sallet_ to understand a particular
Composition of certain _Crude_ and fresh Herbs, such as usually are,
or may safely be eaten with some _Acetous_ Juice, _Oyl, Salt_, &c. to
give them a grateful Gust and _Vehicle_; exclusive of the [8][Greek:
psuchrai trapezai], eaten without their due Correctives, which the
Learned [9]_Salmasius_, and, indeed generally, the [10]old _Physicians_
affirm (and that truly) all _Crude_ and raw [Greek: lachana] require
to render them wholsome; so as probably they were from hence, as
[11]_Pliny_ thinks, call'd _Acetaria_: and not (as _Hermolaus_ and
some others) _Acceptaria ab Accipiendo_; nor from Accedere, though so
[12]ready at hand, and easily dress'd; requiring neither _Fire, Cost_,
or _Attendance_, to boil, roast, and prepare them as did Flesh, and
other Provisions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always
in use, _&c._ And hence indeed the more frugal _Italians_ and _French_,
to this Day, gather _Ogni Verdura_, any thing almost that's _Green_
and Tender, to the very Tops of _Nettles_; so as every Hedge affords
a _Sallet_ (not unagreeable) season'd with its proper _Oxybaphon_ of
_Vinegar, Salt, Oyl_, &c. which doubtless gives it both the Relish
and Name of _Salad, Emsalada_[13], as with us of _Sallet_; from the
_Sapidity_, which renders not _Plants_ and _Herbs_ alone, but _Men_
themselves, and their Conversations, pleasant and agreeable: But of
this enough, and perhaps too much; least whilst I write of _Salt_ and
_Sallet_, I appear my self _Insipid_: I pass therefore to the
Ingredients, which we will call


Furniture _and_ Materials


The _Materials_ of _Sallets_, which together with the grosser _Olera_,
consist of _Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers_, &c. _Fruits_
(belonging to another Class) would require a much ampler Volume, than
would suit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an _Appendix_
only) should we extend the following _Catalogue_ further than to a brief
enumeration only of such _Herbaceous_ Plants, _Oluscula_ and smaller
_Esculents_, as are chiefly us'd in _Cold Sallets_, of whose Culture we
have treated there; and as we gather them from the _Mother_ and _Genial
Bed_, with a touch only of their _Qualities_, for Reasons hereafter
given.


1. Alexanders, _Hipposelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare_ (much of the
nature of _Persly_) is moderately hot, and of a cleansing Faculty,
Deobstructing, nourishing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle fresh
Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be chosen, and the Stalks eaten in the
Spring; and when _Blanch'd_, in Winter likewise, with _Oyl, Pepper,
Salt_, &c. by themselves, or in Composition: They make also an excellent
_Vernal_ Pottage.


2. Artichaux, _Cinara_, (_Carduus Sativus_) hot and dry. The Heads being
slit in quarters first eaten raw, with _Oyl_, a little _Vinegar, Salt_,
and _Pepper_, gratefully recommend a Glass of _Wine_; Dr. _Muffet_ says,
at the end of Meals.

They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh _Butter_
crisp with _Persley_. But then become a most delicate and excellent
Restorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The
_Bottoms_ are also bak'd in _Pies_, with _Marrow, Dates_, and other rich
Ingredients: In _Italy_ they sometimes broil them, and as the Scaly
Leaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet _Oyl_; but with Care
extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that
hazard escap'd, they eat them with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_.

The Stalk is _Blanch'd_ in Autumn, and the _Pith_ eaten raw or boil'd.
The way of preserving them fresh all Winter, is by separating the
_Bottoms_ from the _Leaves_, and after Parboiling, allowing to every
_Bottom_, a small earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in fresh
melted _Butter_, as they do Wild-Fowl, _&c._ Or if more than one, in
a larger Pot, in the same Bed and Covering, _Layer_ upon _Layer_.

They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper
being put between every _Bottom_, to hinder them from touching one
another, and so hung up in a dry place. They are likewise _Pickl'd_.

