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A Narrative of a Nine Months` Residence in New Zealand in 1827
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protecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired our
principles, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men like
us, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, or
desert a friend in the hour of danger.

At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace,
which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could have
been expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girls
approached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicely
cooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they set
down before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recent
exploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; he
repeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had been
sent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the New
Zealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have again
eaten and drank with them.

Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of this
affair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part of
the Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescued
a mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly,
their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have white
people settle amongst them.

About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony,
which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have no
doubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For some
days we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one of
their chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with the
chiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war with
the tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of the
principal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish,
nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs!

I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, with
several chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the offices
of the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinals
and persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). These
chiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, on
approaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing and
scraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion of
pork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they of
course are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animal
creation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were old
and tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and in
many places would not come off.

There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal,
which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the whole
of that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feast
every day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances,
the dogs being the greatest pests they have.





CHAPTER XLII.

WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES.


One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges of
musketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; but
I soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absent
about two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were now
returning successful.

I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it in
the light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the real
object was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, they
had been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder,
human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and sham
fight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo of
spoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children,
torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves of
their conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, others
looked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected.

The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surrounded
them, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tears
over them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with the
male prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some
"titbits," which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore,
in order to regale particular friends and favourites!

They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art of
preparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenance
nor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of a
distinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of our
people had known him well, and several of his near relations were
present: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling of
humanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with great
satisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and red
ribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles,
and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero's
house; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect with
approval and condescension.

The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, in
which ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect and
devotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatred
towards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warrior
chiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their first
spoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of the
spoils of the chase to their aged dam.

In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, and
twenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstance
for the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had been
killed; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadful
slaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act of
cruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounter
when I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presence
might be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result with
as much firmness as I was master of.

[Illustration: Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands.]





CHAPTER XLIII.

VISITS OF WHALERS.


Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, from
London, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been living
here, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many others
would have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and a
dread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here no
representatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are often
involved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government support
has also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring going
on to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidable
expenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, the
thoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they are
under no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputes
with the natives, but with each other, which eventually have proved
equally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vast
importance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it must
be well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home.

We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other of
their powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with a
British garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. They
always expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I have
seen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure.
George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer than
Port Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are much
better than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you English
live amongst them in preference to us."

The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that period
she never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay,
and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through the
Sandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the Pacific
Ocean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at length
accomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home to
England round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off this
port.

For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this has
been the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here,
surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels,
land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and on
shore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility of
wooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them to
run the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious and
barbarous people.

It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have the
effect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of ships
touching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such an
expectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections,
look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; and
regard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with the
spiritual interests of "their flock," as they term the inhabitants,
though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting.

They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg for
the benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that much
sympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of one
excites the contempt and disgust of the other.

The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately from
Wahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of a
British consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of the
natives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and of
the excellent effects produced by this representation of our Government
Captain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours were
crowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning to
appear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding into
industrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity were
spreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is not
nearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as New
Zealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of those
ships who have conversed with me on the subject.

It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, who
have been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse and
carrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of that
period, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance of
which occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with a
serious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished to
purchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange for
one, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in the
way of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass a
doubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about the
price given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course,
refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified when
he was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a stroll
round the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white man
he met, but everywhere with equally bad success.




CHAPTER XLIV.

VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS.


When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island,
who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leave
them upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement,
Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possible
to find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, that
parents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferings
from famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion,
received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabited
spot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance excited
a great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. They
appeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hair
was unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached below
the waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal their
faces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea have
discovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as this
mass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the most
striking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils.

These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatly
when they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism had
reached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them,
and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair in
which they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, and
ran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristic
cunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them still
more cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about to
commence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages),
evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparent
pusillanimity.

After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scene
with them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in the
nature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities of
observing. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to play
occasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest dislike
to it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying it
was not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordant
playing that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however,
a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civilly
driving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. But
when I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantly
upon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancing
most furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keep
their long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, they
quickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearly
frantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on the
floor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed
(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; but
these two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree.





CHAPTER XLV.

THE DEATH OF HONGI.


We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of the
celebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened a
meeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach the
spot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the men
he had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous and
desperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained with
various enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he should
die quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterious
silence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. I
questioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatest
solemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all I
could obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a few
minutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz., our
friend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as our
patron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful around
him, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled.

The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage and
war-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics of
Hongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greater
number of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditary
possessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet his
undaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles,
made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him that
which is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number of
slaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than had
ever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and this
is considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftain
can show towards another.





CHAPTER XLVI.

A TRIBAL CONFLICT.


Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and my
friend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I,
being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country,
determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walk
across the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I was
preparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of events
occurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed and
devastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the state
of security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myself
beset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have been
a place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island.

Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us,
though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usual
among savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place.

By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily the
war-cry is raised among these turbulent savages.

Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsome
young man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with a
captain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs.
Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into the
interior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, he
not only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claim
to, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. The
right owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent,
over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set them
all at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as his
tribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogs
in triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Finding
words were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, one
of the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed from
behind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came could
only be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. His
companions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and the
fray becoming general, seven more lives were lost.

