RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.
As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, great
exertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoes
pulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, a
compliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon came
alongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with Captain
Kent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round and
shook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself down
upon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the first
on board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowded
with them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chains
and bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfect
good humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances.

I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was going
to visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney so
much pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of them
together, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in their
proportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident that
brought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me.

I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with the
critical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger men
than ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular,
and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all their
lives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of the
American Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in a
profusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight and
lank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun and
gaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious.

I have known Indians in America from the north to the south--the
miserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, and
the gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexions
they are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with their
different latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly the
same, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly the
same, although at the two extremes of America; while those living between
the equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these South
Sea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not of
the same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indian
from north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in the
extreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment the
Indian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became an
idiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmost
aversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink," and very often severely
take us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasing
propensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but both
nations are equally fond of tobacco.

The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savages
was armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch box
buckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those who
had fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans,
covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secure
place in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's account
of the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which has
taken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would have
terrified a whole village.

As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased to
such a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion,
they gave us "a dance of welcome," standing on one spot, and stamping so
furiously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, which
our lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began each
man proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable among
themselves.

We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where two
chiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of a
considerable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admitting
them into the cabin, etc., and it had the effect of lessening the noise,
and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continued
on deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and they
were the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. They
were well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They were
accustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business with
them; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and the
captain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. They
were clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party at
supper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, who
both behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educated
gentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated them
into the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they would
be really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed."

The next day we received a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Butler, English
people, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading,
and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us,
and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll through
the village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddled
together without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of every
description were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many places
actually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, with
a doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at this
season of the year the greater part of the population prefer living in
the open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses.

I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly reminded
me of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration of
character and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me so
appalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted,
and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I was
more shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character of
the New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, the
coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completely
sickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back to
Mr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horrid
catastrophe.

That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, a
chief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of ground
planted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogs
committing depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with the
appearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to an
anchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs to
ramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In the
midst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. The
result was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blow
on the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, and
the body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed.

It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach for
that purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full two
hundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, and
while we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the native
chiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children,
and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to the
boat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. They
then returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon their
backs as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care not
to shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy so
lately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one of
their carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to have
made them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow had
so lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature.

We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people did
not diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourly
coming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, and
the report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increased
their desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious to
make themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assisting
the steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, others
brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any
excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion
attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them.
They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and
the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it
off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at
the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is
proved against them, their heads are cut off!




CHAPTER III.

A RAMBLE ASHORE.


On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a
large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification
on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a
fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water,
and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like
spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always
should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never
know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the
right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of
cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill,
I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the
inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes,
kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold
background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to
their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural
barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from
their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which,
meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering
through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they
empty themselves into the Hokianga river.

Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I
felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The
regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on
their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the
South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of
labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the
village of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres of
cultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked and
cleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together with
their limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I look
upon as truly astonishing.

The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents a
great deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the planter
a good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as the
ground is finished, and the seed sown, it is _tabooed,_ that, is rendered
sacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trample
over or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom and
utility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, however
useful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenience
to a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not use
the greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into a
serious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been the
case with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purpose
of inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a little
boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a
fish-hook from us--a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as
we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much
regard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of great
importance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top
of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Our
interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward,
and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desired
us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the
trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not
make out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then
undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which
process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are
permitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that,
had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should
certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a
question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a
sufficient excuse for our offence.

The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing
several hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified
by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. The
natives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warrior
Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with
great loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited our
admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill.
Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. We
entered several of their habitations, and found all their property
exposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prize
above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery
have they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming
at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their
dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations
of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very
much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehouses
are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed
or consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and
ornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them,
which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at
groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the
art of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders
in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I
have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians.

Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rude
people. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, and
their canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed upon
them.

Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of green
flax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hang
these baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thus
a village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full of
sticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan,
however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of their
eatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of the
hogs and dogs.

In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, some
having neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. One
house which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages to
Port Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had a
high door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate room
was constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He had
likewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highly
polished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of our
walk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sitting
sunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. I
remarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeble
limbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether he
remembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected Captain
Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's
crew; and from other information which I received I believe his assertion
to have been correct.[3]

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 3: Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed in
the Appendix.]




CHAPTER IV.

THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO.


As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot where
they intended to establish their settlement, and it being several miles
up the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain's
agreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind,
about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could with
safety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river are
composed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of them
covered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation is
to be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe,
we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite a
small island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had to
remain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious and
interesting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely covered
with storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was so
contrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect a
landing; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethought
displayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, but
could not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as to
render the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surprise
and satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colony
of our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in this
savage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of Port
Jackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Several
vessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built,
launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred and
fifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks!

On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen have
called it, "Deptford," I was greatly delighted with the appearance of
order, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses,
dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and every
department seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilised
country. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the great
delight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observing
the progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand,"
and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with my
idea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can more
completely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In it
are practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to the
busy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia of
knowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpenter
create so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder and
delight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, it
excites his astonishment and emulation.