'Tis not very long since this noble _Thistle_ came first into _Italy_,
Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and so rare in _England_, that
they were commonly sold for _Crowns_ a piece: But what _Carthage_ yearly
spent in them (as _Pliny_ computes the Sum) amounted to _Sestertia Sena
Millia_, 30000 _l. Sterling_.

_Note_, That the _Spanish Cardon_, a wild and smaller _Artichoak_, with
sharp pointed Leaves, and lesser Head; the Stalks being _Blanch'd_ and
tender, are serv'd-up _a la Poiverade_ (that is with _Oyl, Pepper_, &c.)
as the _French_ term is.


3. Basil, _Ocimum_ (as _Baulm_) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not too
strong, somewhat offensive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Tops
to be very sparingly us'd in our _Sallet_.


4. Baulm, _Melissa, Baum_, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating,
sovereign for the Brain, strengthning the Memory, and powerfully chasing
away _Melancholy_. The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with other
Herbs; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd, put into _Wine_ or other Drinks,
during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickness: This noble
Plant yields an incomparable _Wine_, made as is that of _Cowslip_-Flowers.


5. Beet, _Beta_; of which there is both _Red, Black_, and _White_: The
_Costa_, or Rib of the _White Beet_ (by the _French_ call'd the _Chard_)
being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the _Roots_ (especially
of the _Red_) cut into thin slices, boil'd, when cold, is of it self a
grateful winter _Sallet_; or being mingl'd with other _Oluscula, Oyl,
Vinegar, Salt_, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moist, and naturally
somewhat _Laxative_: But however by the _Epigrammatist_ stil'd
_Foolish_ and _Insipid, as Innocentior quam Olus_ (for so the Learned
[14]_Harduin_ reads the place) 'tis by _Diphilus_ of old, and others
since, preferr'd before _Cabbage_ as of better Nourishment: _Martial_
(not unlearn'd in the Art of _Sallet_) commends it with _Wine_ and
_Pepper_: He names it indeed--_Fabrorum prandia_, for its being so
vulgar. But eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, as usually, it is no
despicable _Sallet_. There is a _Beet_ growing near the Sea, which is
the most delicate of all. The Roots of the _Red Beet_, pared into thin
Slices and Circles, are by the _French_ and _Italians_ contriv'd into
curious Figures to adorn their _Sallets_.


_6_. Blite, _Blitum_; English _Mercury_, or (as our Country House wives
call it) _All-good_, the gentle _Turiones_, and Tops may be eaten as
_Sparagus_, or sodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, much
us'd in _Spain_ and _Italy_; but besides its humidity and detersive
Nature, 'tis _Insipid_ enough.


7. Borrage, _Borrago_ (_Gaudia semper ago_) hot and kindly moist,
purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleasant Flavour:
The tender Leaves, and Flowers especially, may be eaten in Composition;
but above all, the Sprigs in _Wine_, like those of _Baum_, are of known
Vertue to revive the _Hypochondriac_, and chear the hard Student. See
_Bugloss_.


8. Brooklime, _Anagallis aquatica_; moderately hot and moist, prevalent
in the _Scorbute_, and _Stone_.


9. Bugloss, _Buglossum_; in mature much like _Borrage_, yet something
more astringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatly
restorative, being Conserv'd: And for the rest, so much commended by
_Averroes_; that for its effects, cherishing the Spirits, justly call'd
_Euphrosynum_; Nay, some will have it the _Nepenthes_ of _Homer_: But
indeed, what we now call _Bugloss_, was not that of the Ancients, but
rather _Borrage_, for the like Virtue named _Corrago_.


Burnet, See _Pimpinella_.


10. Buds, _Gemmae, Turiones_; the first Rudiments and Tops of most
_Sallet_-Plants, preferrable to all other less tender Parts; such as
_Ashen-Keys, Broom-buds_, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of _Capers_,
esteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent against the _Spleen_ and
_Scurvy_; and being _Pickl'd_, are sprinkl'd among the _Sallets_, or
eaten by themselves.


