"Ship, City of Edinburgh,
"Lima, Oct. 20, 1810.
Sir,--

I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to
you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain
Thompson.

Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of
Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape
of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me
an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about
fifty miles to the N.W. At first we were disposed to doubt the
truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from
the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were
so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent.
Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our
cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to
go round.

"I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad
weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the
ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then
relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my
strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of
my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a
second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the
harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as
follows:--First, a large outer bay, with an island at its
entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening,
which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile;
but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large
basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of
the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British
navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top
of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The
natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she
had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the
water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her
cargo--coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron,
standards, etc., were lying on the top, having fallen in when her
decks were consumed.

"The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the
captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port
for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good
Hope.

"Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered
from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of
Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I
found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of
service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will
admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good
purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival.
The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight
theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great
number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated
themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and
who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into
the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged
a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather
slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as
he was busy.

"The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the
Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this
treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few
minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the
captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his
fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he
landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece,
and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship,
Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on
board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter
deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and
fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they
all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran
wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a
few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The
boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for
several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood,
when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by
an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces;
that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who
allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the
deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in
cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and
song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of
gratitude to their god.

"Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor
wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain,
and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered
them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he
ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt
obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came
down he received them with much civility, and told them he would
take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and
sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on
shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view
was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As
soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched
towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran
screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by
tears and entreaties saved her life.

"The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too
shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the
time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight,
and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received
Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed
him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being
treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot
along with the others.

"I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write
about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense
of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my
power, which I suppose may be of some use.

"I am, Sir,
"Your obedient humble servant,
"ALEXANDER BERRY."

Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, and
the horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartial
account; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exonerated
the natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have held
with several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and from
information I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captain
himself was the most in fault.

[Illustration: Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre.]

He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a native
chief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel and
impolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burning
with a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all his
friends to the commission of that bloody massacre.




CHAPTER XII.

THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA.


The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion;
and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem to
wish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kind
and friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement which
they have always received from us after a treacherous action, has proved
to them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and as
they are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem to
have come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if they
may not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to their
own interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of a
European vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction.

They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much of
their native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world,
is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constant
intercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leaves
behind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain the
largest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, by
half adopting the European costume. Those who are living in the
retirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance of
manner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our rough
sailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing from
one of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red or
checked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In some
cases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them,
from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thus
equipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, each
highly delighted with her gaudy habiliments.

Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the general
place of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into this
bay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within a
quarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimes
as many as twelve or thirteen.

The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a mile
in extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing a
fine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, so
that boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst the
rushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at first
landing is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them are
of English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally the
dwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that it
would be difficult to guess to what order of society they belonged
previous to their being transplanted amongst these savages.

I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came out
in the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remain
at Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned with
success, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them.

Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on and
instructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Here
the smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded by
curious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work,
and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysterious
labours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here is
heard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planks
appear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmen
interfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career,
without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home.

But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless and
dangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in the
estimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers," most of
whom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes,
for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have been
hanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyage
they had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading a
mean and miserable life amongst the natives.

There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whose
downcast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from New
South Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt by
all classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their state
of degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle,
unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bay
of Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they prove
themselves most dangerous neighbours.

My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimate
friend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, in
consequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while his
vessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; and
from his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances of
all whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned.

On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of my
friend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea[4] (or King George, as he styled
himself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of the
district where we were. We all felt grateful to him for his
manifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious of
enjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the first
chief who offered protection to "the white people," and he has never been
known to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkable
instance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation,
took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here.

The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by some
accident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This fine
vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, and
the crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder and
destruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance,
hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. But
King George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this party
placed himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I was
informed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaring
that "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party were
destroyed," he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protecting
the strangers and their property:--

"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think only
of what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed,
are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of the
reproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I am
situated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite the
white men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; they
come; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. King
George, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one of
their ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he _must_
assist them; which he _will_ do, and defend them against everyone who
shall attempt to injure them." In consequence of this speech, and his
exertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who had
collected for that purpose.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 4: The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or King
George, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed in
a fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix.)]




CHAPTER XIII.

MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS.


This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelings
of honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead to
the most happy results. From the length of time these people have been
known to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changes
would have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures;
but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutive
proportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, their
canoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigator
described them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them in
preference to their own; still their work is not better done. The only
material change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare.

The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature of
firearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to become
possessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts to
obtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, ended
in their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to create
commodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets.
Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for their
own use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms.
Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves of
those weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and as
they are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feel
convinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us,
for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard of
a single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, though
they are often grossly insulted.

In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect.
The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war;
every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weapons
which give him such a decided superiority over those who have only their
native implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The value
attached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them,
will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours,
or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the New
Zealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk of
offending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimable
commodities.




CHAPTER XIV.

A MISSION SETTLEMENT.


A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side,
to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter of
introduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, with
a delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them,
the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands,
reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have given
this spot is "Marsden Vale." They very soon gave us to understand they
did not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality
(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. The
object of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained,
and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as it
is now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man of
common sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but little
benefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, if
his mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here;
and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or induce
them to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason.

Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater part
of them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom the
benevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in order
to teach the natives the importance of _different trades_--a most
judicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of all
missions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of these
athletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting for
themselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to know
and to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, and
useful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for services
rendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, _these_
missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner as
possible, the nature of revealed religion!

In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade till
he has every comfort around him--his house finished, his garden fenced,
and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages.
This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a few
ragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their own
language--the English tongue being forbidden; and when these children
return to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminate
and useless.

I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midst
of a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of our
holy redemption--perplexing his own brains, as well as those of his
auditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How much
better would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a piece
of iron, or to make a nail!

What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in which
they treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on the
outside of their stockade fence.

On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily at
us. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and their
delight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of their
Christian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never to
reenter.




CHAPTER XV.

A VISIT FROM HONGI.


A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busily
employed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on a
sudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work and
ran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket and
cartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, and
all seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of all
these war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief men
were crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he was
considered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperate
ambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receive
him under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proof
of how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving.

This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I had
long had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds having
often been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his own
country he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year
1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by having
a personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from His
Majesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit of
chain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing these
arms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himself
as impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare and
destruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friends
called him "a god," and his enemies feared him as "a devil." Last year,
Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteen
years previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had long
determined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he always
styled himself "the friend of the English." After this, he removed his
residence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this his
last battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, his
slaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His people
were now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proof
against shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in the
breast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. His
companions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning him
after he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind.

His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously;
Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fall
immediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, when
he roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs,
who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this,
paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, all
that he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; they
turned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribe
were destroyed.




CHAPTER XVI.

INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR.


He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuring
an interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to this
celebrated conqueror.

We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast.
The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay,
surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mute
contemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi,
not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound being
toboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richly
ornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaves
were unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemed
to realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wanderer
Ulysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, and
paid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignified
composure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated;
but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have been
the last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed and
cruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated in
conversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed,
demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibit
him under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permitted
to sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowed
so to do, on account of his taboo.

He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure,
leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered with
long, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. He
was altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made a
sketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we were
newcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, our
opinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and he
seemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced a
bottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him with
a few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him.

We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in which
was placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself close
to him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteen
years of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatest
dexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, with
which she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in a
giving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately,
I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it to
him, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability and
friendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinary
family, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, we
returned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All the
natives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we were
equally gratified by their hospitality.




CHAPTER XVII.

A MAORI WELCOME.


I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paid
to King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs,
advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behind
them; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in the
air. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensed
with on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to his
huts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriors
squatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediate
protection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother of
George, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybil
by the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect and
caution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began,
with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixed
upon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony or
friendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and as
Hongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so much
greater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. This
woeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears;
and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soon
in the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether,
was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the nature
of the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect all
present. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring the
incurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him,
and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recounted
some of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring the
number of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamenting
that the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemed
to affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quite
exhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect and
approbation.

This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King George
had prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets of
hot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiled
their appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour to
the feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted a
long while, and with which they concluded the evening.

The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the New
Zealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of their
movements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies a
dance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch of
frenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, and
fill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songs
and dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the most
popular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed in
the dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all those
horrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriors
themselves.

The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds I
had ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribes
parting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties,
each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting their
flesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each is
armed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable a
prize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tears
and blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large and
richly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure,
I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, King
George and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; and
that it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, that
induced them to treat him with such respect and homage.




CHAPTER XVIII.

EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR.


I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in the
good opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safe
amongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through this
country; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance of
birds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air--many
of them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc., cover
the various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almost
every part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yielding
the natives their principal article of food, and the latter their
clothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause of
their ferocity and propensity to cannibalism.

In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wild
animals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter in
overcoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in the
use of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would never
be so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for his
subsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) had
many opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with the
arrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vast
continent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constant
practice, an equal dexterity with the _lassoo_, which those who have not
witnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, while
handling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it is
his darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of his
aim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact to
several Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and they
all informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aim
would be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contend
with. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiring
skill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, and
taking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, the
screws are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to the
great surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pestering
the Europeans by bringing them _sick_ muskets (as they call them) to look
at, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make them
well again." They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man does
not know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it.




CHAPTER XIX.

ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN.


On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had to
return to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under a
promise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, that
our savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reach
the Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It at
length became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, rendered
further advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for the
night, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was best
to be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, it
being low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reached
the banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through the
slippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a fire
made in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose of
procuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelter
or dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) to
pass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort of
bivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated the
water began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vain
for a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded by
rushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued,
we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fog
for curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake,
and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us a
breakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, and
they all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had some
biscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders of
the feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we left
them, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, and
took their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proof
to me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded,
amongst these people.




CHAPTER XX.

LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA.


About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it being
Sunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all their
endeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of the
urgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, who
was with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continued
our journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that we
now had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The next
day, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our old
friends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemed
highly delighted at our return.

We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go to
Tongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand till
her return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of the
island we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it became
known to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefs
came and offered us their protection; and each would have built us a