The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantly
crowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all the
chiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work that
any annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged as
a personal affront.




CHAPTER V.

JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS.


Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myself
having determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. An
intelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany us
himself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We accepted
the chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bear
us company.

November 7.--We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head of
the river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling about
eight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedingly
narrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a party
of men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the New
Zealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by the
officers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain by
themselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed in
cutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. How
far they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as these
enterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could not
be expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the one
at Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthy
merchants of New South Wales.

As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were more
numerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has a
splendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have just
described. He had taken these industrious men under his especial
protection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind in
his territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all the
neighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of their
exertions.

Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon his
land, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quite
the appearance of a civilised colony.

Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached to
the water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loads
each was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two English
stations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all in
high spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives had
distributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with both
skill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords or
ropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soon
twist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings,
with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, and
set off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them.




CHAPTER VI.

MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE.


We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not
penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close
together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves
through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected
this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill.
The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by
cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our
bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the
agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times
they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The
chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe
through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such
places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon.

In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone,
who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small,
cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding
strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us.
He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village
belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must
there pass the night.

[Illustration: Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.]

We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of
friendship), and parted.

Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull,
cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country;
but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they
were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute
these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care
of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed,
consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their
liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us.
We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet
from a recent and heavy shower.




CHAPTER VII.

A MAORI VILLAGE.


The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one
of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time
reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees
lying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be a
mighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village:
a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, which
doubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. As
the village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, we
sat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate its
appearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream,
and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, just
touching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape;
and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave the
woods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrown
across the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect.

As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout of
welcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. They
carried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat down
to gaze at and admire us.

As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked our
baggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable and
glittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators,
and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud and
long exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger in
their land," and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a little
alarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I found
my fears had been groundless.

Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty young
savages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome,
notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity of
their looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group,
handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded with
ball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, or
hatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by way
of ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, and
he will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wish
himself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for after
admiring everything we had brought with us (more especially our
fowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a little
tobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been prepared
for our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; after
which they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured of
its safety.

It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowded
into a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, after
our supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company as
possible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying this
might be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesque
appearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finer
study of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athletic
forms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbs
exposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous by
being tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue;
their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixed
upon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intense
curiosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master of
myself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a social
pipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and I
then stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering and
smoke.

But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneous
attack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies,
which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise,
that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smoke
from the fire or pipes drive them away.




CHAPTER VIII.

TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST.


Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded on
our journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramble
through, and this part we found considerably worse than that we had
traversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in all
directions, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in order
to prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twining
from tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and while
we were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road,
our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had so
completely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, and
dived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while we
were panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. The
climbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of sky
was to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty,
their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughout
the forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom.

After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from the
wood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as the
eye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us,
and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, one
after the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than a
foot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the natives
invariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel no
inconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path,
it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, ever
traverses this country, and _his_ track cannot be mistaken, since none
ever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in some
places (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a gutter
more than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner;
unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionally
gave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus.
Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay of
Islands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at the
Kerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement.

[Illustration: Mission Station, Kerikeri.]




CHAPTER IX.

THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI.


We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we saw
was of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community we
were with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along under
immense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition;
sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with red
ochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the road
was tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, for
we came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreaths
of white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boarded
houses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays of
the setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills,
lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It is
impossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene so
similar to those I had left behind me.

According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warn
the inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged our
dresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. As
the report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts came
running out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beings
they belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the New
Zealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habited
in the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, have
no taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human forms
under a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jackets
reaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great black
horn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-way
over their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, and
each head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet!

These half-converted, or, rather, half-_covered_, youths, after rubbing
noses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings of
their masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their own
body, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceeded
with confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness and
comfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting my
letter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a private
inspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "to
stay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellent
grocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of the
mission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I could
hear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking
(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at the
Antipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were no
inquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy,
such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roof
in such a savage country as this!

The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the very
hearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was an
excellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night;
but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent us
their boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of about
twenty-five miles.

As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded with
natives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable and
dangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others just
above the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. After
experiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach about
midnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelter
in his hut.




CHAPTER X.

THE BAY OF ISLANDS.


In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. The
Indian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research;
which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vessels
under the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated the
circumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded by
lofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full of
lovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it;
added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptying
themselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romantic
islands all covered with perpetual verdure.

It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where the
illustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Some
unhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed on
both sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon with
horror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterprise
of the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interesting
islanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it was
quite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of Port
Jackson.




CHAPTER XI.

THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD."


Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, the
character of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it was
necessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up,
and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefs
had in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security,
then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Too
often had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly for
their treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though they
attained their object, they were as completely punished for their
perfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of a
magazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives were
destroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves the
vengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long period
afterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry's
letter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interesting
event, is here inserted:--