11. Cabbage, _Brassica_ (and its several kinds) _Pompey's_ beloved Dish,
so highly celebrated by old [15]_Cato_, _Pythagoras_, and _Chrysippus_
the Physician (as the only _Panacea_) is not so generally magnify'd
by the rest of Doctors, as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice;
yet _Loosening_ if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, _Astringent_,
according to _C. Celsus_; and therefore seldom eaten raw, excepting
by the _Dutch_. The _Cymae_, or Sprouts rather of the _Cole_ are very
delicate, so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. In
raising this _Plant_ great care is to be had of the Seed. The best comes
from _Denmark_ and _Russia_, especially the _Cauly-flower_, (anciently
unknown) or from _Aleppo_. Of the _French_, the _Pancaliere a la large
Coste_, the white, large and ponderous are to be chosen; and so the
_Cauly-flower_: After boiling some steep them in Milk, and seethe them
again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little _Nitre_. The _Broccoli_
from _Naples_, perhaps the _Halmyridia_ of _Pliny_ (or _Athenaeus_
rather) _Capiata marina_ & _florida_, our _Sea-keele_ (the ancient
_Crambe_) and growing on our Coast, are very delicate, as are the
_Savoys_, commended for being not so rank, but agreeable to most
_Palates_, and of better Nourishment: In general, _Cabbages_ are thought
to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have them
noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the _Cauly-flower_ rather: But
whilst the Learned are not agreed about it, _Theophrastus_ affirms the
contrary, and _Pliny_ commends the Juice raw, with a little _Honey_, for
the moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, _Cabbage_
('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach,
and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we
read the Ancients had for them, calling them _Divine_, and Swearing,
_per Brassicam_. 'Tis scarce an hundred Years since we first had
_Cabbages_ out of _Holland_. Sir _Anth. Ashley_ of _Wiburg St. Giles_
in _Dorsetshire_, being (as I am told) the first who planted them in
_England_.


12. Cardon, See _Artichaux_.


13. Carrots, _Dauci_, or _Pastinaca Sativa_; temperately warm and dry,
Spicy; the best are yellow, very nourishing; let them be rais'd in
Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy.


14. Chervile, _Chaerophyllum, Myrrhis_; The sweet aromatick _Spanish
Chervile_, moderately hot and dry: The tender _Cimae_, and Tops, with
other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our _Sallets_, (as long as they
may be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The
_Roots_ are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons:
This (as likewise _Spinach_) is us'd in _Tarts_, and serves alone for
divers Sauces.


Cibbols.   \
Cives.     / Vide Onions, _Schoenopraesson_.


15. Clary, _Horminum_, when tender not to be rejected, and in _Omlets_,
made up with _Cream_, fried in sweet _Butter_, are eaten with _Sugar_,
Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_.


16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_,
are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages.


17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Tops
and Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with other
Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ call
them _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_.


18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_.


19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: But
above all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the
torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect against
the _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_,
and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_
being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the
_Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_,
proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees,
and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little.


20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved
_Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpen
the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c._ if rightly prepar'd; that
is, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice,
in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_,
too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste from
a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in
thin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity,
macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others
prepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress them
with very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of
_Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (and
indeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retaining
their Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothing
remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the
_Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and
_Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth is
greatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without the
least damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since
_Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being
accounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that in
the _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it a
raw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd in
White-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriated
with the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter.


21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_
are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Spring
till _June_.


22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters,
to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, and
little inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-People
eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife
_Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_.


23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho'
otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_,
are excellent for the _Scorbute_.


Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near
_Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by
Rustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots,
or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing.


24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful both
to the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho'
the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in
_Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most
sovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently
wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_.


25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, and
tenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold,
profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructions
of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in
Composition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent being
boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, and
the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_.