When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyone
flew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a general
favourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here," they exclaimed,
"is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior related
to and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and a
nephew of the great Shulitea." The cry for blood and revenge was
universal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, I
was much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one of
our particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I had
taken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full of
health and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thus
fatally.

The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the minds
of his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friends
and relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he had
fallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as a
degradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefs
assembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and none
appeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who,
with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party,
to revenge the insult which had been offered them.

The night before they started on this expedition, George spent the
evening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did not
at all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearest
relation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopes
of being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrain
the impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would be
the first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to my
remembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banish
my forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in all
probability be fulfilled.

Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on their
mission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted,
arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and that
night no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yelling
of women, and the shrieks of slaves.

The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offending
party had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of their
friend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they had
contented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property their
enemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage was
considered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, laden
with spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began to
take place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out in
every quarter of the camp.

George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to be
dissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of his
possessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over every
other tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable,
also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight,
they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined to
create a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of the
pleasures or the trophies of a combat.

Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accident
of a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and general
appeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, and
each party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. One
of George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busily
engaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description being
strewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one of
George's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding the
management of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentally
discharged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ball
passing through both their bodies.

The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily be
conceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who had
been disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensible
motive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could be
explained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name of
Moo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: each
party ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders,
and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place.

Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which broke
both his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him in
their arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as it
was difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had been
the onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of the
contest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out in
this unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struck
him on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a week
had passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of his
friends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero:
finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totally
unable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave him
to his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escape
while they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off his
mantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting his
friends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he received
his death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a general
flight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time,
great numbers had fallen on both sides.





CHAPTER XLVII.

THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES.


This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled all
the Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of the
injury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerable
sufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, rather
than to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violent
sobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scattered
about, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply with
knives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard but
yelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood!

But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deaths
which had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstanding
my sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a most
humane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English;
the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for I
felt that I stood in a situation of great danger.

I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, of
plundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as a
part of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him,
and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we also
should be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides,
I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all my
goods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs who
had been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in what
light they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the general
tranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, and
which would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alone
without fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and to
engage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made the
proposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, they
ran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threats
induce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all the
property I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler.

For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up to
grief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in an
agony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholy
myself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, and
low spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion.

At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail of
war canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What their
intentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, the
ships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreast
of us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped,
and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left the
main body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief persons
of the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harm
to any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, who
were going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, after
making a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and we
accompanied them.

Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse,
we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were not
hostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we were
determined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, for
George's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landed
with us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and that
they were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, and
carrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friends
of George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savage
dancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the proper
person was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thought
the affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made great
exertions "to keep the peace," and finally, by force of argument,
succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was to
succeed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until the
time of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should be
completed.





CHAPTER XLVIII.

DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS.


After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign to
Rivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the nature
of my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over to
Hokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attempting
it; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order to
increase his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have here
their price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct)
that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, who
would always protect rather than molest every European; but that the
country being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the late
events, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of such
times to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them,
I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up your
spirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, and
carry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full of
powder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn." He also proposed, as he
himself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in the
interior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over the
late tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my way
with him, in his own canoe.

Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I took
leave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage.
I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going to
take final leave of several native families, with whom I had been on
terms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received many
proofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should never
meet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the family
of poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grief
for the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than ever
of his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, had
rivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the time
she heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangle
herself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcely
refrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get all
she could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "You
know," she continued, "you promised him that you would send him a
handsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; and
cannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother Kiney
Kiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George would
wish that his brother should have his new musket." This speech I felt
quite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, I
promised that I would send the musket for her second son; which
declaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerably
abated the violence of her grief.

Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe,
accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he had
mentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteau
and my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with a
small basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy,
which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day broke
around us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night were
just rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of the
mountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks and
stray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind were
strange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty as
were now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. I
contrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have to
encounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed with
conquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even a
glance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife,
son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions,
Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning and
the romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely to
contemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, which
seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautiful
double-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so many
wild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of the
former, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionally
amongst them.

At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set their
sail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed to
steer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitary
and perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we then
went on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply of
shell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till the
flood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived at
the Kirikiri about sunset.

I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay,
and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shot
George, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that the
whole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed to
each other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might be
victorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they had
settlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm was
occasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violent
depredations were there being committed; and as this was the very point
of my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious,"
said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christian
brethren of our danger, that we actually gave a _warm piece_ to a native
to carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to our
orders." I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a _warm piece_; he
kicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand;
and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "It
is what _you worldly_ folks call a musket!"

They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meeting
of the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise and
politic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted to
have such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and though
they would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. I
earnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard,
whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country;
but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: one
thing, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, that
they neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safety
engrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguided
creature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godly
people as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, without
scruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as,
"Why do the heathen so furiously rage," etc., etc.

My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was,
that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, to
accompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong to
their establishment I thought might be some protection; but the short
answer of the monosyllable "_No_" soon made me repent having asked it. I
spread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak next
morning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from my
remembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they never
even inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselves
would not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving a
native a _warm piece_ for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoes
were nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrable
roads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundance
of everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to the
needy (and I fully came under that description of character); but finding
them so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, I
refrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted.





CHAPTER XLIX.

THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA.


We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendants
    
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