Eschalot. See _Onions_.


26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick,
hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain;
especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be
peel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts and
Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_,
and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into
Composition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call
_Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, which
sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out,
as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_.


27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ and
Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their
_Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alone
in their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_,
sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'd
in _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange,
Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some of
them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome
_Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c.


28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_
and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with
almost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to help
Conception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (by
which it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yet
think it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in
_Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst we
absolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of its
intolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that the
eating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as had
committed the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats,
nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the
Dish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler
_Roccombo_.

_Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its
fierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_.


Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_.


29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in
_Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast,
and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_.


30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for
_Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eaten
raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: They
are _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions.


31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran,
Mary-gold_, &c. as all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in
_Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalent
against Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Names
of _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, than
the tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, are
by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients;
communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy.


32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many Medicinal
Properties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by Country
People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.


33. Leeks, and _Cibbols, Porrum_; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since
_Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eat
them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to
the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender
and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See
_Onion_.


34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_,
(to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of
its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principal
Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and
Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem
with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and
enobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_.

It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet
less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in
Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites
Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates
Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals,
_Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was)
from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the
most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients
called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great
[20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness
to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to
this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor
[21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other
Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to
say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_.
How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells
himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and
concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In
a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_
store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome
to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual
_Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not
so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_,
or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported
to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture
of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our
Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly
Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_;
for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of
_Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade,
Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all
the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or
_Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf,
Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of
the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that
besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest,
there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up
to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and
indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant
_Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd
from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and
taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally
to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of.


35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_,
&c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or
bitter. See _Orange_.


36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the
_Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd,
be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by
the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvae folium
Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_
and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table:
The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvae salubres corpori_,
approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_,
by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than
_Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_,
that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but
by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_,
tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with
_Butter_.


Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See
_Blitum_.


37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho'
an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy
and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and
well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the
noblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think
our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet
under the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially they
were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for
_Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours.

There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly
Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they
drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all
dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been
accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten
in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as
harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with
_Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with
a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to
commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely
cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo.
Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary
_Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe
Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are
very delicate.


38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and
warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach,
and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the
_Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone
(as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little
_Sugar_.


39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terrae_, by _Porphyry
Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_
Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French,
Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as
some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten
crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to
order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the
very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable
only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen,
they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally
reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without
cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest
Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole
Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Caesarian
Tables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Broma theon], a Dainty fit for
the _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they
have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_
deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annaeus Serenus_, and
several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the
same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of
this suspicious Dainty) _Quae voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who
indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats
_Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his
Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution,
[Greek: Bare pnigoenta muketon], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenaeus_
reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three
Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient
warning.

Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about
_London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we
send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_,
and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl,
and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_
purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell,
and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord
_Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and
doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these
rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves
insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or
_Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down.
But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage
none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all
concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and
referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other
_Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr.
_Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and
corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in
deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less
pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich,
airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of
about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round
and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated
in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or
Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce,
they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their
Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed
_Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tells
us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and
compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle
it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in
_France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat is
in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings
and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three
Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other
Experiments.


40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the
Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of
_Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to
quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling
heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable
_Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aids
Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the
most noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw
_Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In
_Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with
the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter.


_Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_.


41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the
Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some
eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other
Herbs.

42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of
_Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd
eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd.
Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own
them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd,
they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut
Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to
offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration.
In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable
only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some
commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in
Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold
_Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and
_Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of
_Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or
two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing
the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they
frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only
season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man,
with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented
Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in
[37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the
_Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_
among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as
whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were
ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them.
Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as
a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which
some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so
highly magnify them.


43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set
over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than
their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender
Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in
Pottage. See _Blitum_.


44. Orange, _Arantiae_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling,
and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists
Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_
being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute,
cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best
_succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and
_Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the
Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which
impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon.


45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it
self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having
something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the
_Turnep_.


46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning
to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_,
enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_.


47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd
Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic
Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for
being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such